Ripping Apart CR250 Brakes For Something Special!


welcome back to another video my project
for today is I’ll be working on some breaks and prepping them for something
special but first I’m gonna give you a little update on the cr250 build all
right this is how she sits got the pegs and triples mounted up on the frame and
the frame is bolted down to the scissor lift so most likely I’ll finish up the
engine get it bolted in and then start building around that alright coming over
to the shelf here suspensions all built ready to go swing arms ready to bolt on
and then the wheels are completely done that’s a big deal and then come up to
the workbench where nothing is put together engine is completely apart all
the way down the crank tranny cases clutch all that so I’ll be getting parts
in soon and I’ll be starting the build process one more box over here a bunch
of fresh aluminum pieces so I’ve got a lot of stuff that’s ready to go the
biggest thing holding it up is the engine but I’m in no hurry I’m just
taking my time and enjoying every step of the process ok on to today’s project
I’ll be disassembling all the brakes sending up the master cylinders for
welding and then prepping everything for ceramic coating so the reason I have to
print brake systems here is because I’ll be using a different front master
cylinder I prefer the ones off of a newer CRF this one’s off of a 15 CRF 450
so I’m just gonna Rob the cylinder off of it and sell the rest of it I find
that the newer master cylinders work a lot smoother than the older ones here’s
the difference between the two master cylinders this is the one off the so
three cr250 and this is the 15 the 15 uses a push rod style that has a lot of
free motion in it whereas the O 3 just uses a fixed piston so there’s a lot
more friction with the O 3 or the older style whereas the newer style has a much
smoother lever action this is kind of getting off topic but while I’m on the
subject of using newer parts there’s a few more things I robbed off the 15 as
well so I’ve got the pegs and PEG mounts to the peg mounts have this little dirt
shield in front of it and then the pegs are a lot wider and they don’t pack up
with as easily and then I’ve got brake rotors
off of a newer CRF as well these things look so much better than the ones that
came on the o3 and all this stuff just bolts right on alright enough chatter
the first thing to lock out is the tear apart the CRF brakes I’m gonna pull these master cylinders
apart and get them ready for welding I’ll play about the welding a little bit
later on so I think there are circlips underneath the rubber boots here and
that should expose the piston and I’ll be able to pull the guts out of the
cylinder have you got the push rod out and pulling this boot should expose the
circlip yep as you can see there’s a circlip down in there and once I pull
that the internals will come out of the cylinder these are the circlip pliers
that I’ll be using just got two fine points here on the end I had a switch
off the tips on the pliers for the angled ones since it’s a really tight
fit down here in the cylinder so I rotated that circlip around so I have
enough of a gap here just the squeeze the pliers in and access that clip this
is a really tight fit to be tough getting this clip out of here since I will be Sarah coding these
master cylinders all the plastic glass and rubber has to come off so there’s a
little plastic cap here on the inside of the reservoir and I’ll need to pop that
out that’s all there is to the front master actually a lot less parts than I
was imagining now I’m gonna see what I can do with the
rear the rear is much of the same just a circlip underneath the boot I’ve got these master stoners completely
apart now and like I said earlier I’ll be sarkodie so this glass is gonna be an
issue and that’s why I’m sending him out to get welded so both of these sight
windows are gonna be closed off and welded shut I’m sending him out to
Clayton over at trick engineering to do the work
I’m sure a lot of you guys have heard of them he does some amazing machining work
and he does Sarah coding as well the biggest reason why people well the site
windows is because of something hits it such as a rock from roost you’ll lose
your brake fluid and therefore your brakes but for me it’s mostly so I can
seracote em but also doesn’t hurt to not have to worry about breaking those site
windows – just for the heck of it since these site windows are getting taken out
anyways I’m gonna see how strong they are
I’ve always been curious about that so say you’re ripping along and someone
kicks up a rock this size and just by chance it hits your site window let’s
see what would happen so I’ve been hammering on this glass with the rock
and it’s actually quite a bit stronger than I imagined not really doing much to
it let’s see what the front sight window is like so all in all the sight windows
are actually pretty strong but I can’t simulate throwing a rock at 60 miles an
hour coming off a rear tire either so there’s that all right the Masters are
ready to ship out for welding and as soon as I get them back I’ll be sarah
coating them so I mentioned trick engineering a little bit earlier for you
guys that want to have your site windows welded up or any machining work or Sarah
coding done make sure you get ahold of Clayton over at trick engineering he is
the master of ceremony by the way I’ll put his website down below at the very
least just go check out his Instagram he’s got some amazing work over there
now it is time to strip down the calipers and I’ll be trying out this
motion pro caliper piston tool that I grabbed from rocky mountain so from the
looks of it this motion pro tool it’s inside the piston just like so and
then you tighten down the allen head on the end and that’ll lock the tool into
the piston and now you have leverage to remove the piston from the caliper I was able to work the piston most of
the way out with tool and I should be able to get the last little bit with my
hand just be really careful not to scratch the piston and when it pops out I’m definitely glad I’m going through
this caliper you can see down inside the caliper there is little rubber bits from
the seals and the seals are a little eaten up as well another method for
pushing out the Pistons is to put some compressed air into the caliper and
that’ll push the Pistons out but make sure you tuck a rag in where the piston
sit that way they don’t come flying out since my air compressor gun just has
this fine point on it I’ll be blowing air into the banjo bolt and if you have
a two piston caliper like this one you may have to hold one piston so that way
the other one will come out so I put the piston I pulled out back in and I’m
gonna hold it with a socket and a clamp here so that should hold this piston in
well I can push the other one out as you can see this other piston is starting to
work its way out I’m just gonna keep blowing some more air into the banjo
bolt alright I pulled the clamp off and I should be able to get both Pistons out
with just applying a little bit more air I was able to get both Pistons out of
the caliper without somehow hurting myself now I’m just gonna inspect them
make sure there’s no Nick’s or scratches here on the outside surface of the
piston they both look pretty good so no need for replacement on these now for
removing the seals out of the caliper I’ll be using this 90 degree pick and
you got to be really careful not to scratch the inside bore of the caliper with the rear caliper being a single
piston this one should be easy-peasy now there’s just a couple things left to
pull up the calipers to prep them for seracote mainly the rubber pieces the
bleeder valve and the carrier pins as you can see I’ve got the brakes
completely apart and real quick I’m just gonna pick the winner for the giveaway
from the last video I’ve got my comment picker pulled up here just gonna run the
video through and it’ll pick a complete random comment for you guys see how many
comments we got 990 not bad alright who we got Jeff segi Leah says 2010 CRF 250r
so Jeff send me a message here on YouTube with your shipping address and
I’ll have Rocky Mountain ship you one of these wrenches with that out of the way
it is time to do some sarah coding I’ll be coding the caliper carriers master
cylinder caps and a few other odds and ends and I’ll wait until I get those
masters back for welding to do the calipers and master cylinders I’m gonna
clean up a few these pieces over here on the buffer using the rough scotch brite
wheel that’s available over on the website and what this is gonna do is
remove all the lettering and bring these parts to a nice clean finish all right I’ve got these parts all
cleaned up and looking good and now I’ve got the sanding drum set up on the
buffer and this is gonna flatten out the master cylinder covers perfectly I’ve
got these parts sanded down and looking pretty and now the first step in the
sarah coding process is to soak these parts in acetone for 30 minutes
one thing I came across the use for a container for acetone is some plastics
are safe to use with acetone if you flip it over and on the bottom here we’ve got
the little triangle if it says PP underneath the triangle or HDPE that
means it is safe to use of acetone or this type of plastic will hold up to
acetone so I’ll be using this one for the soaking process and I’m sure most
you know acetone evaporates really quickly so nice to have a lid to contain
the acetone in the container the next step is sandblasting this is what it looks like after the
parts have been sandblasted and now I’m gonna hang them from the rack and run
them through the oven for a preheat I’m gonna let these parts cool off and
in the meantime I’m gonna mix up some seracote materials this time around I’m
gonna go with a tungsten color and I’m gonna mix the color and the catalyst at
a 12 to one ratio after an hour of caring these guys
should be good to go so I’m gonna pull them out and take a look at them looking
sweet pretty dang excited about this color turned out awesome it should look
really good with the calipers and master cylinders speaking to them what color do
you think I should do on them I’ve done a tungsten this color right here and a
burnt bronze on the triple clamps so what color do you think would look good
write it down below I’ve got a quick update for you guys on prime MX just got
some new inventory in stock and I’ll be launching it this upcoming Sunday April
15th at 10:00 a.m. Pacific that’s 1 p.m. Eastern so this hat right here will be
part of the launch it is similar to the other style head just with a few minor
changes and I’ve also got a new hat style as well all right here is the new
hat style all black with a curved bill got mesh on the back and a snap back
just a nice clean simple look with some subtle text here for you guys that like
minimal branding and the other hat is pretty similar
just with a heather gray front and the embroidery is actually 3d looks super
cool so I got a feeling these are gonna sell out really quick just like the
previous launch did so mark your calendars for Sunday April 15th so the
next video and the brakes will be sarah coding the calipers and master cylinders
let me know what color you think I should do and I’ve also got everything
to completely rebuild the brakes so that video will be coming soon too and big
thank you to Rocky Mountain for sending over this stuff alright that’s it for
today’s video I look forward to seeing you guys in the next one
take care you

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *