Rust Repair Panel DIY – Patch Panel & Installation Kit for your Car from Eastwood

Rust Repair Panel DIY – Patch Panel & Installation Kit for your Car from Eastwood

all right today what we’re going to do
is sew sew a patch panel here get this mg fender here with a guy wants to
repair and you can see it’s a lot of legwork and from the back side we saw a
lot of holes back here so we gotta cut this out a couple different ways that we
can do what we’re going to do is probably gonna come across maybe blend down or come into here you
can see we’ve got a compound is a 90-degree another 90 degree coming back
here and a 90-degree fendt been with them just like maybe five six spot welds so what you need to do this you guys
pretty much have already made welder safety your glasses gloves always when
working with sheet metal 4-inch grinder and pick up some of our flaps these
things are great both for a well prep you’ll see how this will remove any of
this surface rust in a moment and then well blending real nice they run pretty
cool so you not workin metal pencil or a scribe I like using pencils one sheet metal
instead of sharpie sometimes using a sharpie on there you don’t get wiped off clean you go
ahead to start building your privates and it starts bleeding throw a tape
measure tape itself a square now cut metal to the choices you can hand job
with some snips here or to make this nice electric shear which I’ll use that
just to show you how cuts it’s great you can do scroll cutting general radiuses
straight line but the heart of it is our patch panel kit and this is the kit
opened up here this is great just pretty much gives you
all the necessary other than answer layer here to get the job done our new 16 seeming pliers these things
are great these are equivalent to a small break self drilling screws here these are used when you want to do any
type of patches in the floor you go ahead Julia patch panel drill
some holes around here forward to what you want and run your
sheet metal screws in there pulls up the old floor onto the new metal being go ahead and do your perimeter well pull
out the screws and just do plug welds double-ended 316 drill bits here with
these are used for us for doing a plug weld holds and we’ll show you that so let’s go ahead and get started first
thing you see I got this up on our fender stand and if you just do a little
bit of body work and sand on the fender it’s fine you can lay it over but if
you’re ever going to do any like we’re going to do a lot of work here’s a little trick right there just
tack it to the stamp you come across your cutoff wheel zip it off what it does is a lot more
sturdier than chasing this thing all over the horse itself so last part the metal itself what this is this is
our aluminized steel this is the same aluminized material
that a lot of the large exhaust manufacturers are using for corrosion
resistance and that’s what we offer that way when you go ahead and put the patch
panel in here your backside we’re going to tell you go
ahead and private but you got the peace of mind that you’re not going to have
any corrosion starting to get a bunch of these 1 inch wide strips I’ll show you some tricks here these are
going to be used for our call backers to go ahead and get your patch panels
coming couple 12 x 12 and 12 x 24 so you can see and do some large patches
with this cut it out you can do a lot of small
holes one of these kits will get you pretty much ha depending on the severity of the
corrosion you have on the vehicle it could do everything that you have on now
for a fraction of the price of a replacement panel so we’re going to go
ahead and get started here we’re going to do is find an area what we’re going to do here either come
across or that market go ahead and flap discs and on this side
here we’ll get the corrosion off in here start drilling out the spot welds yeah all right we got the spot wells drilled
out you can see we’re down there two metals really weeks what we’re gonna do
it our patch manager to come around their reports that area you can come in here now just slowly
pull the metal top piece here right off your base structure got a ground down here on this side
where the spot welds we’re coming across here when things you want to do never have this sharp 90-degree corner
here just take a file break that corner just never end up with a sharp corner on
any kind of sheet metal work trustee manila folder can’t go wrong
with your just gonna get quick rough size we know we need about a three
quarter inch overhang there we’re going to need a 90 on the bottom
so the easiest quickest way to get lines on this is just take your drill you get a real good idea of your rough
opening see we’re gonna come around come down here capture this same overhang but
then right here what we do is just brought it out go the area where missing
metal here catch that corner up and it comes across hills and then under here same thing we’re going to keep this
90-degree flange running all the way back so what you can see is this is what
you’re trying to do a Butt well here attacking Matt on there and as long as
your template your patterns cut exactly the dimension to your opening that’ll work out but if for any reason
you have to do adjustment we end up with a gap you have a problem here either cut
a new model or you’re trying to fill in what you don’t want to do is try
bridging that gap with your MIG well because of it you know the weld deposit is going to be
more brittle and surrounding here that’s where you’re gonna get your cracks you’ll see the hairline in now your
primer levels alright so what we’ll do to eliminate
any of the fitment here going to use doublers and that’s what these strips
are for their included with the kit and this can be done for a small you know
eight and a half inch patch like we’re doing here for the full run of a quarter
panel the process is done the same what we’re
going to do is we’re going to cut these two lengths they’re going to fit behind
here at the doubler you see they’re about an inch why so we’re going to do is put half inch up
here we’re going to drill some 316 plug weld holds now we clamp it plug weld it now that’s
your doubler you’re backing plate so now when your patch panels in there
if you have any little miss fits right in there were just alignment doesn’t
work out go ahead and now you’re welding to the
dr back up late and to the main peace here great for strength and also
just to take up like I said any of the little issues now with this being aluminized on here
we’re not gonna have to worry about any type of corrosion in the seam never what
we will do is I will spray it with some of our well through primers just two out just give a little bit more insurance
same thing with the back of this panel first what we want to do though pick a size it’s close to your template
here and and unfold your template mark your bends again all we’re doing is following in
our folder template go ahead use your seeming pliers things are great my six inch lengths
covers a lot of your panel just get on your bed line a nice flat surface you just get you 90 degree breakdown and
what I’m going to do is run been just a quarter of it up since this is longer slowly work it that way you have a very
uniform then we’ll do is we’ll just keep working that up do this Bend fold it
over a couple minutes and i’ll have a patch just going to drill a couple holes
here recreate the spot welds just do this with three 16-bit little trick with
sheet metal he was going to end up with that burr on
there rotary deburring tool is the best thing you don’t have it just a quick one is drill bit up three
sizes up from what you’re using to clean it up real nice behind here we’re going
to plug weld down so i want to do is more same thing about an inch apart and
when you’re drilling these another trick if you can hold your ground trying to
like this and ran through the edge of that you can end up pushing and warp and
give yourself a backer block yeah go ahead and cut your backer I think thing like sharp corners that
easier to weld angle corner let’s say from the skin you can clamp
this you got any type of vice grips well the
clamps whatever you want to do you show your prototype fear of our new spot well
plier guys great all right now we just got done with top
ones here you see they look almost like factory spot welds but actually plug
welds want to do is same thing take our backer and think think we’re just gonna we want
up the lights will get more TechEd in these are easy to grind their flat this
takes them right off what it does is now it gives you here’s
a but well where you want to be right up in there now we cut this we got pretty lucky gonna cut it worked
out pretty good but if you’re a little offer you got to fit you now can weld to
your backer well your original metal to the backer
and then fill it go ahead and blend it and you’ve got a nice sort of concave
well which is perfect to begin if you do need a skim coat if you wanna just come
up with your filler surfacers we just line up our patch it’s going to work out real nice down
here you can see that it’s still going to clamp right in place right there come up along this side just going to go
ahead and just a corner here really well in here spots come across here to attack so
we’re going to do is going to just start working work here a little here keep moving around filling it in what
we’re going to do is she had just two quick stitch well we’re going to do is
just to burst just hold it for you know just a moment
less than a second – 45 together they move to another area
and come back that’s it now what you do you come move somewhere
else get a couple more in and keep moving
around now you see what just a couple minutes
of grinding just a few quick hits with it with a 60 grit flap is how quickly
levels that bead right off of there now be able to come back smooth it was a real nice interesting
panel back side here well prime where we can leave it as is
we see where we have solid portman here with the welds through there and then
they patch panel piece into our backer tied into the original piece of steel

29 thoughts on “Rust Repair Panel DIY – Patch Panel & Installation Kit for your Car from Eastwood

  1. Instead of the backup strip, use Eastwood's Intergrip Panel Clamps (Item #19016) for the butt welds. They work great.

  2. @vcval had to mod my post vice typing a second one. I would think flanging would be the ticket on this. Eastwood had me thinking that flanging is the way to go but that's been many moons ago. But even back then I was wondering if flanging a panel is a moisture trap even if the panels are coated with weldable primer. Just trying to figure out if butt welding is now the bestter way or if it just depends on the job. Been a little over 12 years since I took body and fender classes time to revisit.

  3. @6806goats1 , if you use the eastwood flange tool for this job it would have gone faster and been neater although it has the potential to be a moisture trap this can be solve by leadfilling the gap. As long as the metal can support a butt joint i think that is the way to go , unless it is a structural joint and the flange forms part of the structure like sale panels to quarter panel joins , so i guess it does depend on the job

  4. For a job like that our Eastwood MIG 175 would do the job, or if you prefer TIG, our TIG 200 would also do the job. You can find those on our website. -EW

  5. You can get seam pliers, drill bits, spot weld bits, and sheet metal screws from Harbor Freight and spend less than half the money. Sheet metal from any hardware like Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet. DIY projects, save money where you can!

  6. Unlike most metal sold at local supply stores, this metal is aluminized which resists corrosion. If you price out the same items elsewhere, you will see the value of this kit.

  7. How about this welding video?  Are YOU an Eastwood Guy?  Check out this video from Eastwood to find out:
    Dirty Harry Welder Dream – Stop Dreaming & Get A MIG Welder – Are You An Eastwood Guy?

  8. Look at the rust issues on any vintage car and most involve 2 layers of metal spot welded together.  The factory uses these seam types primarily to speed up the assembly process.  Why would you want to add an unnecessary layer that will create a rust problem all over again?  This should be a straight up butt weld repair.  Proper fitment and trimming would eliminate the need for a backer strip that will cause more rust. 

  9. this is fine for a mg…..but never for a classic chevy….this some messed up patch work….this is how not to restore a car….

  10. eastwood stepped up to the plate big this is awesome they are learning as they go so show some support to these dudes not easy for the you tube shift

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *