Hi guys, welcome to TECHYDIY. My name is Nigel and today I am going to build an infinity mirror with a modern style. The design works really well as a table lamp. It’s powered by a safe low-voltage power supply. It uses LED lights and best of all it looks great! So keep watching and I will show you how it’s made. Before we get started, let’s have a quick look at how an infinity mirror works. It consists of a two-way mirror at the front, a normal mirror at the back, and lights in between them. A two-way mirror is a partially reflective mirror, which means that it reflects some light and allows the rest to pass through. The light bounces between the mirrors with the two-way mirror allowing some of the light to pass through each time and this creates a series of reflections with diminishing intensity leading to the illusion of the lights fading into the distance. So now let’s have a look at some of the parts required. Firstly we have a normal acrylic mirror sheet. This is European a4-sized which is 210 x 297 millimeters and 3mm thick. in the US 8″ x 12″ x 1/8″ would be a good alternative. Secondly an acrylic two-way mirror sheet the same size as the normal mirror. This has a very thin reflective aluminium foil on the back and it reflects approximately 80% of the light. An alternative is to use a clear acrylic sheet along with some silver reflective window film. If you want to see how that’s done then I have put a link to my other infinity mirror project in the video description along with all of the parts and tools used in this project. The base is a block of pallet wood. Some self-adhesive 12-volt white LED tape. You can buy this in specific lengths or on a reel and it can be cut at the marked positions. A 1 meter length of aluminium strip which is 11.5mm x 2mm It should be slightly wider than the LED tape. To power the LEDs I have used a 12 volt 1 amp DC power supply and a DC power connector and finally some flexible and enamelled copper wire. Moving on to the build, the first thing to do is cut the wooden base to length and route a couple of slots in it to hold the mirrors. So to start with I squared off the end of the wood with a mitre saw measured 297 millimeters which is the width
of the mirrors and then cut it to length. Then I routed a couple of slots in the top face of the wood using a 3 mm or 1/8″ straight bit going down to a depth of 19mm or 3/4″ and then sanded the base smooth. To mount the LEDs I have used a rectangular frame made out of aluminium strip, which was formed
using a simple jig. The corners were radiused To make it easier to mount the LEDs and this was accomplished with discs at the jig corners. The disks were cut from a plastic kitchen chopping board using a 15mm diameter hole saw. I then drilled four holes into some scrap wooden board and bolted the disks in place. To secure the end of the aluminium strip ready for bending. I screwed a piece of wood to the bottom of the jig. I then punched a hole in the end of the aluminium strip, screwed it to the wooden block and bent it around the jig. I cut off the excess and then checked that the corners were square and the dimensions were equal The next job was to mount the frame to the base. So I made some additional holes in the bottom of the frame using a hole punch, which is an alternative method to using a drill. I countersunk the holes, so the mounting screws would sit flush and then screwed the frame to the wood using a ruler to keep it straight. I cut the length of LED tape, removed the backing and applied it to the outside of the frame. and then I drilled two holes in the center of the frame The width between them, being the same as the contacts of the LED strip and this is because wires are fed through these holes to power the inner LED strip. I then unscrewed the frame from the wood, marking the edge of the frame in the process and then marked where the wires for the outer LED strip would be located. Drilled holes through the wood at the marked locations and countersunk the holes. To make it easier to pass the wires through. Using stop blocks on the router table and a 6mm or 1/4″ straight bit I cut a slot between the two sets of holes on the bottom of the base. I also drilled larger holes at either end to make the wiring easier, However this step proved to be unnecessary. To accommodate the power supply cable I drilled two holes through the side through to the slot. That was everything I needed to do with the base, so I applied some lacquer and while that was drying, I soldered two length of enamelled copper wire to the contacts on the outside LED strip. I tested the LEDs and then applied a little hot glue to the solder joints
as insulation and then inserted a length of flex through the hole in the side. Pushed the enamelled copper wires through the two holes in the top and then screwed the frame back into position. I stripped the insulation from the ends of the flexible wires and also from the enamelled copper wires I tinned the stripped portion of the enameled copper wires and then soldered the flexible and enamelled copper wires together, making sure that the striped side of the flex was connected to the negative side of the LED strip. Then used heat shrink tubing to insulate the joints and then pushed the free ends of the enamelled wires through the center holes, once again, checking that the outside LEDs are working. I cut another length of LED strip to fit around the inside of the frame and then used a pin to make holes in the contacts at the center of the strip I removed the insulation from the wires and installed the LED strip onto them, making sure the polarity was correct. The backing from the center of the LED strip was then removed and the strip applied to the inside of the frame. I soldered the wires to the contacts and then cut the wires flush. The remaining backing was then removed from the LED strip and the strip applied to the inside of the frame. The flexible wires were screwed onto the DC power socket with the striped wire going to the negative side. The power supply was plugged in to test everything was okay. To protect surfaces, I cut some felt to size and glued it to the base. The next job was to install the mirrors into the base. They both come with a protective covering and this was removed apart from the last 3/4″ which are left in place, to protect the surface during insertion. .The full mirror goes in at the back and then the two-way mirror at the front with the acrylic side facing forwards. To tell which side is which, you can place a straight edge against each face, the side with a gap is the acrylic side is the foil side. and the side without a gap so that’s how to make a modern infinity mirror. The only thing left to do now is plug it in. Thanks for joining me. Please give the video a big thumbs up, subscribe to the channel and leave a comment. I am Nigel and you’ve been watching TECHYDIY See you again next time.