Polaris Sportsman Lower Ball Joint Replacement | Partzilla.com

Polaris Sportsman Lower Ball Joint Replacement | Partzilla.com


Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today we’re going to be working on our 2011 Polaris Sportsman 850. In particular, we’re
going to be looking at the front ball joint. That little booger right there.
We actually have four of them, there are two on either side. So I did a pre-ride inspection
the other day, when you bring up the machine you could rock the front tire from side-to-side
and it really looks like it needs to be replaced. So, we’re going to bring this up in the air,
get that front tire pulled off, and look into getting this thing replaced.
So let’s get started. That was fun. Now, look at that. Wasn’t a
whole lot left holding that in. Alright, our pivot points up top at the frame?
I’d say those bushings are worn out as well, so we’re going to replace those too.
Looking at the end of those little zerk fittings, where you’re supposed to grease this? I don’t
think they’ve ever been used. That just doesn’t sound very healthy does it?
Alright, so let’s just go ahead and get those out.
What you can do to get to that front one– what you have up there are two 15mm bolts.
Feed your extension through here, put on your socket, and then thread it through onto that
front one. What I’m doing now is just knocking the bolt
out. Alright, go ahead and shake her out of there.
Now I’ll take this and get some of that dirt knocked off of it and then we’ll go through
the process of taking out that ball joint and possibly replacing these inner bushings
because they are dry as a bone. Alright guys, we’ve got our press moved right
over here. The first thing we need to do is just go ahead and remove the circlip and then
we can actually push this thing through. You may not have one of these things sitting in
your garage. This is the correct way to do it, but I would imagine if you hit it hard
enough you could probably drive it out with a hammer, but I don’t particularly want to
show you how to do that. We’re going to show you the right way to do
it. First thing we need to do is take of the circlip
on the end. This takes a little bit of manipulation. You
need a collar to drive it through so that collar needs to be a little bit bigger than
the backside just so it has got a little space to drive it through.
I’m cheating a little bit. I’m actually using a socket to drive it from the top.
Get all that balanced together, and we can start driving it through.
A fair amount of pressure. It’s not extreme. Like I said, you could probably drive it through
with a hammer. Now I got it broken loose and I think we can finish it up just going directly
on the end of it. There. Told you.
Now, we can grab our new one and get it pushed back in there.
Alright, just do it until she bottoms out. All we need to do is install our snap ring
just like that. Make sure she’s in the groove all the way around.
It feels a lot better than that old one– the way it should be.
Alright, let’s take a look next at our pivot points up at the frame. To do that, let’s
bring back over our teardown bench, grab those bolts, and see just how much play there was
in there. Aright, so let’s take a look at our bushings
now. Just grabbing one of the bolts that was holding it together, and see how much play
is in there? Obviously this thing has never been greased.
That zerk fitting is completely clogged up, so that made it wear.
So let’s go ahead and knock it apart so I can show you the different pieces it’s made
up of. Alright. You’ve got your outer bushing, which
is basically a piece of plastic. Then you have this inner, actually the bushing itself,
which is actually metal. It’s covered over with grime which you’re going to see. This
should have grease all around it, which would allow it to pivot back and forth instead of
wearing because there was no grease. Just this mud and muck. So what it did in stead
of pivoting in here like that, it is pivoting on this, and that’s what caused it to wear.
That’s why it’s really important to make sure you keep these things greased, otherwise this
is what you end up with. Go ahead and finish knocking the other section
out. So, what to do next?
We want to go ahead and replace all of these pieces: the inner bushing, the outer bushing,
and then as well as the main bolt that goes straight through it.
So give me a few minutes, let me go get these parts, and then we’ll start reassembling it.
Alright guys, I got the rest of the assembly pulled apart and cleaned up. I went to the
stock room, picked up our new bushings, pivot pins, and our three bolts. I mean that should
really get us back to square one again. So, basically assembly is just the reverse
of how we pulled it apart, but we want to make sure that we coat each piece with a little
bit of grease as we’re putting it back together. Then actually fill up the entire junction
with a zerk grease gun. So let’s get this thing put back together.
Go ahead and knock in just one of your bushings to begin with in each one.
Get those centered back up. Like that. Just to show you the difference, look at that.
It doesn’t move compared to what we did have. Alright, putting her back together is just
the opposite of the way we took it apart. I’ll show you a little trick. You’ve got a
blind bolt like that where you can’t get in there to hold it, a little bit of electric
tape, just to the edge of the bolt. It doesn’t take a lot. You want to be able to take the
socket off so you just run right up to that edge.
Just like that. Alright, we want to go ahead and fill up those
areas. You want to do this until you barely see it squirting out the sides.
Remember what it sounded like before? How much it moved around? That’s what we want.
Right there. Alright, that’s all the way through. You want
to make sure that you’ve got it where that groove was so the bolt can go through.
Alright guys, I’ve gotten everything tightened back down and I went ahead and put this little
boot axle protector– the one on the front. As you can tell, it really straightened out
the problem. With this particular setup, for this particular machine this time, it was
just the lower ball joint as well as the lower control arm bushings that were worn out. May
want to take a look at your top one as well as your top bushings. Make sure you get in
there and get those greased, other wise they’re going to suffer the same fate as the ones
down at the bottom. Listen, if you need any of the parts come
see us at partzilla.com. If there’s anything that I missed, you couldn’t tell what I was
doing, or if you had a question about it, just leave it in the comment section below
and I’ll try to answer it. And until the next video we just wanted to say thanks for watching
and keep coming back.

13 thoughts on “Polaris Sportsman Lower Ball Joint Replacement | Partzilla.com

  1. I have a 09 sportsman 550xp. when I have the machine sitting still. I can move the handlebars back and fourth just a little and can feel some slop. not a lot but you can tell it's there. what would that be?

  2. We have a '12 RZR 900 XP and getting ready to replace our ball joints and control arm bushings also. Your video helped with some ideas of how we will do this. We will get a ball joint press (available to rent from an auto parts store), snap ring pliers, a drill and wire brush (to clean the bores of the ball joints and the bushings), as well as the standard tools to disassemble. Thank you for your time to record this video. You can also see mods we have done to the RZR 900 XP on our you tube page.

  3. Love the video but I can get the old ball joint to come out of the steering knuckle. I removed the pinch bolt and I have tried manipulating it to get the right angle and hitting it with a soft blow hammer. Thanks

  4. Curious – is this a neglected and abused quad that you can conveniently use for repair videos, or are all these things common issues on a Polaris 850?

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