How to Install Metal Stud Framing / Drywall

How to Install Metal Stud Framing / Drywall


A common problem with building a dividing
wall on any room with a wooden floor is that there are no foundations. It could be a first floor or a mezzanine floor,
the simple answer is a steel stud wall clad in plasterboard. Apart from being very light it is easy to
put up. We are going to put sound insulation in it. That’s important so you don’t get noise
carrying through the wall. So we will see with these tools just how quick
it is to put one of these DIY projects up. Ready? This steel stud wall system uses a base track
and uprights or mullions, so our first job is to measure and place the base track using
tek screws. The material cuts easily with aviation snips,
then we screw it into position. Well the first job is to lay the track then
you put the upright studs in, and then the plasterboard goes on. It’s all fairly quick. These are the studs, they are quite different
to the channel, they have got holes all the way down to run cabling through or pipes. They are also serrated on the side here so
that when your bugle head screw hits them through the plasterboard it’s not going to
skip off. Now we just gotta measure them up and cut
them to length and slot them into the channel. Ok, so 550mm. We then mark the positions of the uprights
and crimp them top and bottom. The plasterboard and wall adhesive will provide
additional strength. All the studs are fixed in place so all we
have to do now is apply some adhesive and we are going to apply the sheets horizontally. Using walnut sized dops of adhesive, as per
the manufactures instructions we mount the plasterboard. Use small offcuts or blocks as spacers at
the base to allow for expansion. Ok on the spacers? Yep. Once the plasterboard is in position, we fix
using bugle head screws. You ready? Yep Clear? Yep Now a quick score down here with a knife and
snap it off and we are ready to apply the sheets on this side. That’s the beauty of this material it’s really
easy to use. There you go Dene, gloves and mask. Well when this apartment is finished it won’t
be as noisy as it is today, but you will still need sound insulation in the walls. When you use fibreglass use protection. You
ready Dene? Absolutely. The fibre insulation is fairly dense and will
help with noise reduction. The material is now bio soluble and much more user friendly
than the old type of fibreglass insulation. We pack the insulation in between the lower
2 sheets, then we fix the upper sheet and fill with insulation. That’s great Dene, good job. Yeah, all we gotta do now is tape over the
joints and flush them off. It’s a really good way of building a quick
dividing wall on a wooden floor, somewhere there is no foundations for brick. Well done. Yeah works really well, strong, quite.

77 thoughts on “How to Install Metal Stud Framing / Drywall

  1. was  fine–can  u  tell  me  how  to  make  transparent  wall  with  plastic.  sounds  weird  but  we  can  use  it  on  roof-top–to  see  the  sky

  2. Instead of shoving the insulation down between the two sheets, you could have just installed all the insulation before you put the back wall up. A bit easier.

  3. been doing this for 20 years (and NVQ 3 qualified) in the UK and I've never heard of using adhesives before. also it's not a good idea to use a drywall gun to fix the top/bottom track. I'm only w couple of mins into this bus and I've already come across these mistakes, I don't think I can carry on watching.

  4. I'm confused on what they're talking about no foundation? You can fasten a wooden stud wall to a concrete floor or a wooden floor so this confuses me

  5. You won't get Expansion, in the uk on site were told studs have to be 400 apart, if you have been on site before you will know to ignore every word these people say

  6. Hello friends I'm Brazilian and I have a construction channel here I'm really enjoying the channel of voices

  7. when you made that drywall cut you didn't give it no space for the otherdrywall to get attatched to measure it get your t bar and give it that cut right down the middle of stud god dammit fuck! haha just playing Austin powers

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  9. Wrong……….. The boards run vertically….the rails sit at 60CM intervals so that the edge of the board screws into the rails

  10. With steel stud walls you run the sheets vertically staggering the joints at 600mm centres. In 30 years I have never seen a horizontal joint in steel stud construction.

  11. Ah bully! What a bunch of shite! Waste of adhesive and not per industry standards! You don't crimp metal studs to track, you screw them. When you fasten the wallboard, you don't want to break the paper. DIY gone wrong.

  12. What are the tools and can you list the parts of furring? Planning to do it in a concrete wall, how should i stud it?

  13. Those dimples aren’t for ur screws. Thats eq stud so it’s probably 25ga but equally strong as 20ga. The dimples make it more rigid

  14. Ahh! I have only been doing this for few weeks. I thought I would get some good tips from men who have been doing this for 20 years!

    They put the shallow floor track on the ceiling and the deep head-track on the floor. The head-track is deeper to allow a small gap between stud and ceiling to allow a tiny amount of movement, and easy fixing. Specifications vary but most that I have seen do not fix the headtrack permanently to the stud.

    The boards go vertically with the studs 60cm apart so the edges of the boards meet on them.

    But American instructional videos show stacking the boards horizontally. Seems to be the way they do it an these Aussies seem to be copying them.

    They also appear to fix the floor track first, obstructing getting the head-track up and providing a trip hazard with a sharp edge, whilst they do it.
    Fixing the headtrack is not shown.

    As for the adhesive I have no idea what purpose it serves, especially with a couple of tiny blobs that they use, which will attach to a paper surface.

    But hey they have been doing it that way for 20 years….

  15. Never seen anyone use adhesive, but seems like a nice idea for noise suppression. (IE: so if someone hits the wall you dont hear those nasty metal studs bouncing around like tin cans).
    I clicked on this video cause I was interested in the crimping tool, usually we just use clamps to hold the studs together while we run a zip screw through them to lock them in place, but im tired of that and I was wondering how effective the crimping tool would be compared to zip screws.
    Was actually thinking of just using the crimp tool to get the rough framing done then to use zips to fill in to make the jobs easier/faster.

  16. I didn't know people still crimped. We remodeled a hotel that was built in the 50s and all studs were crimped except for doors and headers

  17. Ok So I never leave reviews & Im not leaving this one to be a jerk But as a Remodeling Business Owner for 13 years there where a few things that bothered me about this video,
    1st the installation and Tool handling issues
    – They over sank the drywall screws and poped the paper facing instead of indenting which causes trapped air which allows screws to rust, Oxidize and mis-color or cause a nail pop
    – The way he dropped the drill down by the cord tells me either they don’t care for the business owners tools or even worse his own which typically tells me their work its treated the same way.
    – Then having 1 man hold the tape to get a 7’ measurement and your butting to a wall, I get team work but again I’d fire someone who’d do that on my jobs, the same way the second guy had to twist and move the stud to put it on the mark, again wow.
    – Theye didn’t explain the most important install tips, if you can lay a bottom track and clip a stud at 16 O.C you probably should call a professional. Not the important areas ar of course the top plate and double plated. The corners where the bottom and top track meets. How about the corner studs for support nd drywall. Or framing out for a door, These are the things a beginner needs to know, that videos like the 7 minutes I wasted writing this, Ill never get it back but I was compelled to say something. Happy New Year

  18. As a beginner with woodwork, I usually feel overwhelmed with the whole plan. But Ryan's plans led me through with much clarity and simplicity [ Check Details Here=>deam.design/9trw ]. I now work like a pro. That's good!

  19. I think my apartment have the same stud, 60cm apart from each other. Can I please ask if these metal studs are strong enough to hang 3 of 80cm H x 80cm W x 37cm D cabinet that weigh 25kg each, plus say 20kg of content inside each cabinet that we'd fill in later?

  20. Who else thinks they look like Bud Spencer and Terence Hill in the vintage Trinity series?
    Thanks guys, nice demo, very clear on demo, video, and audio. Why not Mineral Wool which is more eco friendly and mold resistant?

  21. Nice wall and helpful video for framing. I would suggest that impact noise or movement of the floorboards will transfer directly between the two room without much attenuation.

  22. If you want to punch clean holes in the studwork without risk of injury i.e. using angle grinder contact me for a tool which is on the market

  23. I'd put in the insulation before installing any screws through the studs… otherwise you'll be cussing when the insulation snags on the screws.

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