5G Back-Bead Welding Hello. Today, we made a video about the stainless steel pipe “5G Root Pass.” I’d appreciate it if you could press “subscribe” and “Like.” So today we’re going to do a 5G position weld. Welding will be done from 6 o’clock to 12 o’ Pipe size is 65A (2 1/2 inch) SCH10 Stainless 304 pipe Pipe thickness is 3.05mm Today we’re going to do this “back-bead welding” in a 5G position. Here’s how to weld. I’m going to walk on both upper corners of the groove where the nozzle is dug. If you take it slow, it’s like this is. We will proceed by rolling the nozzle from side to side. If you look at it in continuous motion, it’s like this. We’re gonna do a weld through the way we pull the molten pool. I’ve shown you on another video before. You can compare and refer to it. And “Tack” did “Tack” in four places. But don’t do the “Tack” on either side. If you have to do “Tack,” you should do “Tack” in a very small size. And you should do “Tack” at 10 or 2 o’clock rather than at 9 o’clock. The reason for this is that it’s a little easier to supply the weld rods than it is to 9 o’clock. It’s a little easier to connect. A better way to do that is to grind the “Tack” into the grinder and weld it a little safer. Next is the width of the gap. What you’re looking at here is a 3.2mm welding rod. When you put this weld rod between the gaps, there’s this gap. And then… “purge” gas usage is enough to feel the wind escaping when 12 parts of the tape are opened. The nozzle has an internal diameter of 16mm. Large nozzle 10. I think this is the right angle for the weld. Then the tungsten length is about 4mm to 5mm. And the angle of the torch is this high. And you don’t have to take the tape away from it to weld it. I’m going to remove half of the tape and weld it. The current used 50 amps. Welding rod is 2.4mm. The amount of argon gas used is about 20 degrees. “purge” gas used argon gas. “purge” gas is about five or six degrees. The amount of argon gas used varies depending on the argon gas gauge or the gas can, so please keep in mind. In “Overhead Position,” it is recommended that you look at the back of the melt pool in view. It’s also a good idea to stop the weld for a while and then start again when you change At this point, it’s better to start again quickly before the weld temperature cools down. If you miss the timing, you can start from 5mm back and connect naturally. We’ve also included a way to restart the welding process at the back of the video, so please refer to it. When you do back-bead welding this thin pipe, the movement of the nozzle moves a little bit. In this case, using your wrist more than your elbow can make you feel more comfortable. At this point, the movement of the wrist… If you twist your wrist, it’s easier to do small, fast movements. And it’s a point of emphasis every time, but it’s better to be careful so that the head can pass before the molten pool. When connecting to “Tack”, it is recommended to slow down the weld speed and make sure that it is connected before passing. I need you to hold the crater at the end. This is the inside of the pipe. Once half of the welds are complete, it’s safe to use grinder to sharpen the finish area at 12:00. Welding is the way to drag the molten glue. The nozzle is moving one step at a time as if it were walking on the top edge of the diggin groove The movement of the weld pool is only welded with the feeling of melting the weld rod and attaching it to both corners. The supply of the weld rod is only enough to prevent the weld rod from being separated from the melt pool. Previously, we filmed a description of this weld method and a melting pool in another video. I think it would be helpful to watch the video together. The shape of the melting pool and the feed angle of the welding rod are like this. When connecting to the middle “Tack”, it is recommended that you slow down the weld speed and melt the “Tack” firmly before proceeding. Since low current is used when welding thin stainless pipes, intermediate “Tack” is more safe to cut or weld without “Tack” It is also safer to slow down the welding speed at the last connection and make sure it penetrates. The grinder may not penetrate well because of the narrow width of the excavated house. Now, if you melt a drop of the weld rods one by one, you’ll get a better penetration. When the weld stops and starts again, it’s better to restart it quickly before the welds cool down. If you miss the timing, start back about 5mm and weld it without a welding rod. After warming up like this, melt the end of the weld and then supply the weld rod to make the connection naturally. So here’s the result. So today we’ve made a video about Stainless Pipe 5G Back-Bead. My welding method is not necessarily the answer. But it’s one of the different welding methods that can be applied in a variety of situations, so I hope it helps. I hope this video will help all the welders grow up and help them a little bit. Please press “Like.” If you “subscribe” and come to my channel, there’s a lot more welding videos. Thanks for watching.