Taper Bore | Borax Water Wagon Hubs | Cast Iron Sleeves | Axle Boxing


As you walk into the shop, to the left
you see a bolt bin and on the top I have an assortment of boxings. Boxing’s are
the cast iron sleeves that are pressed into the hubs that is the bearing
surface that runs on the spindles of the axles. There’s a wide variety of boxing’s
and lengths and tapers and diameters. This is what makes it impossible
virtually to interchange wheels from one wagon to another. So just like today, when
Ford doesn’t interchange with Chevy, doesn’t interchange with Kia, doesn’t
interchange with Dodge, so in those days Wynonna doesn’t interchange with Bane or
John Deere or Weber or Owensboro. They all have their machining to fit
their axles. Well this boxing on the right is the
boxing we used on the borax, and the one on the left is similar boxing used on a
civil war style cannon, and although different in size, they are similar in
style. And these are a few boxing’s that came out of farm wagons or box wagons.
They might have different styles on the backside but most of them have these
little fins that are cast in to help them keep from spinning. However not all
of them do. Well this is a style that comes out of more like a mountain wagon
or a heavy spring wagon. This is a different style, just a different maker.
You can see the completely different style. It doesn’t have the smooth body. Then
this one has four fins on it. It’s a more of a lighter carriage type boxing. Anyway
these are the different styles of boxing’s, and there’s a variety, even way
past these when it comes to boxings in wagon wheels. Well last week we got the
hub for the water wagon kind of centered up where we think we’re gonna run pretty
true, so now I’m gonna bore the center for the boxing for the water wagon axle.
I’ve taken a piece of inch and a quarter 1045 tool steel,
about 24 inches long, and made the boring bar that I’m going
to use for this boring process. I only have six inches of travel so I have to
do this step by step, and even though my boring bar is 24 inches long I still
can’t reach clear through the full length of the hub, so I’ll start from one end, get
as far as I can and then we’ll turn around and come in from the other end. This first step is going to be for the
collar that’s on the axle that the boxing will bump up against. The tapers in boxing’s will vary from
wagon maker to wagon maker and often times it has to do with the application
of the wagon and many times they will range from one to two degrees. This borax
wagon is actually in the one degree area it was designed to run in relatively
flat country, out in the desert, so there wasn’t a lot of side stress, so the
spokes only come out of the hub at one degree also, which creates the dish in
the wheel. When we turned these hubs a couple years
ago we left them a little strong because we knew we’d have to true them up, so
this was kind of the process of getting them all uniform. Next we need to put the
hub bands on before we can press the boxings in. We’ll do that next week. Thanks
for watching!

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