How To Weld a Trunk Lid Skin. Model A DeckLid Skin from Scratch! @ Eastwood

How To Weld a Trunk Lid Skin.  Model A DeckLid Skin from Scratch!  @ Eastwood

hey guys it’s matt from east over here in the eastwood garage doing another live tech session both on youtube and facebook for you guys to have been watching these before we want to be as interactive as possible over here we have Randy city seal on the videos and thanks for joining us getting questions make sure you post them and I’ll thrown back to Matt on youtube facebook in lansing free live so today we’re covering up if you guys haven’t just kind of join us we’re doing monday tuesday wednesday at three o’clock eastern time is kind of our our standard now on wednesdays I’m trying to do a little bit more of an in-depth project or how to whether it’s welding or whatever so today i’m working on finishing up a deck would skin for a model a that I built so if you guys check out our website we have on the blog on the eastwood blog i did a couple series of articles where i built a while first took this deck would skin around structure that was all rotted out is really bad i think we might have a shot of it when it originally started there was just rotted away it was you know hardly anything left except for the the center section and I rebuild everything kind of rebuilt the the outer edges of it and then in another tech article i built show you guys how to build a deck with skin from scratch so I got a deck with skin here that’s that’s rolled up half decent and now we’re ready to actually put the skin on the inner structure figured this would be a good one to show you guys how to prepare your panel how to set it up and a couple tools that I like to use to make it a little bit easier to get everything welded in place and finished out nicely so earlier today to save us some time we have a couple shots of it where I was spraying the inner structure with some self etching well through primer and I did that on the edges and then on the rest of the this the deck wood structure on the inside I was spraying Eastwood’s rust encapsulator and black just to seal up any residuals surface rust that was left on the panel i stripped last evening with our I one of our stripping tools and also the contrast CT to strip up the the big areas but we use the rust encapsulator and i use the selfish on the edges because we’re actually be welding to those and i want to be able to weld through that the little bit of rot not rust a little bit of metal that’s there with the primer you can well through it so my inner structure over here we’re going to be using the eastwood IM p200 I make welder today cool thing about this is the perfect time to use this welder one reason i really love this welder is this water has a spot timer on it so i’m going to put flip this on so we can use it when we’re ready and what I did ahead of time before we the broadcast is I got a piece of two pieces of Steel here i just put together and clamp them together and I got my settings just how i liked it so on the machine i have it set to the spot timer and I have the spot timer set here at about half a second on the on that on the timing and then I haven’t set a 21-point 3 volts this is an infinite adjustable setup so i could really dialed into I wanted any and I got a pretty flat spot well that’s going to fill up the hole that we that we are plug weld that we that we punched in this so that’s set the Machine up here on this panel i punched most of the holes already but i left i left the couple that area that I didn’t punch any ads just so you guys can see so here I’ve punched a few there’s a couple straight holes there’s a from Kiko holes when I was building the panel and click OH tip and the in the beginning before I gotta fit and real good so well those up at the end as well but what I use is uh we have this pneumatic flange punch tool that’s really handy if you ever drilled a bunch of spot-weld holes when you’re doing sheetmetal work it’sit’s kind of a pain in the butt you got ass and the birds off the back with this it’s got a little punch you can really quickly punch a hole in the panel and I got a couple that we need to do throughout hear something to punch those real quick the other nice thing is it has a depth on it so i’ll try and get this suit joking at the shop it has a throat on it that you can you can put it on the on the piece sheet metal and everytime get the same depth of your punch so you get a uniform spot-welds throughout which is really nice so by setting the Machine up ahead of time and using this to get uniform punched holes it’s it gives you a nice finish in the end so it’s got that it that good alright cool so I’m gonna go here and just punch a couple holes on this but super simple so I punched the hole it’s got a little the little uh cartridge of of my punched out pieces will come out there but so I just do them every so often so you can see it’s given us know about the same punch all the way through which is really nice so I did those last few I pretty much all the other ones have already been punched so they are ready to go and now what I need to do is just got to fit the skin to the inner structure it is a tight fit because well i made it half decent so fits well so i gotta wrestle just a little bit to get the fit in i’m gonna move this out of frame here and we’re gonna be working over here just so it’s better for you guys to see what’s going on and feel free to ask any questions if you have any questions about fabrication or what we’re doing today feel free to drop us a line so sorry Joe this prize i’m going to be the best there’s a joke i normally use here but I can’t use it something about a monkey in football i don’t think i can use that today but that’s kinda what this process is like so I’m just trying to fit this little lip in here they gotta get this down right here we go alright so I clipped into place I opened up the flange here on the top a little bit ahead of time just so it kind of went a little easier so i’m not going well this whole thing for you guys you know it’s going to take a little bit of time but I’m gonna do a handful well show you how to use this spot weld feature on the on the welder but I’m gonna have to adjust this top edge here because I opened it up a little bit just so I could pop it on a little easier so you we weren’t watching me struggle for extended period of time so as i mentioned i got the spot well time are already set up so what that’s going to do is it’s going to allow us to kind of get the same spot weld every time i set the Machine up ahead of time and I don’t have to worry about me letting off the trigger too soon i can just hold it know that it’s going to give me the same spot weld every time which is really nice i did on a scrap piece i may have to just a tiny bit but shouldn’t be too much so what I’m going to do is start down here on the bottom and the other tool I’m using that’s really handy we have these plug welding pliers and our main function is when you’re welding one is a hole all the way down through you can actually have this copper pad on here the clamp down and allows you to build up off of that and fill it which is really nice the other time that I use that is on a panel like this because when I’m welding I can’t really get to the backside of the area that we’re welding because this channel here which you can probably see that runs all the way up through so what will happen if i get a blow through real bad here I get wire sticking through because i didn’t get a real good weld that’s going to hit when we go to truck close the trunk with and I’m gonna be fighting I’m have to get a grinder in there and try and gouge it out so by using this this is going to make sure that if I do happen to have not quite the right angle or something isn’t quite right it’s going to hit on that piece and not leave any material on the backside or any sags so start here at the bottom so what I other thing that’s nice about these is a clamps together the two panels nice and tight so they’re touching really tightly here and then i can i can put the welder and zap that real fast and I know everything’s tight together so i start down here we have to kind of push it up as we go and go from there now so let this set so the other thing to mention i always forget it and how many times have done this when there’s a little ball and the tip easier when you’re doing these these spot-welds throughout there’s a little ball ends up on the end here every time it’s good to try and cut that off if you don’t get it quite right words that the tip is still hot you gotta cut off that little bit of all so right there on the end there is that little ball what happens is it takes more it takes more power to melt that little ball cuz it’s probably twice the thickness of the of the wire in turn 13 c so what I like to do is just clip it off every time if I can see how this one will go so i got the panel still stood up on end here just got to see what’s happening and also i can work a little easier well the one little spot there so what I’m going to jump into a few of these real quick so we’re not i got my quico holes here so i’m going to hit that up mostly with those old these players these players have that copper backer so because the quicker holes are all the way through this will back those up and I can weld them without any drama look see they’ll do that every time especially when you have the spot timer set up i have it set up with freshwater not with that that ball on the end so I have to make sure I clipped that we’re not going to get the same level to every time mr. little corner not only user error here is if I don’t line up my torch just right with that whole I can miss a little bit of the whole so not the machine that’s me not being able to see very so you know there’s one before I unclamping you can check that one out so you can see it’s nice and flat we don’t have a big mount of weld up on top of it so it’s really flat we know because we got these copper backing pliers on here I don’t have anything that’s going to fall through and become an issue when the trunk lid closes we know it’s going to close up just fine and keep moving so i’m gonna do i’m a jump ahead a little bit and do a couple up here and then we flip it over to the other side any questions as we’re working here yeah we’ve got a couple people were asked a couple people were asking the difference between a spot weld and a plug weld so I thought maybe I could try to explain it my mother too limited by 200 state and effect so question was the difference between a spot weld a plug weld I guess technically one spot would be a resistance spot-weld what would have been done from the factory where there’s two tips that would have come down with the pieces between and and the resistance between those tips would actually welcome together would be no hole so technically what we’re doing here is a plug well I kind of use them interchangeably i think a lot of people do in the automotive world and it’s called a spot weld timer which maybe I thought that’s why yeah it’s bottled timer but you can use it do to do a plug yeah it’s at this point it’s going to become slang that spot weld term where originally would have meant as a resistance spot well but where still holding a spot and that’s why we use that terminology on there but it’s kind of the same thing a plug well you’re you’re filling up a whole same kind of idea plug what I generally is more of like a thicker metal type thing you see it more commonly that term used but either way we’re filling a hole alright so i’m going to jump the whole just to make sure the panel as well make sure that the panel is going to hold together when I flip it over and we’ll do it a few on the other side so trim that little bit extra few that we can hear the wells time is the same every time so for that one right just tap the little extra but afterwards that’s the same every time so we can know that we get a same well there’s not much room for user error there this particular machine it’s not the only thing that it does it does normal make functions it also has a stick take option on it so if you guys want to dabble in an arc welding or even get started and take welding this does have a tick water functionality you can do DC only steal well didn’t scratch start but it’s a good entry-level way to get into take welding which is nice but this is my favorite feature in this machine why is that so we go up here and we’re gonna clamp this down again like a little tighter as a little bit of overhang on the inner structure i wanted to wait till I get everything fit in the end then I’ll take a sander and knock down just a little bit of overhang but others wouldn’t do that to it so on a world me to go alright so we got enough here that this thing should come hold in place life all that off but we don’t have any enough you can get down low enough here i have a couple little pinholes right and have the angle quite right that just tap them quickly but the main thing to see here is these welds they’re not sitting real higher proud off of the panel they’re pretty much flat so excuse me inside the inside that the jam with a gutter area this isn’t going to have an issue you’re not going to give through have to grind a bunch of material off we’re not going to have to have to worry about the hitting because the world sticking up high so you can set the water up ahead of time like I did and know that you’re gonna get a pretty consistent weld every time so now i can flip this guy over and I already got a bunch of them drilled on this side here pull everything together I have a pair of there just are locking clamps I just want to pull this together to start lightly to get this inner structure to kind of pull in where I want like that so don’t be afraid to use clamps to kinda get everything sitting how you want because you only get one try it this otherwise you’re gonna have to grind it all off and start back over which is no fun clamping on my panel start on this end loop on the end did we get a close-up of the that little ball you’re cutting off on the end of our yeah we’ll get it up i’ll do another one we did but what’s will grab another you got a couple questions about what you were doing sure yeah there’s the UH got one in the beginning but i think it’s good to show it again you’re right so let me uh well do this one I’ll show you is immediately so I got my wire well Joe can see here this is what we’re starting off with so i got my wire cut that just a little bit of stick out on the end here so we have fresh piece of wire cut off ready to go which is great know when you got that’s alright so now i’m going to walk this one in here and let me just put the wire out a little further so Joe can show you guys so I’m going to try and so can you see that there’s a little ball right there on the end of it where it’s you know he’s going to try and get that macro there we go we’re good fancy we gotta monitor now so I can really see what the heck he’s down he’s getting that close up there you can see that little ball in the end that’s what I’m referencing so the problem is every time you do one of these spotter plug welds are going to get that little ball on the end it’s just the residual wire that wasn’t enough to melt onto the workpiece but still stuck onto the end of the wire so what I need to do then what the problem is with that is when you have your welder setup you set your welder to weld without that ball in the end now that ball is probably almost twice the diameter of the wire because it’s a bunch of wire kind of melted together so when you go to start welding your your initial weld and you know it’s only half a second is what we have it set up so much time your first maybe second or two of this world is going to be too cold because there’s not enough power to melt that out so what you need to do is each time take your pliers and you can these pliers work two ways one cool way we can turn it this way and actually set your stick out if you like it that way and it gives you a preset amount of wire sticking out every time so you can do that where you can flip the over the other way and we can trim it all the way close if we need to depending on what you’re doing I for what we’re doing today i like it just a little bit less than what’s in there hopefully that answered the question for you guys that’s one that I i sometimes get lazy and don’t do but it always bites me whenever I don’t take that off so again i’m just using my pliers here too lightly press everything together where I wanted to be we only need these these locking pliers for probably the first couple there were doing and the rest of the time we can just use these copper plug wire pliers who west of it oh my bed stuff with these lights that’s my excuse atleast alright so I got one there now it’s coming together pretty good i’m going to jump down a few here again using the nv200 with the spot weld timer set at half a second and 21.3 volts was the sweet little spot that I like that which is about seven on the dial seems to be good for way in a nice flat well getting good penetration here right anyone here down at the bottom then we should be we should have enough actually got two holes here i put up plug one hole in a had a quicker whole must have my eyes closed was doing that hip go for more I need to touch some of them up a little bit so now we have least I got the panel kind of sticking together here so i got one piece along this top edge here i gotta pull this together and like i said i got a hammer not hammer it’s going to use a clamp and maybe a dolly I could hammer a little bit to get that flat but we’re gonna do the same across the top here the bottom edge here all this needs is just it’s a folded edge it’s a hemmed edge here will turn this so you guys can see so this hemmed edge all i need to do is just put a dolly behind it on the outside of the visible part of the skin as a backer and I can take our door skin plier our door skin hammer and hammer along the edge there and just flatten that down on the onto the inner structure and that’s pinched on this side you can put a couple little spot was if he needs to need to on there but the the ones all around the other outside of it should be pretty good but what we got model a deck would skin for not a lot of money so any other questions we had those a try to make it short and sweet but with some tips in there for you guys that was all the questions for today sweet know what there’s a lot of questions though good well thank you guys for for asking questions as always we really like the participation if you have any any future projects or videos or a product you’d like to see us use will show you more information about the we sell feel free to drop us a line in the comments this broadcast is available to watch recorded both on facebook and youtube so you guys can ask questions there we do monitor for the next day and people were watching our video yesterday and mention an essential can’t see when you’re welding we have a light that you can put on your MIG welder yes yeah we had a the are people paying attention good at that one was I guess they ran and I did a welding essential so we scroll down on facebook or if you go on youtube channel you can see that from yesterday we didn’t central we went over some of the products that we really liked for that so thanks guys for watching I appreciate it i’ll catch you guys later

11 thoughts on “How To Weld a Trunk Lid Skin. Model A DeckLid Skin from Scratch! @ Eastwood

  1. yes i was able to shove a screw driver in mine and finally get it open. the deck lid is pristene butt i found engine parts held in by a loose sheet of gavenized roof metal. bad deal for me since i havnt beem able to pry the hood open yet.

  2. i have a stupid question. is it still bad to look at the weldspark even if its on video? i always look away still. lol

  3. Matt mentions 21.5V was the sweet spot, what current setting was he using at this voltage please? On my magmate180p I have voltage and current so was chasing some good starting settings.
    Thanks guys, love your vids.
    Any Eastwood distributors in Australia?

  4. For stitch welding thin metal, I usually turn my welder up really hot, and give it a quick "zap" (probably 0.2 seconds). This produces a very flat, full penetration weld. I haven't tried it with a plug weld, but it would seem that the result would be very similar. Using the copper-backed plug weld pliers would eliminate the likelihood of blowing through.
    I say this because it's pretty clear that Matt isn't accustomed to clipping the ball from the end of the filler wire before each weld. I know I don't do that.

  5. i really wanna learn how to weld so i can weld moyorcycle frames and various parts for motorcycles but id much rather learn how to on my own, whats the best welder for beginners to learn best on, for affordability and to be able to weld things as big as motorcycles frames if such a welder exists thanks love the channel btw

  6. What you need is a little more voltage and a little surcle movement of the torch round the hole and that will make the weld flat and nice

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *