How to Make a Modern LED Infinity Illusion Mirror

How to Make a Modern LED Infinity Illusion Mirror


Hi guys, welcome to TECHYDIY. My name is Nigel and today I am going to build an infinity mirror with a modern style. The design works really well as a table lamp. It’s powered by a safe low-voltage power supply. It uses LED lights and best of all it looks great! So keep watching and I will show you how it’s made. Before we get started, let’s have a quick look at how an infinity mirror works. It consists of a two-way mirror at the front, a normal mirror at the back, and lights in between them. A two-way mirror is a partially reflective mirror, which means that it reflects some light and allows the rest to pass through. The light bounces between the mirrors with the two-way mirror allowing some of the light to pass through each time and this creates a series of reflections with diminishing intensity leading to the illusion of the lights fading into the distance. So now let’s have a look at some of the parts required. Firstly we have a normal acrylic mirror sheet. This is European a4-sized which is 210 x 297 millimeters and 3mm thick. in the US 8″ x 12″ x 1/8″ would be a good alternative. Secondly an acrylic two-way mirror sheet the same size as the normal mirror. This has a very thin reflective aluminium foil on the back and it reflects approximately 80% of the light. An alternative is to use a clear acrylic sheet along with some silver reflective window film. If you want to see how that’s done then I have put a link to my other infinity mirror project in the video description along with all of the parts and tools used in this project. The base is a block of pallet wood. Some self-adhesive 12-volt white LED tape. You can buy this in specific lengths or on a reel and it can be cut at the marked positions. A 1 meter length of aluminium strip which is 11.5mm x 2mm It should be slightly wider than the LED tape. To power the LEDs I have used a 12 volt 1 amp DC power supply and a DC power connector and finally some flexible and enamelled copper wire. Moving on to the build, the first thing to do is cut the wooden base to length and route a couple of slots in it to hold the mirrors. So to start with I squared off the end of the wood with a mitre saw measured 297 millimeters which is the width
of the mirrors and then cut it to length. Then I routed a couple of slots in the top face of the wood using a 3 mm or 1/8″ straight bit going down to a depth of 19mm or 3/4″ and then sanded the base smooth. To mount the LEDs I have used a rectangular frame made out of aluminium strip, which was formed
using a simple jig. The corners were radiused To make it easier to mount the LEDs and this was accomplished with discs at the jig corners. The disks were cut from a plastic kitchen chopping board using a 15mm diameter hole saw. I then drilled four holes into some scrap wooden board and bolted the disks in place. To secure the end of the aluminium strip ready for bending. I screwed a piece of wood to the bottom of the jig. I then punched a hole in the end of the aluminium strip, screwed it to the wooden block and bent it around the jig. I cut off the excess and then checked that the corners were square and the dimensions were equal The next job was to mount the frame to the base. So I made some additional holes in the bottom of the frame using a hole punch, which is an alternative method to using a drill. I countersunk the holes, so the mounting screws would sit flush and then screwed the frame to the wood using a ruler to keep it straight. I cut the length of LED tape, removed the backing and applied it to the outside of the frame. and then I drilled two holes in the center of the frame The width between them, being the same as the contacts of the LED strip and this is because wires are fed through these holes to power the inner LED strip. I then unscrewed the frame from the wood, marking the edge of the frame in the process and then marked where the wires for the outer LED strip would be located. Drilled holes through the wood at the marked locations and countersunk the holes. To make it easier to pass the wires through. Using stop blocks on the router table and a 6mm or 1/4″ straight bit I cut a slot between the two sets of holes on the bottom of the base. I also drilled larger holes at either end to make the wiring easier, However this step proved to be unnecessary. To accommodate the power supply cable I drilled two holes through the side through to the slot. That was everything I needed to do with the base, so I applied some lacquer and while that was drying, I soldered two length of enamelled copper wire to the contacts on the outside LED strip. I tested the LEDs and then applied a little hot glue to the solder joints
as insulation and then inserted a length of flex through the hole in the side. Pushed the enamelled copper wires through the two holes in the top and then screwed the frame back into position. I stripped the insulation from the ends of the flexible wires and also from the enamelled copper wires I tinned the stripped portion of the enameled copper wires and then soldered the flexible and enamelled copper wires together, making sure that the striped side of the flex was connected to the negative side of the LED strip. Then used heat shrink tubing to insulate the joints and then pushed the free ends of the enamelled wires through the center holes, once again, checking that the outside LEDs are working. I cut another length of LED strip to fit around the inside of the frame and then used a pin to make holes in the contacts at the center of the strip I removed the insulation from the wires and installed the LED strip onto them, making sure the polarity was correct. The backing from the center of the LED strip was then removed and the strip applied to the inside of the frame. I soldered the wires to the contacts and then cut the wires flush. The remaining backing was then removed from the LED strip and the strip applied to the inside of the frame. The flexible wires were screwed onto the DC power socket with the striped wire going to the negative side. The power supply was plugged in to test everything was okay. To protect surfaces, I cut some felt to size and glued it to the base. The next job was to install the mirrors into the base. They both come with a protective covering and this was removed apart from the last 3/4″ which are left in place, to protect the surface during insertion. .The full mirror goes in at the back and then the two-way mirror at the front with the acrylic side facing forwards. To tell which side is which, you can place a straight edge against each face, the side with a gap is the acrylic side is the foil side. and the side without a gap so that’s how to make a modern infinity mirror. The only thing left to do now is plug it in. Thanks for joining me. Please give the video a big thumbs up, subscribe to the channel and leave a comment. I am Nigel and you’ve been watching TECHYDIY See you again next time.

100 thoughts on “How to Make a Modern LED Infinity Illusion Mirror

  1. the right man, ideas, patience, time at hand, tools and all the rest make a beautiful piece of light to be proud of 🙃

  2. It's a great work i already have done with this work at my home… Now i have it at my home… Looking amazing…..
    Nice work…

  3. What would it look like if the outside LED strip was a different color? Or both strips could be color and function controlled?

  4. Tx, man. I made one, and when my wife was looking into it I said, "boo!" and gave her a little push, just for laughs, you know…. she, um, she fell in, and , well….. she disappeared. …. That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it

  5. That is best method to make your house realy haunted, you guys deffenetly dont want to do that

  6. Do you take any order? Would love to have it as bed board replacement. It looks so cool and the lighting is good for reading I suppose.

  7. Have used this design for a uni project involving ws2812b, the stand is bigger due to all the components I had to put under it. It's not difficult to make you can cut some wood and just glue it to make the area where you want to put in the mirrors. Thank you for the help, as this helps to remove the glass very easy, for transportation.

  8. I really like it. I think the only thing I would change is mounting a border of frosted acrylic around the sides to diffuse the harsh direct light from the LEDs but still allow it to be used as a lamp. Maybe RGB strip just for potential accent.

  9. I wonder how it would look with two way mirror on both front and back. So you could look into it from either side and through it to someone else diing the same.

  10. The way you narrate in the vid is like you narrating in a cooking show, maybe because of your accent is similar to gordon ramsey.

  11. Hey man I have bien thinking all week as to where I put that infinity mirror at home!! This video, man! It’s so so cool. Yours is the most effective infinity table poster post card the lot!! 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊 thank you for giving us this beautiful DYO. Amazing video you have inspired me to do YouTube videos. Thank you 🙏

  12. Главное не призвать нечистую силу, осторожней с зеркалами.

  13. Está muy bien, el detalle cv es que no entiendgo muy mucho porque no tengo nada de conocimiento electrónico y luego ésas máquinas que no todos las tenemos.

  14. Класс) только какие зеркала-не понятно. Какое-то полупрозрачное и обычное? Кто знает, поясните пожалуйста

  15. First time I saw this type of light

    was about 50 years
    ago but they used

    Christmas lights … on the inside ….¯_(ツ)_/¯.

  16. Hello dear friend. Unfortunately, I live in the stupid country of Iran. All I enjoy is being able to occasionally browse the YouTube program and see the world of technology and technology and regret why I was born, why I was born. Welcome to the area where you can have beautiful creations without limit. Please enjoy life instead of us. Damn the life we ​​got into the tyrannical government and dictatorship of Iran. I really hate life. But sometimes I do some things with very little facilities. I have a 5-year-old son right now, and I am very worried about his future in this stupid, dictatorial, dry country of religion just like the crazy, crazy people who ruled the country. I would love to save my son. Again, thank you very much and thank you for the crap and the beautiful things you make.

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  18. I tried to give a big thumbs up … but i can't do it … The thumb is always the sameeee …. Do you have another DIY for thisss

  19. Seems awfully unstable with nothing locking the mirrors in the slots. It certainly wouldn't survive someone bumping into it let alone an earthquake.

  20. Well explained video. I always wanted to do one. Like your details video and also list of materials to buy. Cool stuff and keep it going.

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