PART 2 CHEVY C10 FRONT SHOCK TOWERS | Fabricating and TIG Welding New Shock Mounts

PART 2 CHEVY C10 FRONT SHOCK TOWERS | Fabricating and TIG Welding New Shock Mounts


Alright, this bracket that we just cut out This is basically exactly where I need it
to be Now this one here, we’re going to have to
do a little bit of grinding And a little bit of fitting To get it to fit the way I need it to But we’ll get to that here in just a second There’s one really important thing that
I need to double check And I mentioned the clutch mechanism earlier So I’m going to set up my GoPro… I got
the tripod We’re going to kind of point it in that
manner right there Because I have the app on my phone and I can Watch in realtime… or almost realtime, There is a little bit of a delay But, I can watch what happens when I depress
the clutch How close does it actually get to this bracket Cause if it interferes with the bracket Then we’re going to have to come up with
something else If it does not, then we just motor on So, let me get all the camera gear setup And we’ll check for some interference, OK Ok, I know it’s pretty dark out here Let’s test this thing Just put a little pressure down on the clutch Alright I can see it moving There is a little bit of a delay between what’s
filmed And what show’s up here on my phone Go a little bit further Still not touching Let’s go all the way to the floor Still not touching I guess there’s a little bit more travel
there That’s real close That’s real close… But I don’t think I ever need to push my
clutch down that far To disengage… or to change gears So, we may be alright Try it again It’s just so hard to tell I think we’ll be ok I think we’ll be ok.. If I need to I can Notch a little bit, and make clearance But… I think we’re going to be OK It does overlap a little bit but I think… I think we can work with that Alright, let’s keep going So I’ve been spending some time With this piece right here I had to bend over these edges and that was
pretty simple All I really did was go over to the vice and Chuck it up in the vice, and just kind of
bonk it over But we’re getting close, we’re making
a little bit of progress This top part, I think I over-bonked it I think I need to take a little bit of bend
out of that This… the bottom part definitely needs to
be bent some more And then there’s going to be, certainly
some grinding And more fitting… So… So far I’ve actually got at least 45 minutes
in this piece And there’s going to be some more time put
into it So let me go work on it some more and then
I’ll bring you back Ok, after a little more tweaking on this piece It’s kinda ugly looking… But the fit is pretty darn good So my arm’s going to be in the way here
for just a second Let me get the bolt in there I’m just going to hold that So the fit’s pretty alright I can live with that and I think I’m running
a little low on material To make a new one of these So I think that’s kind of out of the question Really not going to know until the end of
the project But I can live with this… So, I put a few marks on here I want to lop this off… I want to kind of take this corner off so
I made a mark down here Which you can kind of, barely see So I’m gonna kinda go from this point across And cut it off there So I’ve made a few marks on each side… One there… we’ll kind of fatten these
up a little bit One there… and another one coming down that
way So, when I unclamp this thing I can put it right back where it is right
now Which is where it needs to be So… let me take this off We’ll lop that little corner off And then we will start making a few other
pieces So I took all my pieces off We made this cut here along the bottom And then I went and took the grinder and just
cleaned everything up Got all the mill scale off of both these parts Cause we’re getting kinda close to the point
that we need to start tack welding These things together But there’s really two more pieces that
we need to make And the one we’re going to make next Is another bracket that’s going to go On top of the framerail right here Kinda going inwards So I’ve already been on my back And I have the measurement that goes basically From this inner face of the bracket To the inside edge of the frame And that’s 2” Now what I need to know, is the cross section How long is that little piece of material
going to be So, I’m going to measure it off… And I hope my arm’s not in the way I’m looking at 2 and 5/8” So we’ve got 2 and 5/8” going across like
that 2” going in And we’re also going to drill one little
hole in there as well So let’s go to the workbench and make that
piece Ok, here’s our little piece I went ahead and took all the mill scale off
this one as well Because, like I said, we’re getting pretty
close to having To tack weld these things into place And quite frankly I’ve got this piece positioned Basically perfectly And I’d like to not have to take that off Until I get everything tack welded So this piece, hopefully my arm’s not in
the way too much Like I said, it’s going to go… Up, and behind there like that So it seems to fit pretty good I’m not sure… yeah, I guess you guys can
see it That fits pretty ok So there’s another piece that we need to
make Before we can take this off But for that one we need to put the shock
back in place So I’ve already been rolling around on my
back And getting all the measurements that I need The next piece that we have to cut out Is our top piece that’s going to go over
the post on the shock Now, like I said, I just got all my measurements We need a 2”x2” square piece of steel With a hole in the center And I’ve yet to determine the size of the
hole that we need But this is why I don’t want to take these
parts off Because this shock is actually at an angle
going in towards the frame So that corresponding plate up at the top Now it has to be perpendicular to the shock But since the shock is at an angle It’s not going to be 90 degrees to our bracket It actually has to be canted upwards like
that to match the shock So we’ll get all this taken out This is where it comes in real handy to strap
your shock down And get it to the exact length you want Because once I get that plate cut out Then I can just bolt it to the shock And then hang this in place And then tack weld the plate to the bracket And our shock will be… Or at least our plate will be at the correct
angle So let me get all this off We’ll measure out those bushings and see
what size hole we need to drill So our next piece is actually going to be
sandwiched In-between these two rubber bushings right
in this area right here This diameter in there, that’s what I need
to know That’s for the hole size So let me take this off Let me measure that out And you don’t want to squish it That will give you an inaccurate measurement I’m showing… About 0.800” 0.806” So that would be roughly in the 13/16” range Which I don’t have a 13/16” drill But I do have a 7/8” Which is 0.875” So these holes I think are just going to have
to have a little bit of clearance But once you kinda… You know you put the washer and the nut on
there And you kinda torque these down Those little rubber things are gonna fatten
out So I think 7/8” is our diameter So we will go drill that And then cut out our plate Alright, so i gave up last night Got a little dark, got a little cold But I ended up finishing these two pieces
that we were working on This is the one that butts up against the
back of the plate that’s on there now And on the top of the frame, we’ve got a
bolt hole We’ll have to drill through the frame for
that And then this is for the very top of the shock So let me show you here So you can kinda see that little shouldered
area right there Piece fits over that… And we have a corresponding bushing on top
with the same shoulder Drops in there… and the shoulders kinda
fit in-between that hole So then we just take our washer, and our nut And these are just going to be finger tight
for tack welding Kinda snug that down, and there’s the top
of our shock So I’ve done a little bit of test fitting
off camera And I think we’re just about ready to get
these pieces tack welded in place So let me get everything set up and we’ll
go do that Ok, we’re ready to start tack welding some
things in place I am using the TIG welder And I’ve put the little fingertip control
on there I have the machine set to 90 amps That should be quite a bit less than what
this 1/4” really needs Generally it’s 1 amp per thousandth thickness
of material So this is .250” That rule kinda only applies up to about 1/8” But nonetheless, 90 is still pretty low And the reason I’m doing it low is one because
I’m… Couple of these places I’m gong to be tack
welding On the very tips of these pieces of metal Which generally melt pretty quickly Number 2, it gives me a little more time once
I get the arc going To get myself in position with the filler
rod and everything else Because, you know… I’m kinda down here,
and I’m tucked up in the wheel well So it’s going to be a little bit tricky So that’s why I’m using 90 amps I have the flow rate dialed up a little bit
to 25 CFH on the regulator And then I also dialed up the post flow a
little bit to about 10 to 12 seconds So let me gear up, and we’ll start laying
some tacks on here Ok, so I got some good tacks on the three
pieces that we have right there We’re now ready to put our shock in place And get this little top piece welded on to
our bracket So we’ll go ahead and put the shock on So our shock is almost where it needs to be I need it to tilt upwards just a little bit So for doing that, I’m just stringing together
some zipties That I’m going to wrap around the control
arm and around the shock Tighten these up, and pull that shock a little
bit up A little bit more angle To get it lined up down here And of course lined up with the bracket Ok, that’s a pretty good position, so let
me gear up And we’ll put a couple tacks on there Alright, I think our positioning is pretty
good And I wasn’t able to get… Well I got a tack on there, but it was a fusion
tack On this side that’s kinda closest to the
front of the truck The back side I was able to use some filler
rod But there in the front I was trying to hold
the shock inwards a little bit And get the fit tighter against those two
pieces And so I had to use one hand for that, and
the other hand to tack it But nonetheless, we’re all tacked up…
we’re ready to go And we’re ready to pull this thing out So let me unclip this And get all these pieces out of the way SLAMMED BAGGED DROPPED LOWERED SHOCK TOWERS CHEVY CHEVROLET C10 WELD WELDING MIG TIG EVERLAST WELDER MILLER WELDER METAL FABRICATION CUSTOM FABRICATION SUSPENSION FABRICATION SUSPENSION DESIGN GMC FORD F100 F150 STACKING DIMES WELD BEAD LINCOLN WELDER HOBART WELDER STUBBY GAS LENS

5 thoughts on “PART 2 CHEVY C10 FRONT SHOCK TOWERS | Fabricating and TIG Welding New Shock Mounts

  1. Nice…going to be overhauling the brakes (master went last fall) and getting my 77 on the road soon…Love watching your work dude. Stay safe.

  2. +milkcrate82 did you have to replace the floor pans or anything with the cab floor? If you did do you know around which videos they were? I'm about to take on this challenge as my floor pans and supports are shot. Thanks and keep up the videos, watching them helps me a lot to figure stuff out on my '78 which I will be trying to make a few more videos on soon.

  3. I don't have an old truck but I do like to try and fabricate and build bikes. love watching your videos , hope you keep them coming, i've learned a lot! whats the blue rubber band looking thing on the shock ? is it to keep it from over extending/ help it return or something ?

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