See Thru Engine Final Blow Up Attempts (on EFI TURBO and NITRO) The END

See Thru Engine Final Blow Up Attempts (on EFI TURBO and NITRO) The END

welcome back to yet another episode with this
see-through engine in the last episode I was kind of cut short because I’ve decided to do the last two scenes where I bolt on the see-through head and run the engine on gas and nitromethane
on the dyno I started it up and it ran briefly but apparently there was so much electromagnetic
interference from the see-through had and all that spark
energy that it burned the crankshaft position sensor the ECU was acting all weird getting all sorts of weird signals that’s it the engine stopped and I had to
end the episode there I’m going to be picking up where I left off I made a few changes and finally got it running the first thing I changed was I connected a large ground cable from the block of the engine directly me to
the negative terminal of the battery I shielded the entire cable for the crankshaft
position sensor the next thing I did was take all of the ground
wires from the sensors and connect them to the sensor ground that
goes directly to the ECU and last but not least I rerouted the ignition
cable behind so we can get a nice clear view inside the combustion chamber for the entire
run then magic happened the engine started right up and I saw a more
consistent powerful spark then I have ever seen in the history of this
engine now that I have all that done I’m going to Simply pick up where I left off
in the previous episode and try to blow this thing sky-high so we can get some closure and sleep tonight I plan on running it with multiple see-through
heads on gas and nitromethane regular timing and
anti-lag but before that since I already have this since I already have this see-through head
bolted it on from the previous episode I’m going to do one run on this head Full
Throttle on gas with the dyno until it stops or something
happens to the Head I think we lost compression nah it’s losing compression now okay so we’re done let’s take a look at this
real quick this electrode is already all loose inside
of there It basically melted the entire head already it’s liquefied look at that it’s moving around
inside of there that’s it for this head let’s move onto the
other design I have and see what it does it already cracked the
plastic a little bit here so I guess that’s it man super lame whatever let’s put another head on here and
go for the gold go for the full run Okay so there we go I’m going to mount a brand
new see-through head this is probably like the 15th head that I
have made for this engine all right it
looks like this thing ain’t going to start I have been trying to start this thing so
long not it looks like I have damaged my drill looks like I broke my pinion gear man this is original Craftsman too that’s how I obsessed I have been with trying
to start this engine because it’s such a tease if I go and turn
the engine even like this I mean the pumps start and
while I’m cranking it the injectors pulsing the pumps are running the ECU is getting some sort of crank signal but the spark is completely off it’s sparking
sporadically it’s misfiring here and there but I need to
get through this episode what I’m going to do is I’m going to use whatever
we have left of this sensor to still run this thing on fuel injection
and let the ECU control everything else and forget about the ignition
timing I’m just going to adopt the old Magneto style
coil to the engine and adapt the sensor together use the ignition coil to control the spark and use the sensor to send the signal to the
ECU to control everything else got through this episode blow this thing up I only have two scenes to go one on gas and
one on nitromethane and that’s it I’m all done setting this up I’m going to
call this a hybrid system I’m using the original coil from this engine
in combination with the EFI system the way this is going
to work is the original coil is going to take care of
the spark and ECU is going to take care of everything
else the moment of truth let’s see if this thing
is actually going to start I mean it ran the RPMs were kind of jumping
all over the place so the sensor is definitely damaged you know if this doesn’t work now I’m literally
going to abandon this whole sensor idea and I’m going to go
with something more Industrial hardcore that we are able to put Sparks directly
to the sensor and have it still survive I’m not sure what
that is but I’m going to figure it out for now I’m just going to run it on this head
like I originally planned before this happened and go from there missing not missing who cares I’m just going
to Full Throttle it and leave it there hopefully the sensor survives let’s see what happens something cool has
to happen and I have to be done with this episode let’s
do that next It looks like we may have blew the head gasket or damage this head I mean that was definitely a pretty solid run that’s for sure this thing I ran for like what 2 minutes straight and it was under load from the dyno oh yeah
that brake is hot finally I got this thing running that was
an interesting run I want to open it up and see what happened I think we blew a head gasket and I have some heavier Duty head gaskets just to remind you this was the old head oh what it wasn’t a head gasket it actually burned a hole hold on one second
here comes its hot look at that it actually burned a hole right
in the head that actually burn a hole right in the Head
look at that right through the bolt the bolthole and look at this it looks like something and looks like a piece of ice actually like
a piece of melted ice so cool so I’m going to bolt on this newer
style head and see if it lasts longer I mean at this
point it wasn’t even the head gasket that went it
was the head and it even seems like this engine was using
this head for fuel at some point but this damage here I don’t know I’m thinking this might have
something to do with the temperature of the block for the next run I hooked up a blower and a giant hose to direct air into the engine block and keep the engine
block cool that way the only thing that’s going to overheat
is this head and what I’m hoping is going to happen is
that this hat is going to get so hot that is going to weekend the actual head and we’re going to get a nice maybe explosion coming out of the top or something that’s
going to look visually spectacular that’s what I’m hoping for but let’s see that was pretty cool not exactly what I was
hoping for when I wanted to see what some sort of visual
light show like something blowing up or sparks flying
fire or something but that’s not what happened so let’s take a look and see what did happen and it turns out that the electrode there
goes all my screws the electrode heated up and kind of work its
way out of the head with the Heat and the pressure and just popped
up but this is the longest that I’ve ever had
one of these heads last on this engine in one runs so this was kind of impressive that was definitely and Improvement but yeah so I think the next thing I’m going
to do is oh wow look at you can see it ate up the whole bottom side of the head you can see that the engine started burning
the head as fuel up to the point that it lost the Electro so that’s where we got all those nice colors
from and it was still pretty interesting now moving on next thing I’m going to do is mount a new see-through head switch this whole
thing over from gas to nitromethane and do the same thing to do one full run with the Dyno on nitromethane and see what
happens hopefully we get more action than this but if not it’s still going to look cool anyway wow that was fast all right so that was a complete failure it seems like the excess pressure from the
nitromethane just a literally popped the electrode right
out this is going to be my final attempt I just
went all out I just drilled a larger hole for the electrode
and put a bolt in there like a quarter-inch Bolt and this is it this is my final attempt no
matter what happens let’s see this is the end here we go here
we go my guess is it’s going to blow the head out
before the gasket I mean the head gasket out before the electrode
but who knows lets see ahh that sucks the electrode came loose look at that I know that wasn’t what we wanted
to see but I mean this is 8 episodes of this thing
already how much more excitement can you get so this is the end of this thing that’s it
it’s over so those were three failures in a row with three different types of electrodes I don’t really know what happened because
I ran this engine before with that electrode and it blew the head gasket
and did damage I don’t know what happened here maybe something
changed but like I said this was going to be my last attempt and then I’m going to end this series right
here this is the end and saying its the End is probably the easiest
part for me of this series because this has been not only a mission but
a serious Journey building all of this and designing all of
this I never thought that this engine would make
it this far what is this episode already hasn’t blown
up I genuinely tried and this has been weeks
and weeks of work just into just building this I never thought it would come this far but I wanted to thank like Briggs & Stratton
especially for all of their support AMP EFI I’m going to be using that EFI system
in the upcoming episodes for different engines like I said this is not the end for this type of engine
series I know people love these but this is the end
for this engine this is going to be an exhibit now and it made it to the end it was really I don’t even know what to say I never thought
it would last this long so that being said yeah thanks for all of
my sponsors and everybody who supported this entire series they have been super awesome really helpful and I couldn’t end this without saying thanks
to them I’m going to have the second version of this
engine coming up in another series look out for the next one anything that somebody wanted to see from
this particular series like the anti-lag and the knocking and the
advance timing and all that mechanical geeky stuff I’m moving on to the new series the second version of this see-through engine
which is better more reliable easier to start that’s for sure and yeah just better all together so it’s
going to be easier for me if you haven’t seen any of the previous episodes
go back and watch those THANKS FOR WATCHING see you soon

100 thoughts on “See Thru Engine Final Blow Up Attempts (on EFI TURBO and NITRO) The END

  1. Those Briggs & Stratton engines are nearly indestructible! Great job and definitely the BEST production quality on YouTube!!

  2. Please dissassemble the engine so we can get a proper look at the cylinder wall, the piston skirt, the crankshaft and connecting rod. It would be a good way to wrap it up and show off all the wear on parts

  3. Your work should be seen and studied un every mechanics or engineering school, college and universities. Thanks for sharing with mortals!

  4. do 1 more episode but with the original cilinder head not a plastick one. because in the original head, the spark plug can be screwed in and cannot melt. Pleas do it. 1 more time

  5. cabbage I cry my heart, that this episode is the last of the series of this turbo engine, thank you for your explanations that you gave us about this engine, I do not see now that the second season of the turbo engine is coming out immediately

  6. Would it be possible to put a small spark plug (or just a wire epoxied in) from the the bottom so the head doesn't have the spark screw weak point? Cause so far it's been the weakest point in the setup

  7. i K know you are done, but, you should use washers under the head bolts. not only to dissipate the clamping load, but to seal pressure, and to conduct some heat. every little bit will help.

    Same for the electrode. I would want to conduct some extra heat as well. even attach some heat sink. cacn be extended far above the motor to not block the view.

    and blow some cooler air over the head/electrode.

    The electrode was always the weak link, as it was not only exposed to all the other parts/components, but, it was also conducting/generating heat on its own..

  8. the THING THAT CHANGED was you achieve a far more efficient spark. It generated far more heat.. flir would have confirmed that…

  9. Have you considered insulating the electrode with ceramic or something similar? so it would not melt off the head as fast. Looks like some gas grills have ceramic electrodes that could be used, if there was a way to seal them to the head.

  10. Matt…..thread a spark plug into the head,ground the threaded portion to the engine case….
    Then put the plug wire back on…..the plug body will be faked into thinking its threaded into the aluminum cylinder head…..then your ecu will work….
    Matt …..from southside contols

  11. Awesome bro! Gd to see ya again! I wish you and you're family a happy new year! And a merry christmas! Ik its early lol! But just incase! ?????

  12. P.S. Thanks for your time and expertise. The geeky stuff is helpful and can be applied to all engines for leaning about tho mighty internal combustion engines.
    Need flathead Ford V-8 with clear heads and dist.

  13. 8:08 With high speed camera and transparent air intake you can adjust optimal timing for fuel injection! Note that it was not injecting at the same time the air flows into cylinder.

  14. Briggs flatheads are quite bulletproof… its sad that modern B&S engines aren't built as simple and are mostly made in china now.

  15. I might have gone for broke with the iron head, but you did a great job with this series. I look forward to more of your videos on all of your channels.

  16. @Warped_Perception I know a Megasquirt Guru in the Chicago area. Reply if you would like me to send you his contact information.

  17. That sounds awesome it's running better than I've ever heard it run it looks like you took some of my advice I have a idea for you on your acrylic head to keep it from melting I think what you should do is Mount some aluminum heat sink fins and you put a directional fan on the inside of that plate that you're using to mark your sensor for your firing position I think if you would use the mounting holes for the head and have some heat sinks come off them and you have a way to move the air around the heatsink aluminum will draw out a lot of heat as long as it doesn't get saturated once it gets too hot it loses its capability of drawing heat away but I think that's a way that you can make these acrylic heads last longer is if you give it away to dissipate the heat that it is enduring you can even make it like a design like a gasket a ring around the acrylic head that has fins that uses the same mounting holes as the head itself so when you mount it to the block it will seal then it will draw heat from the bottom side as well yeah I think that would be a solution if you give it some aluminum heat sinks and a cooling fan but good job on shielding the wires and keeping the electromagnetic crosstalk from happening also were you have strands of wires running in linear Direction twist them their electromagnetic fields when they're Twisted will not interact with each other but when they're in a line they can induct current in one another and screw up signals this is an awesome tangent experiment I think if you figure out a good enough cooling system you could keep the acrylic head on there all the time and put it in a go kart and that would be a blast don't blow it up I want you to put it in a go-kart and see how fast a turbocharged Briggs & Stratton will go because I've written a go kart with a Briggs & Stratton just naturally aspirated and not souped up like that that would be talked to have a fuel injected turbocharged go kart Epic badass to the Gearhead Supreme level good job keep up the great work warped perception

  18. Up a v e Channel on YouTube I bet he can help CNC machine out some heat sinks and I think you should put the fan on the outside of the sensor now that I'm thinking out about it and have it be a bigger diameter so I can move enough air I think you overheated it these Electronics do you have a temperature threshold they will fail if they get too hot you need a way to move air and heat away from that engine and that would keep it running better for longer good luck peace out into the world have a great day

  19. What you're going to have to do it's figure out a coil pack you might have to make your own cuz I've never heard of a 1 cylinder coil pack and what's he get 1 off a single cylinder motorcycle that's an idea I guess good luck man don't blow it up put it in a go-kart see how fast it goes and if you do blow it up soup up another engine like it and see how fast that f*** will go peace out into the world have a great day

  20. that's why I say put the heat sink on the bottom around the bolt so the aluminum heatsink will pull the heat away from the bolts and the head and let that fit acrylic head last longer without melting compression Los hole in it plus you got to have air flow you got to put a fan or have a fan in the room blow the air and the Heat away from the engine and it will last a lot longer each acrylic head will last a lot longer peace out into the world good luck have a great day

  21. Awesome series! I would've like to had seen the OEM head on it and seen what it would've done! Any see-thru head just isn't going to hold up long enough to destroy the engine.

  22. Briggs & stratton's are so damn tough cuz they're built and designed like stuff used to be made in America to last forever but now we live in what I call the condom Society you use at once and throw it away and that's what's wrong with this damn world nobody takes pride and what they make cuz most stuff is made in China by a bunch of slaves and a slave doesn't what's up man

  23. You should totally hit one of these little guys with a 25hp shot of N2O on c16 and if it lives hit it with a 50hp shot lol

  24. the reason your crank sensor is going bad is because its shorting the plug through it using it as the ground, you can fix this by putting in a second electrode to act as a battery ground which then bypasses the sensors to keep them from frying.

  25. I wonder if you could make a billet aluminum head and put a round real glass window in it? I don't think the real glass would melt as easy as the plastic?

  26. I think the electrode started failing because it was producing more powerful sparks after you grounded it and such.

    Maybe keeping the electrode itself cold would have been a good idea. Who knows.

  27. Pretty awesome, too bad it didn't blow up but that just shows how indestructible Briggs engines are! Looking forward to the new series!

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