This video resource will cover the techniques for making a knife. We will be covering the following things: And then I will take you through each of the steps for: Before you start any kind of work in the workshop you want to make sure you are well protected. In this case we have got: If you get burnt put it under water for 20 minutes to get all the heat out of the affected part. But if you take care it shouldn’t happen. The other really important thing to think about is a really intese fire is going to produce a lot of UV light So you will want to keep your hands and arms and face protected. This is an angle grinder. I’ve got 3 different kinds of cutting blades here. This first one is a very fine one which is ideal for making the initial cut in the piece of spring steel. The second one here is a grinding disk and its purpose is to remove the metal to make a form or shape. And the third one is a flat disk. This one is really good for doing some initial polishing. Later on I will show you how to use the linisher, a big flat sanding belt, to give you nice flat surface to your tools. This is a heavy 1.8kg hammer. It is essential for moving metal and flattening it out. This is a planishing hammer which is great for flattening out all the dings and bumps that 1st one will make. You will need both of these. It is important that you match up the tong to the piece of steel you’ve got, so you have a good comfortable grip. This is a car spring, it usually comes from the front of a car. The last thing we are going to need to make our knife is a furnace. What we’ve got here is a gas fired forge, it is a small box forge. That will get us our temperatures we need to make our steel that lovely golden colour that means it is soft enough for us to shape. The next step is to draw out the design you’ve got in mind. When you draw the knife you want to make sure the drawing is life-sized because you are going to cut that out and use it as a template when you get to the shaping stage. Keep in mind if you’re making a knife for kitchen use, you want to give enough room for your knuckles to fit underneath the handle. Now we are going to get on with the action. The first thing we have got to do is cut off a piece of the spring. And now we need to make it into a flat bar. The technique is to hold it by the end lay it across the face of the anvil. Make sure it is bright red or orange colour but don’t let it get any hotter than that. If you see little sparks occuring on the side of it then the carbon is coming out of it and we don’t want that. At this stage you are using the heat of the forge to soften the material so you can shape it It is really important to get that overall shape working. If we look at this knife here as it comes from the handle down to the point you need to push the metal out and flattening it out and making it finer towards the tip. And likewise, from the back of the blade through to the sharp edge of the blade making sure there is an elongated V-shape happening there too. In terms of this part here, the shape and pattern of the handle, that is something you can tune-up later on with an angle grinder. In this blade we have done our initial forming and now it is time for a bit of shaping. The shaping is going to give the finished outline to it and what we’ll need here is the template that we drew and cut out earlier. Draw a profile onto the blade then grind it out on the grinder, and that will give you pretty much the final shape. At this stage you can also start to do the linishing to flatten out the blade and taking out all of the hammer marks. The next step is to replace the carbon that we’ve taken out of it during the heating process. Heat the knife up to a red heat and then put it into a container of sawdust That will make sure that the carbon lost druing the heating process is brought back into the skin of the steel making it a good hard blade ready for sharpening. At this stage the blade is very soft. We have put the carbon back into it and it is now ready for hardening. What we have to do is preheat some linseed oil to about 40 degrees celsius then get the blade up to a nice bright red. You test it is ready by putting a magnet against the blade. If the magnet doesn’t stick to the blade then you know it is at the correct temperature. Then quickly put the blade into the oil and stir it around for about 20 seconds. Moving it around makes sure you get fresh oil up against the entire skin of the hot steel, and gives an even cooling. When you have finished the hardening process, take the blade out of the oil and clean it off with methylated spirits. Now it is ready for the tempering. Preheat an oven up to 210 degrees celsius, put your blade into that and leave it there for half an hour. Turn the oven off, let it cool down, then take the blade out. That is the first stage of the tempering done. For your spring temper place the edge of the blade between two sheets of metal, clamp it in a vice and then hold the flame at the point above where the blade and the metal meet until the knife turns blue and then push that blue colour along the top, don’t let the blue colour come down to where the actual edge is though. just run it along… it is just like painting with the flame torch really. This is a piece of Jarrah which is a wonderful Australian hardwood which makes fantastic handles. This is a piece of Manuka, it could just as easily be used to make a handle. Any decorative wood can be used, probably tending towards the hardwood variety is better though. To put the handle onto the knife go back to the original pattern and look at the shape you want to use. Draw it up and cut it to shape. Get a feel for what it will be like when it is fully assembled. How wide is it? Does the curvature work in your hand? Particularly along the edges, you want to make sure they are nicely smoothed off. I’ve got a bit of brass rod here. These holes here were drilled to match the thickness of this particular rod. Cut your length of brass and then using a two-part glue which will set hard. Coat both pieces of the wooden handle, put your pins in, squeeze it in a clamp and let it set. Once it has set grind and sand off the glue and shape and you are finished. Just remember that this might be your first blade but I am sure once you get into it you’ll probably want to make more. The more you make the more you tune up the process.