Whirlpool Dryer Replace Thermostat & Thermal Fuse #279816

Whirlpool Dryer Replace Thermostat & Thermal Fuse #279816


repair clinic encourages you to perform
this procedure safely in this video we will show one or more
of these icons to alert you when to use caution as with any repair be sure you’ve unplugged
the appliance before beginning your first step is to remove the back
panel disconnect the wire from the old high
limit thermostat then detach the thermostat from the
heating element terminal next disconnect the wires to the old
thermal fuse and remove the mounting screw to release the fuse itself you’re now ready to install the new high
limit thermostat infuse position the new thermostat and secure
it with the two screws reconnect the wire to the top terminal
on the thermostat and use the provided jumper wire to
connect the thermostat to the heating element next install the new thermal fuse by
securing it with the mounting screw and reconnect the wires replace the back panel and plug the appliance back in to make
sure it’s functioning properly

75 thoughts on “Whirlpool Dryer Replace Thermostat & Thermal Fuse #279816

  1. Thermal fuse is what i need… I bypassed it just for a sec to see if the heating element would heat up and sure enough. 🙂

  2. Incredibly helpful and it's even MORE helpful that you list the part number and where I can purchase it, which I just did after paying a ton for the element from Sears. That won't happen again!

  3. One misleading aspect of this video is that what it calls the "thermal fuse" is generally called a "thermal cut-off." The thermal fuse is a little oblong white piece that is located near where the hot air is vented out of the unit. Since this video showed the piece that I knew was broken (the thermal cut-off) and called it a thermal fuse, I ordered the wrong part and had to go to the trouble of returning it and ordering the correct part, the combo thermostat/thermal cut-off #279816.

  4. Thanks for the comment, we appreciate it. I apologize for the confusion regarding your part purchase. Typically the terms thermal fuse and thermal cut-off are used interchangeably and it can be a little confusing. Please do not hesitate to let us know if you need any questions answered in the future.

  5. One red wire goes to the top of the thermostat and the other to the right side element terminal. The orange wire will go on the lower terminal of the thermostat with the new jumper wire. The two wires will need to go together the orange wire will need to be stripped and a new piggyback terminal added to it so both wires can go together on the same bottom terminal of the thermostat.

  6. Your response was very helpful, but one more question…what is a piggyback terminal and how do you add it? Thank you for all of the great information!

  7. A piggy back terminal allows you to attach more than one wire to a terminal. They are very simple and easy to install.

  8. These parts can be tested for continuity. I would suggest heading to the repair help section of our website and using that to help diagnose your problem. I hope this helps!

  9. If the thermostat is the only thing that has gone bad it's no problem to just replace it and not the thermal fuse.

  10. Thanks for sharing this! It definitely was a huge help as the instructions left a little room for (mis)interpretation.

  11. I have an orange wire that leads to the timer that is connected to the original hi-limit thermostat. There is no connection available for that wire on this replacement thermostat. Can I still use it somehow?

  12. My Maytag Bravos steam dryer (model MED6600TQ0) will not start. The display is on but the dryer only clicks and doesn't come on then gives me a F1 error. If I replace the High Limit Thermostat and Thermal fuse will this fix it?

  13. After following these directions, my heater burns too hot, even when set at low settings.  Does this mean I connected the wires incorrectly?

  14. I mistakenly cut the red wire instead of the orange to attach the piggyback.  How do I add the white plastic connector and what is the actual name of that adapter?  Thanks

  15. Can anyone tell me if the high level thermostat has a specific top and bottom that one side must be the jumper wire and the other must be the power wire? I'm not positive if it matters which terminal on the thermostat I should put the jumper on, or if it doesn't matter at all.

  16. I am replacing the heating element in a Whirlpool dryer. Will the old thermostat from a Whirlpool heating element, part # 8565582, fit in the new heating element part #279838?  Or do I need to buy a new thermostat along with the new heating element?

    Thanks.

  17. I got the part to change my high limit thermostat, but it did not come with a jumper wire nor screws.  How can I get these? Or do I need to re-order the part?

  18. Fuse test good. high-limit thermostat bad. Replaced high-limit and did not mark which wire goes where. I know one wire goes to thermal fuse the other goes to heating coils that are attached to high-limit thermostat. Does it matter which is clamped where?

  19. the spades are the same size and the switch can bolt on either way with no indication of whats up or down so my question is does it matter

  20. I entered the model number of my Kenmore dryer (110.64602300)  in your website and was directed to three parts, two of which are installed in this video.  The other is the white thermostat  (2651/279816).  Unfortunately, the only part that fits my dryer is the white thermostat, despite your website saying that they all fit. The high limite thermostat is somewhat similar to mine, but is definitely the wrong part.  And that red jumper wire doesn't even exist on my dryer.  Do you offer any phone support? If not, I'll have to go to an appliance store and buy the parts. Too bad because I was so excited to find this site!

  21. your video is confusing….first you show the removal of the high limit thermostat which has 2 wires…then youm show the replacement and now there are 4 ^&%$ wires….why not explain that little detour there ?

  22. the video is more confusing than it should be. To make it simple for everyone that has the orange wire just do the following. cut the end off the orange wire as closets to the connector as possible. your kit should come with a gold connector, strip and crimp the orange wire onto the gold connector and use the bypass wire provided in your kit to connect both the thermostat to the heating element.

  23. according to Searspartsdirect website this is the kit for my dryer.  but my model has 2 wires connecting to the heating element and 2 wires connecting to the high temperature thermostat.  is this compatible with my model? and if so how should I connect it

  24. You folks left out where to connect the last lead that previously had been on the element, it seems.  Cornfusing!

  25. I totally understood your video and it was extremely helpful; however, I have a white wire with a smaller end left. What do I do with it?

  26. It shows how to replace but doesn't show the test. How to identify if these high-limit thermostat and internal fuse are bad.

  27. I had no heat in my dryer. I purchased a kit and replaced the fuse and it worked, should I still replace the thermostat?

  28. Looks like I have the same question as another guy but I don't see an answer yet…. I replaced the fuse because that's what was blown but did not replace the other part because it was not that easy to get out. Is that going to be a problem? The dryer now heats but seems like it is really really hot but maybe I'm just not used to it.

  29. I just replaced the high limit thermostat of my Whirlpool dryer using this video and now my dryer won't stop during the "cool down" cycle. If you notice, the original thermostat has 3 terminals but the replacement only has two. I did a little research and discovered issue is caused by disconnected orange wire which originally was attached to the 3rd terminal. When i replaced, I just tapped it off. Any idea on what to do with this "orange wire"

  30. I replaced the thermal fuse heating element and hi temp cut off on my kenmore 600 electric dryer and now i have a burning plastic smell coming from the dryer and when I tried to dry a load the dryer was smoking is this something I connected improperly?

  31. When I removed the old thermostat it had an orange wire connected to it that wasn't in your video what should I do with it?

  32. i followed this video to the letter but i noticed when you replaced the High limit thermostat, the smaller wire that you initially pulled off, (to where you now put a jumper wire) has no place to go, am i missing something? And now my dryer won't turn on when i put it on air dry… please help!

  33. How do you know which terminal is which on the thermostat? You know, so you have the correct wires connected to the correct terminals.

  34. Hi! I have an Whirlpool Heavy Duty model LTE6234DQ3, it's washer and dryer at the same time. Had a problem with dryer because it did'nt heat. First i called an electric technician to repare the problem and it did work for few times, then it stopped towork at all. Viewing videos and reading, i put myself to repair it; i have to buy the Thermal Cut-Off Kit Part Number: AP3094224, because i tested both originals sensors and didn't have continuity between it's terminals, means they where bad. But the proble it's the… Disaster the technician did with the wires that i don't understand the correct position. I see them cut and wrapped in tape. I think he changed the position of wires and put to work direct and only with the high sensor untill it burned and stopped to work. I found this: 3 wires comming from de front command panel, one of them (a thin one), it divides in two more, the another two are thick (one of them it's red color and the other it's red with a white line). I need to know the correct position of wires, i think he cut another wire that was before but he changed the conections. Testing with multimeter and putting in the selector the automatic heating (both high and low temperature), i found 235 V between red thick and red-white thick wires, same with red thick and red thin. Combination red-white thick and red-white thin goes to 0,370 V. When i put the selector in high normal temperature (not automatic heating), voltages changes. Red thick and red-white thick goes to 235 V, red thick and red-white thin goes to 140 V, and red-white thick and red-white thin goes to 90 V. What's the correct position i should to put in the sensors? Sorry my english if it's but written, i'm from Venezuela. Greatings! Thanks! P.S.: I proved the next conection: i put the red thick wire to one terminal of the cut off sensor, made a bridge wire between the another terminal of the cut off sensor and one terminal of the high limit sensor, the red thin wire that divides in two, one wirre put in the another terminal of the high limit sensor and the other to the heater resistence, the last red-white thick wire put to the other terminal of the heater resistence. Please help. I don't want to burn it again.

  35. Thank you for showing where the thermal fuse on the heating element.,your video is correct.thanks from got5at12

  36. If the only part that doesn't have continuity is the terminal with the red wire (bottom right) attached to that white piece, does that mean I have to replace the high limit thermostat only? I'm not sure what parts have to be replaced given that particular problem. Please assist.

  37. What gauge is the wiring for the dryer using? My thermostat had melted the wire due to a corrosion issue, and I need to replace a section of it to run it safely.

  38. Whirlpool Dryer #WED5300SQ0
    What are those part number for three thermostats?
    1. Top Right Thermostat (name/part#)
    2. Bottom Right Thermostat (name/part #)
    3. Bottom Left (name/part #)

  39. Hello, I replaced thermofuse # 3977393, but I got confused with the cables conection. Does it matter which cable is conected to each terminal or they have to be in the right circuit polarity?

  40. my whirlpool has both of these at the top of the vent that comes from the burner Nothing at the bottom. There is also a jumper wire, does that go between the fuse and hi limit? the thermal fuse is checked by continuity but what about the hi limit?

  41. Like this dryer, mine doesn't have the 3rd (ORANGE) wire as seen in videos like this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfYnJ8_7VQc or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLZAY1fM6VY) … I've got the tab but not the wire. Any reason?

  42. Several things:
    1) like this machine, mine did not have a 3rd (orange) wire. Most videos show that wire and require the male / female connector jumpers splice.
    2) while I did reset the old (upper) high-limit thermal trip by throwing it on the ground, 15 times before it made, I used it only as a test to prove that that was the only thing holding me back. After installing the new one, threw out the old one.
    3) after all repairs kept the back off and checked cycle times (90 on, 45 off). ** This was after a 5 minute initial warm up in a warm house, on a warm day.
    4) while I did find a good online vendor from another videos referral, I used Cashwell Appliance in High Point and they were able to walk me through some questions, worth the extra money
    5) SCHEMATIC TRAINING ANALYSIS … GREAT Video:
    Dryer not heating up
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCOPR5HNb20&feature=youtu.be

  43. Had problems with clothes being damp after a cycle.≖>allmy.tips/Whirlpool-Dryer?Y25     Bought the Whirlpool 7.0 cu foot dryer and now can enjoy folding warm dry clothing.

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