Rust Solutions You Need to Know About from Eastwood – with Kevin Tetz

Rust Solutions You Need to Know About from Eastwood – with Kevin Tetz


a happy people happy friday if it’s this is another
Eastwood live stream broadcast Eastwood has the tools and equipment to do the
job right and that’s exactly what we’re going to show you how to do today when it comes to rust these broadcasts
are live but we do repost them I had somebody hit
me on facebook and say I can’t get off work because it’s two o’clock in the
afternoon on the East Coast can i watch this at a later time the
answer is yes if you’re not watching this live with us right now we will post
this on the eastwood youtube channel and you’ll be able to watch this in perpetuity eastwood and education
share a common goal and that is to educate and empower and pass on the
skills that we picked up over the years to help you guys have a better success
in whatever it is that you’re doing whether it’s restoring a motorcycle or
bicycle a 51 Chevy we want to pass on skills that we picked up i don’t know
everything but I know what I know and and and my hope is to be able to pass on
some of what I’ve learned in my career as a professional restoration and paint
and body guy and a hobby guy quite frankly that will help you in in your
job Eastwood has the same mine and we have
i’m proud to say we have just passed over 1,000 tech videos online all free including these live broadcast
so it’s a cool place to be East was a cool company to to be associated with so
I’m proud of that having said that education and structural videos covers
this subject of rust metal replacement so you know look for us on the eastwood
website in eastwood catalogs you’ll find education everywhere eastwood is so
we’re going to be talking about rest i’m going to be showing us some great
techniques on how to deal with different levels of rest and we’re going to talk
about window hang it up and went to give up the ghost
when you you’ve just reached a point of of there’s just no going back and you
need to go ahead and either replace metal or just replace the part so let’s talk about rust what is rust rust is oxidation technically if you
look it up in the dictionary rust is the chemical process between a ferrous metal
containing iron and the atmosphere which contains oxygen hydrogen and it’s that
combination of that stuff that creates a different thing that shows up brown and
money looking at his rust which is this technically rust is oxidation what is oxidation it’s it’s a chemical
reaction between a material and the atmosphere that creates another material
so steel can rust but aluminum can also rest check this out that’s corrosion look here on the edge that’s corroded
it’s deteriorated so i can aluminum rest in the technical sense according to the
Webster’s dictionary no because the chemical process is
different but aluminum here to tell you can rust so if you have to think about even
plastics can rest look at this this is the seat back for projects like that’s
what it’s supposed to look like that’s the color that it was molded in however that’s the color that it is now
and this the surface is so degraded because of
that oxygenation that chemical reaction in
the atmosphere that this piece is no longer even usable I guess you know you can make the
argument that if it’s not available in the aftermarket then you could somehow
refurbish it scale all this stuff off my point is everything rests plastic rest
too so in this instance I’m going to go to
the National Arts deep of catalog and get a new piece and I had a little
diagram showing it but it kind of looks like a green rainbow so we’re not going to use that when you’re dealing with rust you’re
dealing with chemicals and spinning things because basically there’s two
different ways to attack rust you can attack it chemically and you can attack
it mechanically mechanically what I’m talking about is Sanders grinders
stripping disk so we’ve got some great stuff to show you how and what to use
and we’ve also got some chemicals that we’re going to show you how to use as
well and think your way through the rest and outsmart that rust as always if
you’re dealing with chemicals protect yourself we’ve got rubber gloves that are
chemical resistant for the spinning sharp things we’ve got some gloves and
by the way you can get these from these two catalog as well and protect your
eyes if it’s going to be dusty protect your respiratory system we’ve got safety
glasses we’re gonna be using as well I want to
show you something this is a frame rail this is a frame rail that belongs to a
friend of mine and they’re fixing up a jeep CJ and they bought it used went and
got it drove it around and discovered that you know one of the tabs one of the
mounting tabs was rested on the on the frame rail that was actually holding the
body to the frame so it’s okay well you know that there’s a kit for that so they took it home they brought it
home and started disassembling the Jeep project and by the time they got done this is what they had left i’m going to
turn a light on so you can really see what the damages check that out look inside their dive
deep Steve this is camera guy Steve it looks like an artifact from the
Titanic it’s fantastic and I got to be careful
that I don’t need a tetanus shot with this they drove this vehicle around for 10
miles test driving it just to see if it was
worth by while they bought it and come to find out it’s just gone man its shot this what
this is running around on the road so be careful guys make sure that you really
thoroughly inspect something like this so that you don’t end up by 11 or
finding something that’s quite frankly unsafe and that’s the most important
thing that they found a frame online and they’re replacing the entire frame but
this this is what’s out there so just be
careful and having said that this frame rail you have reached the point to where this
is not repairable it’s just not this is the structural
member this is the bones of the whole entire vehicle you want to be careful to
to make the right judgment call and try not to patch around this thing even
though up here good looking.its live what happens happens it’s it feels solid
up here but it over here no story so do a good thorough
inspection having said that if your frame rails are okay right preventing rest is all about doing due
diligence one of the coolest things about Eastwood is that they think
through these problems and they’ve they’ve got a product it’s an internal
frame coating you can treat metal on the outside but if you can’t see it and if
you can’t reach it all you have is your assumption and we know what assumption
is and i’m going to show you this internal friend Cody it’s it’s got a hose with an atomizer on
the end and this is a just a light protection to that I got a local Home
Center but just as you could put this up inside a frame rail inside a good frame
rail now this is not to fix what’s there but she would slide this inside a frame
rail feed it down into the frame rail press it and pull it out and as it pulls
out this atomizer shoots the internal frame coding and and coats the inside of
the rest and it puts a layer between it puts a layer between the oxygen and the
substrate and it’s going to have a barrier coating effect and minimize or
slow down that Russ if not completely stop it so you can do a lot of prevention I use
this on said slit on the factory suffering here’s how it works pardon me while i
fumble just a little bit because this is lightweight but you can see how far that
sucker goes in there it’s about 30 inches when I hit the
trigger you can see what it is doing that
internal frame coating is calling the entire and it takes a while to slow down
but it’s it’s coating the inside of this to of this tube so there you can provide excellent
protection and smoking like that because i didn’t check it up stuff settles in
the can so that’s that’s on me but you can see that how that protects
the internal part of something like a frame rail something like a rocker panel
a captured panel behind a quarter panel balloon assembly inside of like a
vintage mustang something like that the internal frame coating is a really nice
product and it goes a long way to preventing rust from either getting
worse or preventing it from happening in the first place on a fresh restoration
another product that does the same thing is the heavy-duty anti-rust it’s a waxy
coating similar to the older ziebart coatings if you guys are old enough to
remember those and it gets sprayed on the inside of areas that comes with a
little straw there’s a little tri-five Chevy picture
on the front and it shows you how to use this stuff I use this internal part of
that sort of the heavy duty and arrest inside the doors and inside the quarter
panels of zest and when I got done media blasting so chemicals have a place and
Eastwood has chemicals just get online hit us up go to the
eastward restoration form and we can we can answer your questions so let’s talk
about ways of mechanically removing rust these stripping discs are wonderful for
stripping rest if you try to strip rust with sandpaper a couple of things
happens the grid of the of the sand paper for some reason just gets leveled
on flat within seconds and and it smooths the paper out and it renders it
nearly useless in about 10 seconds however the stripping this i’m going to
come up close they’re very porous and that does a couple of things it’s a fiber that’s got grit on the
outside of it and that fiber stays cool and it doesn’t collect that it doesn’t
have any grit really – to smooth over I’ve got it on this old black connector
variable speed rotary sander it’s got a typical five-eighths arbor
you’ve got a small size as well as the larger size and they work fantastic another great way to eliminate rest
without burning out a piece of sandpaper are these finger wheels these up bristol disks is what they’re called
you’ve got them in the twist lock attachment form as well as one with ann
arbor on it that you can put on top of your up of your variable speed machines
when I say variable speed because the ones that aren’t they typically lock in
at about eight grand about 8,000 rpm and you don’t want to have any of these
pieces coming up never mind if you’ve got safety glasses on your gloves on
these little pieces can come off if the excuse for the RPM is excessive those
ratings on here but slow slow is better slow doesn’t build up heat the other way is just good old-fashioned
manual wire brushing and this is a very effective way of scaling rust Eastwood
also sells the rotary wire brushes there’s a whole box of them here it’s a five packets a cylindrical wire
brush that you can check up into a drill and you can get into crevices and areas
places like in here that you normally wouldn’t want to get your being seven
and a half inch distance so the tools are there to do the job which brings ok here’s another one
there’s another version of the fiber wheel this is on a disk and it sucked up
into my cordless drill and it’s the same thing as the same
material it lasts 40 forevers and it has a very
nice job of eliminating the rest of scaling it off in exposing as much good
metal as possible this is a 1951 chevrolet cab and it is a
prime example of what happens to a vehicle here is original paint this is not original but you could tell
us that original pay because of the awesome job that they did am asking this
is actually rubber underneath there we’ve got painted moldings it’s a
different color so somebody’s tried in vain to cover up corrosion rust oxidation whatever and it
just doesn’t work very well something like this you know people ask
all the time how do I know what to fix well you can’t
know what to fix you can understand what the problems are until you expose them so what you need to do in a situation
like this you’re starting with the restoration just like we did with project said sled
and I’m going to refer to that a lot because a lot of these tools were were
used in the restoration of that car you can find this edge LED on the
eastward youtube channel from the first show the second show we media blaster
the car in the body with different substrates you’ve got to get down to metal you’ve
got to see what’s there rust is an iceberg what you see is about
a third of what’s actually there this channel I guarantee you is arrested
all in your scene about a third of it right here the fender was covering that up that’s
where the fender bolts to this vehicle right there there’s even a welting there that was
covering up some of that this is absolutely just shot it’s gone but that was invisible that’s what i
mean by rest is an iceberg the years your act by the time it
manifest to the top of the paddle that’s about a third of what’s going on
underneath so you’ve got to get the car naked you got to get that’s everything
stripped off of it and and find out what’s going on with the metal to make a
good assessment to make the right judgment as to as to uh what to even do
so we’re going to strip just a little bit here with i just want to show you
how these things work this is fantastic and again i’m going to use the low rpm gloves and glasses and we’re just going
to do a small portion and I’m providing is almost no pressure
i’m just letting the weight as a tool skip this step off look at this out of speeds way and you
can see what we’ve exposed here it’s fun it’s like archaeology there’s
your steel substrate there’s the factory primer there’s our
green paint just like the green paint on the cowling and we’ve got looks like a
black primer and then yellow paint on top of that so this tells us a lot this tells us
that it’s not a whole lot of paint that’s on top of the original paint and
it took about 10 to 15 seconds to expose that you multiply that times the size of
the cab yes there’s a time investment however this stuff is getting the job
done quick and it’s a very effective way of in fact getting rid of all of all of
that crusty rust now with our big seven and a half inch
wheel work inside these areas well if you try to do that sometimes you’re gonna ruin the edges and this
thing is flat worn out and the edges take the heat see how that’s rounded over the area in
the middle this is still very effective but I’ve ruined the edge on this so what
I’m going to do now is trade from that to my fiber wheel on my electric drill yeah yeah yeah and i can very effectively get inside
these channels here and expose what’s underneath I need to look I need to see another
thing we can do is using pneumatic equipment we can use the bristle discs
where’s my here’s my air hose and I could get into areas like this yeah all right this works very well for
getting into that area two things i want you to notice there’s some heavy-duty
sanding scratches here and this area right here is almost polished it’s a
second I can tell a huge difference in the way the fields this is almost not even profile so
you’ve got a very nice condition of the metal now that you strip the the paint
layers off even though it took a little bit longer it’s something to be said for that if
you’ve got precious metal of it irreplaceable piece of metal you want to
be a little more careful maybe the bristle disc is the way to go having said that I’ve seen guys strip a
vehicle with an angle grinder in a rock that doesn’t end well because you
profile the metal what do I mean by profiling the metal you put aggressive
marks into it choosing your your blast media carefully
is important we’re going to talk about last meeting here in just a second
because sandblasting is of course another mechanical way of stripping
paint so you you don’t want to profile the
middle if you could possibly get away with it so we’ve used a the stripping
disc and the Bristol disc here that’s showing you how to get the job
done and not damage the metal not create a problem that you then have to pick so
put your grinding rocks away and even though they might seem like they’re
faster you’re creating repair work to do on top of that so those things are very effective for
cleanup this is another way to get that metal
very very clean and this is the beauty of the twist lock I can change out surfaces in seconds now I can go back here jumping all over the place and I can
take this area here Wow and in seconds i’ve got a very nice
service I have really reduce the sanding
scratches and upset that out for whatever coatings I need and made it
look almost like that so different tools in the toolbox you know it’s not about buying one tool
to get the job done it’s about analyzing the process and seeing what you need going to east of getting what you need
to do the job so i wanted to show you the different varieties of tools so you
can make an informed decision this is a wire wheel II that fits onto
the the variable speed rotary sander this is a very good method of getting a
lot of scanning risk out but I want to caution you with these things if you get
the RPM up too much the the steel twists here the steel
fibers in its basically chunks of cable in here they can break off and they can get
launched sometimes you don’t see it even with safety glasses sometimes these
things can get around your glasses and in behind them and you’re going to know
what when it happens so be careful with these don’t get the RPM up too much use
a slow rpm and a little bit more pressure and keep this stuff down and
just please be very careful because i live to spray another day is what I say
you don’t want to end up in the emergency room so we showing you are our mechanical sanding
type of ways to get rid of paint to expose the rest and even get rid of some
of the rest because these discs do work very well on getting rid of rust but
let’s talk about media blasting if you go to hands on cars episode 2 we have
this Escalade camaro and we are accusing the east with dual blaster the dual
blaster is nice because it’s got soda in one side and aluminum oxide in the other
side the soda takes paid off and it doesn’t profile the metal just like this
is very smooth you don’t want to file your medal and create a job to do you
want to leave it as smooth as possible and get rid of the paint make your
assessment and then do your repair so we’ve got soda one side aluminum
oxide and the other side so it won’t take rust out it won’t do it so the dual blaster is
nice because you’ve gotta switch valve here on the trigger to where you can
switch or blend you can switch to the aluminum oxide get rid of the rest cut it off switch back to soda and then
you can still continue on and effectively last year up your project so
another great alternative if it’s a giant job this is going to take you a little while
it’s a small nozzle relatively speaking and it turns into a pretty large job
however the thing about doing it yourself is not just empowering yourself
that you’ve actually done the job it’s about having total control over
what it is that you’re doing and if you farm it out to somebody okay i want to tell the story a friend
of mine and I that worked in the body shop one time what we were going to
we’re going to fix up bicycles that we gotta dig store and and give them to to
Toys for Tots for Christmas and we did it on on two different bicycles and then
there was one of the real crusty paint job so he took it to this guy and he was
sandblasting dump truck beds with black beauty is so it’s a it’s a obsidian very
coarse it be course media so we he was going to blast a bicycle frame we knew
what we were doing he did it for free so he throws his bicycle frame on the
ground blast it he warped the bicycle frame with this
last video I’m not kidding people he warped the bicycle frame it was bent on
the big giant seat bar I’m not making this up so that showed me
the power of using the wrong media for the right reason and you want to be
careful when you select that so farming it out sometimes you don’t know what
media that they use if you could possibly you know put the time
investment in it’s just better to have that control having said that I’ve formed outlast
jobs when I trust the guy so that that up that process is out
there as well so it’s about what type of currency you’re spending whether you’re
spending money to have it done by somebody else or whether you’re spending
time to do it yourself you just have to kind of make that
decision based on what you find when you strip the middle down so by the way I’ve got my bluetooth head
piece in and mats on the other end when we’re close to being done what my
presentation is going to be we’re going to field questions from you guys we’ve
got people queued up that that have questions about their own personal rest
repair projects and we’re going to do our best to answer you with an important
way mass on the other end is very technically savvy the great metal worker
great welder and and he’s going to if I don’t know the answer somebody needs to test so we’re going to
help you as always answer your questions and help you get through your project so
that’s why I’m wearing my earpiece there’s a couple of different ways metal can rust I was doing a seminar at
the cleveland show in Parma and I was talking to he was a retired metal worker
and and he was very smart very sharp guy he was as big as a Mack truck but he was
just really technically savvy was very interesting conversation and he said
that they’re taught that metal starts to flash rest within 20 seconds of being
exposed 20 seconds of metal being exposed to atmosphere that’s when it
starts to flash rest and I wanted to do something that shows that yesterday and
I don’t know if camera guy Steve can pick this I was sweating it was hot it’s still
technically in Tennessee its kind of summers so I could I put mopped my forehead with
my hand and I laid down the imprint of my hand right here Steve can you see
that I’m looking at the monitor to make sure that that we can we can now
okay yeah you can see it i’m looking at it ok that’s not from just now you can see
that very clearly i’m gonna hold it like that I want you to look at that because i
have a civic skin i have oily skin and I used to play guitar and I rest guitar
strings very quickly a lot of people have a high pH value in
their sweat and I’m happy to be one of those people I’m toxic but but look what
it’s doing you can see a clear impression of my
handprint on that steel and I swear all I did was touch my forehead get my hand
wet and do one of those because I knew that’s what’s going to happen because i
have had the misfortune that coming back through my work and it breaks your heart it absolutely breaks yard so we want you
to never have this come through a paint job or underneath filler and bubble your
filter bubble you repair so I want to drive the point home 20
seconds corrosion stars so having said that Eastwood has a wonderful product is
called fast etch now fast hatch you can brush it on you can soak it it
is a uh it’s a rust converter it’s a mild acid that converts for us to
a zinc phosphate on a microscopic level so with the fast stretch and i’m going
to show you on this panel because it’s going to be a pretty striking demo fast
which is a really nice way to prep your metal before you start wet coats and put
my glasses on because this is an acid and I’ve got my gloves on and I’ve got
my fast catch this is just a demo on on how effective this coating is and you
can there’s a really good example on the website of somebody just rubbing it with
the rag I like that like to go one extra mile he’s a red scuffing pad and kind of help
it along the way this product works is you need to let it sit on the on the
surface for about 30 minutes wet so I’m gonna let us sit wet i’m going to give
it another spritz it stays wet by itself for a long time if you lose track of time or if you’re
trying to multitask like me here’s a tip use one of these guys this
is just an egg time you get these at the dollar store guess how much they cost you can put
your time or out and you can set the time and it you know 30 minutes of keeping your
surface wet you can eyeball it I’m not really even you know so if a
stretch sets up the surface on a microscopic level and since i’m
impatient and were pressed for time here i’m going to accelerate the process and
technically one of the guys in our deities which said that fast that is
sort of done what it’s going to do in just a few seconds meaning that the acid
is doing its hatching within a few seconds of being applied to the surface what I’m doing is helping it along by
scaling some of the rest and exposing the metal that the acid needs to to
attach itself to you can see pretty pretty quickly what the difference is i don’t mean to
be a ShamWow guy like that but look at that that’s amazing seconds later now I’m prepped this is an excellent
prep for priming it’s an anti spatter for welding and you can see it looks
like brand new metal we’re not done here after fastest you’ve
got to do one of two things you have to wipe it down with some sort of a solvent
pre-painting prep in the aerosol cans is a very nice solution for this what you
want to do soak it with the pre make sure that is
completely saturated use a clean towel and wipe off in one direction so that
any residue of the fast edge comes off of there it’s a conversion coating it converts
surface rust to zinc phosphate so guess what that does that creates a layer over
top of my cold rolled steel panel here and that creates a barrier from class
dressing this stuff will hold flash resting off for a week so now buys me
time to go ahead and put my coatings on whether that’s a roughing up for filler
or like I did on set so that I fast as I epoxy i did my body work and then we go
into surfaces that we block and then we prime and then we painted the car is
shining and it’s nice and its flag and I know that it’s done right so fast that is a very nice product and
it’s a very simple way of getting there it’s not the only rest product there’s a really cool thing if you have
the opportunity to to do a dipper up or an immersion this stuff is cool I am praying that I don’t spill this
because I would look like a moron this is gel rust is Oliver says it needs
to work about eight hours this is a seat track presents led that was it was too
far gone but i wanted to up to show the power of this rust dissolver it’s been
sitting in here I don’t know about 10 hours and again at
the risk of being a dog and pony show ShamWow guy the rust is gone and a good metal is
there it’s just i’m going to show the camera it’s it’s a nice way of getting rid of
the rust and it doesn’t just color the rust it doesn’t cover it up it
completely removes it and eliminates and it’s a nice product if you don’t have a
tank big enough enough for us is over to immerse your product or your partner
you’re dealing with larger parts here’s another way to use rest is over
this control arm is completely resident another thing about the rest is all
there is it needs rust it needs rust – – to convert uh so we’ve got a
completely rusty part here and I’ve got my rest is all over here and I’m
slathering it on like I’m finger painting in the third grade and I want a
nice fat GUI layer of this up on here now i’m going to take some plastic that
you get over the dollar store and I’m just landed on top you don’t
want to seal it in tight you want to have enough of of a an air layer in
there for the oxygenating effect to work you don’t want to seal it in but what is
going to do is keep that stuff from outgassing it’s going to keep it wet for
a long time if you can’t get your parts you can use
the rest is over like this it works very very well so we’re going to slide this over here i’m making a massive my handprint excuse me so I want to talk about rust
encapsulator we’ve got rest his offers rust converter is resting capsule laters
rest products for us products how do you know what to use well there’s a couple
of different ways you can tell what to use i’m going to bring it back over here a rest is over or a rust converter needs
rust on they call it uneven surfaces or or
mismatch services where there’s paint or there’s clean metal beside rest like
this this knuckle right here there’s still
some factory paint there and there’s exposed to rest here and this is an
uneven surface it’s not a hundred percent rest so you can get by with the
rescue capsule later here but the rest converter well it needs to be a hundred
percent rusty you can use it but it doesn’t do
anything really against these painted surfaces here and encapsulate ER does a
good job of converting and hiding and starving and that’s where an
encapsulated comes in handy however here is either the rest
dissolver or arrest converter because this thing is a hundred percent rusty
the entire piece is resting so that’s the difference in the encapsulate errs
and the converters and converters need a hundred percent rust in the encapsulator
could be used over mixed surfaces ah there the rust encapsulator needs to
go over top of a surface that’s prepped what I mean by prep is by using a wire
brush or some kind of mechanical device to scale the rust you’ve got to get rid of that loose
scale on the top of it and then expose what’s underneath you don’t want that
barrier on their you want as much of the rest exposed as possible and a wire
brush does a great job of that after you’ve scaled the rest with a wire
brush you can use a pre-painting prep for an acetone
or washed in or whatever you’ve got hanging around in your shop even some of
the break cleaning sprays are pretty good for that because it’s a strong
aggressive solvent it’s not as cost-effective pre is very
inexpensive to use and it lasts a long time so I want to urge you to do that
it’s a mild or solvent than than the brake clean as well and and what you end
up with their this is the recipe right here this is scaled rest we moved over to the scale dressed and
use the rust converter and you can see it’s changed the color it changed the
rest to black its converted it to a to a zinc phosphate i think is a chemical
anyways it converts it black once you’ve left to 24 hours then we’ve
gone to arrest encapsulator and it’s the second semi gloss rust encapsulator it
looks really nice it’s got a nice satin Sheen to it and
for all intents and purposes on a driver on something that’s not a full-on below
full-blown restoration that’s a nice finish so Bob’s your uncle
your kind of done however look a little closer you can see
that the surface is not perfect the surface has picked up the lumps of
rest so is it a perfect way to fit it is very
effective we’ve got rust converted rust and
everything covered up with encapsulator that’s a nice process there and on a
frame on a driver that’s a nice way to go so what if you
want to do better what if you want to sand and prime and
top coat with other different topcoats you can use the encapsulator as a base
for that once it’s dried and cured you can stuff it you can use your primer
surfacer ‘he’s and you can layer that up and bodywork it and treat it like an
exterior panel I did the subframe on projects and said
sled like that and we used we blasted it seemed well did it filled it with
fiberglass use high build contour products the polyester primer surfacer with 2k on top
of that epoxy base called flat clear and it looks like it’s dipped it’s a
beautiful job and very proud of it and that was a nice way to do that a lot of
time investment but the subframe in the car looks fantastic so you can you can
use these products as a foundation I guess that’s the biggest thing that
I’m saying there is a rubberized rust encapsulator now i’m reading notes
because I want to make sure that gets you the correct information the rubberized probably doesn’t need to
be taught coated that’s fine because it’s kind of a
product in itself it’s not undercoating it’s a rust
encapsulator undercoating if you spread over rust that rest is going to shed
that stuff really really quickly this is still a rust encapsulator on the
seat frames of projects that i use the rust encapsulator i will show you see
frame this is one of the sippy cup new ones
that are worth nearly as bad but on a hands-on car show that’s coming up we’ll
get to show you what those the the new seat frames that we got and i use the
rubberized encapsulator on these and and it because it it kind of takes a little
bit of abuse it’s got a soft finish like an undercoat
but it’s not an undercoat but anyway where I also use the rubberized rust
encapsulator is underneath the wheel arches of Zen slit i used a bed liner in the back wheel
arches but inside the wheel houses in the front it’s a separate panel and i
use the rubberized and catch later part of the reason is because it’s got a nice
satin finish the other part of the reason is because it’s got some give
when you have rocks and stones debris being thrown up by your wheels it’s almost a rubber equal to rubberize
it’s a defective surface so it’s going to absorb that energy it’s got a nice textured appearance so
because we have a black vehicle i could have even gone to the extent of using
this as a rock guard on the rocker panels on the frame rails this could
have been a very effective coding on the bottom of the car it’s a nice look it’s very consistent
it’s repeatable it’s repairable and it’s it’s it’s a
finished coding in and of itself as well as having the ability to encapsulate the
rust that we starve it of oxygen that means arrest the rest is there a hundred percent
guarantee that rest will never ever come back no Neil Young was right rust never
sleeps you can the only way to get rid of rust is to
cut it out completely you or fetch it out completely or chemically dissolve it
and then convert it and then build on top of that but if you try and bury it
and cover it up it’s probably going to come back so but
the rubberized rust encapsulator is a really nice product and and it’s going
to buy you some time and be a very effective coding especially if you’ve
done your proper homework in prepping underneath these these coatings the
rubberized is available you can brush it on rolling on you can spray it on its in
aerosol as well as the the other in calculators there’s a variety of different products
please go to eastwood.com there’s a search bar in the in the upper left you can search these products the other point that I want to make just
like I was talking about the recipe that we used to to prep and beautify the
subframe on project said sled i use professional equipment I used high
solids materials I sprayed it into paint it was it was a
long process the subframe is probably eight feet long
seven feet long and it weighs about a hundred and forty-five pounds of my
memories serves me right from you know guys
talking about it’s it’s a big heavy piece of here so because of the size because of the
weight of it and because of just that was so awkward i use professional
equipment if you’re in a situation to where you’ve got something like that you
want to really do a nice job of and it’s a smaller part an intake manifold a
piece of a suspension component something small a motorcycle tank a
motorcycle frame something smaller Eastwood has some really interesting
products and and you can think outside the box and you can you can get rid of
the heavy-duty equipment having said that I’ve used what I’m going to talk to
you about on larger pieces and the the cans go a long way so let’s just say we
prepped our I don’t know our our piece of a frame rail here a suspension
component we’ve converted the rust and we’ve used
the rust encapsulator I’m satisfied that this is cured and follow the
instructions is 24 to 48 hours I’ve scuffed it up and now what I’ve got is my 2k arrow spray now
this is nothing to do with rust but I want you to think about this in in in a
way that can possibly really benefit you to Cairo spray is a catalyzed rattle-can
his professional products in a rattle can’t there’s a bladder on the bottom that you
puncture it releases the harder into the actual can and there’s a bunch of
different things this is a high build primer surfacer and it’s even black in
color and i’ve used this on some rather expensive restorations and it’s what it
is it’s a it’s a professional product in a rattle can so what I’m saying is that
you could take this and we showed you that this is a little bit of a lumpy
surface so now you can throw three or four fat
coats of the the 2k arrow spray hi build on that let it cure her out block it get it’s so
smooth that you could eat off of it then you can come back with 2k arrow
spray either with the chassis black with your choice of base coats and then clear
coated it gives you options so my point is you can take your
suspension component and you can get a conch or 100 . beautiful job restoration quality job using rattle
cans and using Eastwood rest conversion coatings and of and and rust
encapsulator it’s a really nice option to have to wear you don’t have to break
out your professional paint guns you don’t have to have the time
investment let’s face it if you’re breaking out of spray gun by the time you have material in that
gun you burnt half hour 45 minutes mixing checking your pc sheets out and
and making sure that making sure that you know all your equipment set up
property that the right air delivery rare scrubbed all kind of never mind the
equipment investment the time investment is is substantial and then once you’ve
been spraying after you’ve waited you’ve got to clean everything up and with
these guys I don’t know it to me it just simplifies
it and it allows you our slogan is do the job right it allows
you to do the job right in a very controlled environment on a smaller
scale let’s face it most of us are doing this
nights and weekends and to break out all the equipment sometimes you can burn a
half a day even getting ready for a project and then all of a sudden it’s
nine o’clock your family is wondering where the heck
you are and you just missed Susie’s dance recital again because you had to
clean your paint gun out so anyway to Cairo sprays a great
solution that you could build off of your restaurant there so having gone down that rabbit hole I want to talk about preservation
preserving or prevention of of rust making sure it doesn’t happen in the
first place the the internal frame coating that we
showed you over there on the on the the clear tube is a beautiful tool it’s a
beautiful way to coat the inside of that frame rail of that rocker panel and i’m
getting a call that you met ok yeah so I’m so the internal frame
coding is a way to do that there’s another couple of products that
really aren’t in the rest of your kind of the welding Department after well
spray it on the same way you would spray as fast as it kind of does the same
thing it phosphatides the coding and get rid of that that nasty scrub on the heat
affected zone that can rust really quickly and it’s a surface prep it preps
for welding it’s a very nice prep for primers and it’s actually in the welding
Department after World really nice thing to think about read the instructions on
exactly how to use it the other thing is something that I’ve used for years and
years as a professional repair technician as well as a hobby guy is uh
it’s a self etching well through primer after you’ve done your welds well
through primer or welding panels that are captured like a pinch weld or a door
skin spray it on both sides then well it’s a
zinc primer as it cools the zinc cools and travels into the weld pool and it
does a very nice job of preventing rust from happening preventing that corrosion
and I talked about the heavy-duty anti-rust before it’s kind of like a
waxy coating that quite literally starves the the substrate of of the
oxygenating effect it stop it stops that magic zone of of destruction from
happening so I think about rust not only as you’re
trying to fix it but think about it as you’re trying to prevent it and if
you’re spending all this time all this time that is irreplaceable in doing a
job make sure that you get that you’re
covered it from the inside so i tried to do the best I could on that Camaro and
make sure that that we had we had all the back sides covered with with all the
greatest food products and and I’m hoping that even when I’m you know dead
and gone somebody will will have that Camaro and
it’ll still be well it won’t be that i was about to say a lot of bad words
won’t be the rusty car that we found but here’s another way to think about
rest and we’ve got some questions because Matt’s on the other line I want you to come over here is another
way to think about rest rust is not always awful rest is not
always on well here i’m going to come to you Steve
for a second this is a project we did on the truck show it was the project class 6 we have the
inline six-cylinder engine and never mind me being a look at the grill we did experiment with the street racing
advanced planning part of the chrome plating process is copper it’s copper which is basically the
chrome plating process of primer surfacer then nickel and then chromium
on top of that when we left the copper there and it between is look at the
Statue of Liberty look at the potato on copper patina is what its rust is
corrosion it could be cool look at the rest of the
truck we did fake patina on this truck so I wouldn’t have to you know spend 500
hours on a paint job quite frankly and we wanted a cool look on this old truck we did fake patina on the truck you can
there’s a product in the eastwood catalog called pitch patina protector it’s a spray it’s not a permanent fix
but it’s going to start it’s going to slow that Russ down and it’s going to
arrest the process the other thing is this my table top here it’s a beautiful look and Steve’s going
to catch up this is a piece of half inch plate steel that was was outside of my
shop and I couldn’t figure out what to do with it but Jeff gallaher and I
mostly just made this beautiful table top it’s a very heavy duty tabletop and you can see you can see the
patina on it look how beautiful that is there’s different hues it’s it’s a different surface it looks
like the mood over here and it’s this cool I used facets on this I used about a
quarter of it on there i kept it wet for about 30 minutes scrubbed it in with my
my stuffing pad and then I host it all down with an acetone afterwards and it’s
not going to move its half inch plate steel this thing you could build a house
on it this could be a chassis table but my point is it just looks cool so in the right context in the right way
to think about it rust can be awesome rust could be a
really neat effect look at the rat-rod craze and you know max listen on the
other line matt i think is nodding his head rust can be cool so don’t underestimate
the power of the presentation of rest always keep your project safe always
replace trusty friend components but you know I think outside the box sometimes
and Russ can actually be kind of coding so I’m hoping that we got some
questions Matt yeah ok the yeah the question is how do you
fix rust inside a pinch weld or a folded seem like inside of a door skin where it
wraps around the outside well there’s a definite way to do that
and like I was talking about the important thing is to to expose it and
see what’s there so if I’ve got a rusty door frame and
know and adore skin wrapped around it the first thing is happening is that
that door skin is coming off so I can assess I can strip down like this and i
can assess the damage to that metal because there’s no magic bullet folks
there’s off that you can put in there the conversion coatings you can put in
there and hope but there’s nothing like knowing so pull that door skin off if it’s rusty
on the inside chances are its resting on the back side of that door skin so think
about the iceberg think about the one third of the rest that you can actually
see compared to the two thurs that’s that’s there so the other instance of that is in a
quarter panel you know you got a quarter it’s it’s bubbling through a little bit
on the backside of the wheelhouse and you think you can just patch well guess
what else is Rusted your your drop off handling your trunk your outer
wheelhouses rusted and probably rested on the top side of that quarter panel so
the the answer to that is exposed so you can see it and then patch what needs to
be there in the body panel replacement video we run into the situation I put a
real tail panel on a 70 mustang and it just never stopped we kept finding stuff what do you do you
just fix it so having said that via the world through gray primer is a really
nice way to stop that from happening again the conversion coatings the rust
encapsulator on a door skin you don’t weld it all the way around least most
people don’t so you could use the rest encapsulate
errs on the back sides of your panels and your your door skin that you replace
is probably going to be eco de electrodeposition primer and you wrap it
around attack the corners and that’s your prevention so it may not have
answer the question the way you wanted to hear it but the
truth is you’ve got to get rid of the rust and then keep it from happening
again the heavy-duty anti-rust squirted down
in between a pinch weld will really do a nice job but you don’t know how far it’s
going to creep so my answer to that is pull it apart
see what’s there if it’s worth fixing it’s worth fixing right so I hope that
answers your question ah ok the black coating on a replacement
panel it’s called EDP coding electro
deposition primer back in the day ok the question is when you’re replacing a
panel on an older truck or an older car do you get rid of that black coating or
do you leave it there these panels did not come with an EDP
coding these panels were raw they were raw cold rolled steel shipped to my door
just like that they didn’t have a coating on most panels do most patch
panels do back in the day when they first started doing that and it was an
inferior coating it was very uh just a kind of a lousy way of it was a lack of
based primer so it really worked better to strip that off get down to the metal
and and do your own coatings on it however that technology has really come
a long way in the in the last little while and I never tell people to strip
that coating off you don’t need to that is an excellent rest prevention you
can you can work right over top of it and there’s a good way to test that acetone wash dinner and looking around
I’m trying to AH do we do we do we ok write it this is a perfect example
this is e coding this is EVP coating here’s a way to test if your coat is
worth working over top of our solvent I’ve got acetone it’s a strong solvent
wash thinner brake cleaner I’m scrubbing five six seven eight nine
ten seconds I’ve got zero coming up on my rag if
this coating is inferior if it needs to be stripped off of there
I’m going to see it on my rag this is the electrodeposited primer it
is very strong and it is a bond and it is a clear barrier between your
substrate and the oxygen in the atmosphere so you don’t need to do it if
it passes the solvent test that’s the answer Matt do you know what he means by that the question is how far into clean metal
should I cut to remove the rust I think I know what you mean by that
let’s look on our on our poor forlorn chevy pickup what what he’s asking is how far into
the metal into this metal should I cut before i start replacing
that metal well if you can see the backside that’s great sometimes you
can’t and I understand that so what I always typically do and this
is rusty and bubbled right there what I always typically do is give it
about two-thirds my two-thirds rule rust is an iceberg one-third of physics is
exposed two thirds of it is hidden so i’m going to go here let’s just ok I’ve stopped being bubble
dressed by about an inch out so i’m going to go another two inches just to
make sure and i’m going to cut that piece out and i’m going to give it a
long hard look and if i see rust past where I’ve cut then I’m still cut and
i’m still replacing and if i need to replace that whole panel that’s great
but typically use the two-thirds method the third of the exposed breasts cut two
thirds past that and that should be a good ratio so I hope that answers that
question that’s the way I think about that if I’m not replacing the whole
panel so ok who ok the question is when doing a flanged
panel replacement should you flange on the original panel or should you flange
on the patch this is a great question and there’s
it’s going to be the last question that we answer and now we’re ready for the
unexpected attached to come up it’s it’s kind of a complicated answer
and if I’m sectioning a panel there’s a couple of different things that they did
from the original factories that people think their style lines people think
that they’re there for aesthetics the truth is these style lines these
folds these ridges on the top of the fender – Pete door in the middle of said said
the peak that goes front to rear the whole car yes its aesthetic but it’s also
structural in that when their strength built-in Ron covell did a wonderful demo
of this when he dont a piece of stainless steel that you could walk up
into into almost like a handful and then he’d owned it and you couldn’t even move
it so what I’m saying is these style lines and I want to be laboring this
point for a reason these style lines are there to increase strength in the panel
to create the dome so it doesn’t collapse in its own weight so when I’m sectioning a panel I’m
utilizing these style lines as a strength . i don’t want to cut here
because that’s flexible right here not flexible so if I’m replacing this
lower door skin I’m coming down here and I’m counting on
and I’m building off of the strengths in this style line so having said that if my cut line is
here hang on steep it might cut line here’s my style I just in case you guys
can’t see if my cut line is right here well of course the Sharpie burns out I’m
an idiot all right there we go if my cut line is
here I’m utilizing the strength that stamped
into this panel so this doesn’t fly so having said that I’ve just tried to
preserve the crown of this door and if my panel is going to go in underneath
that if I’m doing a lap weld I’m not going to flange this because
it’s going to do what it’s going to distort the top of the store that I’m
trying to save the shape up so I’m going to flange on my replacement
panel and not on my door skin because even if you flange and it you crowned it maybe you run it through an English well
maybe you didn’t maybe it’s crowd a little bit from the factory and and you
straighten it out by flagging it you can you can manipulate your patch way easier
than you can correct this after having been flanged so the answer to that in very simple terms is that you flange
on your replacement piece not on the original panel and I’ve seen guys you always want to preserve as much of
the original shape of the cars as possible and I’ve seen guys section on
these style lines and to me you have to you have to do more work you have to
recreate that style line and yes you can kind of depend on the strength of that
too to do your joint to do your butt welder your plans will but to preserve
that you can build off of that and create the illusion of a solid piece of
metal just like it was from the factory if you
retain your factory style lines and that’s just my way of doing it the beautiful thing about this hobby in
this industry in this trade is that there’s more than one right way to do it
and my way is to preserve as much of the original stamping shaping as possible
and build off of that so I I i think that i know we didn’t cover every aspect
of rust repair but I hope we showed you some really great techniques and tools
and products to battle the ongoing battle of rust rust never sleeps and and
you can almost hear it ticking at night if you shut the lights off of your shop
I certainly could on said sled but but you know where where the stewards of these
vehicles it’s our job to preserve them and keep them here as long as we
possibly can so they could then be enjoyed by generations of other people
and along the way we get to put our own sense of style on him so it’s a
beautiful thing to be a part of so like I said we always tell you guys do the
job right that do the job right with eastwood and with education and with the
resources that are out there go to our YouTube channel go to eastwood
videos on youtube I’ll go to the website we’ve got the
restoration there’s all kinds of information out there and it did not
even just with Eastwood there’s all kinds of great information out there on
the web for you guys to soak up and absorb there’s nothing that takes the
place of good old-fashioned experience and mistakes but we want to help you get
a little bit farther ahead so we hope we’ve done that hope you we showed you some of some
great products and and ways to use them and I also want to say that we’re going
to be we’re going to be popping out a few more of these live streams between
now and the end of the year we’ve got one scheduled at least once every month
so keep up with us I’ll keep blasting them on facebook on
my page on and these would Facebook page will will light them up we’ll get him out there sending what you
guys wanted to talk about as well it it’s it’s that important that you guys
communicate to us we learn as much from you as you do from us hopefully and and
tell us what you need to see so having said that thank you guys for
watching thank you guys for watching education
the TV shows the eastwood TV hands on cars on the YouTube channel and and and
we’re here for you so let us know what you need to let us know what you want to
see and in the meantime zet sled is going to
get tuned and hands-on car shows are going to show the the final process of
that of that build I’m so excited about that keep on
watching hands on cars so for now thank you so much for watching i’m kevin gates and we’ll see you next
time yeah yeah

29 thoughts on “Rust Solutions You Need to Know About from Eastwood – with Kevin Tetz

  1. Can you show us what your talking about with the flange repair. Should It be spot welded or hole punch and spot welded through. Or use some kind of panel adhesive and hold that in place with tech screws. Or is butting the panels up next to one another the better repair. Maybe just examples of when to use a flange and where not to flange

  2. First off I love the videos and Eastwood but there is some conflicting information with the encapsualters and rust converter applications if you watch all the videos. I want to do my frame once a do it right without seeing it rusting in a year or two.Is just wire brushing, pre or a grease remover then doing the encapsulator then chassis black extreem good enough or do I have to do the rust converter first?

  3. Can you use fast etch on random metal spots that have been sanded through when you block the hi build primer? will the fast etch ever hurt the epoxy base layer or the polyester or high build primer? just curious as we have all had spots where we sanded through the primer while blocking and it sits in bare steel spots for a few days before touching up with epoxy then another coat of high build. obviously i can sand these small spots to be sure i was just checking on the product info

  4. What happens if you don't remove the fast etch completely and try to paint it. My truck frame is only starting to show the slightest signs of rust and I am thinking of using fast etch to remove the rust, then spraying and anti-rust primer to prevent further rusting. Finally I would add a rubberized undercoat on top to protect from chipping. Is there anything wrong with this method? Any suggestions?

  5. The frame tube spray thingy needs a pinwheel at the end to disperse the coating outward. What I witnessed was a bit of a fail. Let me know where I can collect my royalties for this industry changing idea of mine. I will take payment in Fast Etch and Prep Spray.

  6. Exactly, I have tried to tell so many people for years, Aluminum CAN rust. It's just a different metal. All types of rust are simply corrosion. Thanks for saying it out loud.

  7. Great info!!! I don't know about anyone else but this video is so blurry it is almost useless. Maybe it's just my machine.

  8. Thanks Eastwood, and thanks for opening a store in Parma Ohio, I'm going there today for advice for my chevelle frame.

  9. I just use a garden sprayer with ATF and bar and chain oil mix in it, connected to a piece of aquarium tube with the end plugged with a piece of dowel rod and four holes drilled just before the dowel plug. Shove it throughout your frame and spray away. Works great.

  10. Definitely blurry looks like a video from 1980s. Camera guy Steve needs to get his prescription renewed on his glasses.

  11. I have a question for u guys. Im working on a 1977 Lincoln continental. I will be doing a full frame off restoration. Should i treat the rust on the fenders to stop the damage. Till i patch the hole. Or wait till i patch the hole?

  12. Does anyone have any tips on how to take off just the first layer of paint off and not the original paint underneath? I have a truck that has been poorly painted over the original paint job and the original paint job had original lettering on the doors that I would like to get to so I can restore the truck with original paint color, scheme, and lettering.

  13. Not only ferrous metals oxidize. Aluminum comes to mind…

    Edit: Posted that about 45 seconds too prematurely. lol

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