How To Apply Body Filler – Mixing, Spreading, Sanding & Tips – Part 2 of 3 – Kevin Tetz at Eastwood

How To Apply Body Filler – Mixing, Spreading, Sanding & Tips – Part 2 of 3 – Kevin Tetz at Eastwood

if I get on it too soon it’s going to
load my paper I don’t necessarily want that but I want to find that magic
window – I can I can really go to town and I can get this level and shape
quickly and efficiently now it is going to continue to shrink
somewhat but between me mixing up my next stage of filler it’s not going to shrink to the point
where it’s going to be depression I can still use it here’s another thing
i want to show you this is aerosol injected cleaner or you can use chassis
clean or something like that you hear that stickiness yes again it’s
resin technology the resins kind of float to the top just like they’ll rise
to the top in the can i’m using aerosol injected and I’m
wiping that resin layer off the top I’m not taking any filler with it but I
am getting a little bit of residue off there and what that does when I let that
flash yeah it’s not smoking anyone so ok
here’s what I’m talking about now we’re cooking with gas you see how quickly i am able to get and
makes them make some shaping happen here yeah yeah you know what else is not happening is
I’m not create a whole bunch of dust is kind of rolling off and it’s so much
tidier way of doing this stuff and when I see that I’m feathered out or close to
feathered out then I’ll just stop and I want I want to publicly acknowledge and
thank Tim strange from strange motion for showing me these techniques he he’s
a craftsman and there’s no other word for it he’s very good at what he does and he’s
willing to to pass on his skills which I admire he’s a good guys become a good friend
and to be in the same room as Tim strange Jesse and Jeff greening Brian Finch Eric
saliba Alan Shepley Randy borcherding from paid house in Houston Texas we had all of those guys on the truck
show once we call it the autobody thrash and let me tell you man it was a
learning experience for me I was running around getting people
tools and supplies and keep it one of your open and both eyes open and let me
tell you what I learned some serious techniques from those cats whether they
knew they were teaching me or not and it’s almost a material but they were
mostly by example yeah all right they don’t call the body work
for nothing people and mostly i’m using an X pattern when I want to go to town how did you pick up the surface is going
to dictate kind of your technique yeah ok so that’s 36 I can’t prime over 36
I’ve got to go a little finer and look there’s still some great left on that
paper so i want to get rid of those 36 and scratches because no matter what
kind of primer surfacer you’re going to use those can map through the top so
here’s that here’s a tip here’s a guide coat guide
coach your body work there’s powder guide coat there’s spray
guide coat and there’s another guide coat that we’re going to show you that
doesn’t cost anything that works just as good so now that i’m done with my 36 we move
on to the next step which is 80 grit there’s the footprint of my pad there’s my body work that’s a good way to gauge what type of
block you need now for my rough shaping I was just kind of focusing on the edges now i want to blend and contour into the
panel so my block translates to the repair it can dive down in there this is what I was talking about see
those 36 and scratches those are gnarly man and you don’t want them you don’t want them poking their way
through the top because what happens is your primer surfaces will bridge over
that they’ll fill it in and it leaves a pocket for it to shrink and that’s not
good yeah yeah yeah and I’m blocking with 80 grit now just
like we talked about before it’s my second stage of blocking and it’s a
process of refinement and refining my shape ok so my guide coat is gone what do I do now is it finished no it’s
not finished my edges aren’t milky and I’ve still got some blocking to do here’s the low buck guide coat that was
going to but this is just an ink marker TC panic she’ll be this technique on believe it
or not blocking texture out a clear coat on a show car basically you’re just drawing on top of
it and all that stuff it ends up on the floor in a pile can
just showed you the pile but this gives me another visual reference to know when
i’m through blocking ok there’s another thing I haven’t hammered
home I’m doing this without a mask because
it’s a small area and because i want to talk to you guys well I’m doing it but
when i’m working a whole car I’m absolutely wearing one of these protect yourselves guys you know you
know me if you watch any of the education videos I hammer home the safety issues a lot
and there’s a good reason for it i want to see you guys have success with this I don’t I don’t want anybody to ever get
hurt and I want you guys to have a long career and being able to to do this over
and over again and not have any health issues pop up because of it by the way if you noticed I’m Way beyond
my repair now and it’s just sort of a nature of the beast so keep that in mind when you’re gauging
the size of a repair or if you have to blend paint into the panel typically a repair is going – it’s going
to take up two-thirds of the panel and to effectively blend with in a pan when
it comes to painting you need two thirds to blend now I’m
flirting with the writing my primer surfacer going to come out to here from
here forward if i did my gnarly dent I wouldn’t have enough money enough room
to blend into the door I have to blend the door as well and body shop basics
video on the education series shows those techniques very well ok you see what I’m doing I’m running my hands on gloves increase your tactile sensation what that means is you can feel more
with gloves on it’s like a magnifiers like an amplifier and you can read your
surface better you know if I’m feeling a little Stevie Wonder is here and I’m
looking up into the into the sky and I’m feeling a really nice feathered edge now what confirms that see how milky
that is see how blended that is in that’s what you want to look for so I’m
I’m pretty darn happy with with the shape of my repair here we’re going to
do we’re going to do one final stage all right we’re going to use a contour
glazing putty come back over here can do that text sheets quick sheets here’s the beauty of this oh my gosh
what am I going to do am I going to clean my cardboard off or turn it over no no I’m not okay we’re out now that’s about all I’m going to need for
that comes with its own catalyst Oh get rid of that guy because those
guys is your day up all right when ribbon over top and use
my same spreader because I like it and i’m blending until it’s one color
it’s real simple on a hot day you’re going to have to
play around with how much catalyst you put in on a cold day you might have to
add a little more on a hot day you might have to split into about a seventy-five
percent stretch across the top there’s nothing real scientific about it but you
may have to cut back on the amount of catalyst you’ll still get an effective
cross link but your catalyst ratio is going to change with temperature and
weather in the midwest with your out in Arizona that will change and that will
be that will reveal itself to you I’m sweating my eyes I can see a medic
and down that’s ridiculous ok and the glazing putty helps old guys
like me feel good about this because back in the lacquer days we used to use
nitro stand which is basically lacquer primer that’s almost in a jail state go away all right this stuff kicks pretty quick so oh yeah
it’s already started all right I’m going to da band block we’re going over this up to two
questions pretty soon okay here i don’t want to wear this
stuff home and the different types of filters that were using gloves gloves
work well guys it’s a it’s a nice thing to have I like the nitrile gloves my hands are
small i use a medium size but they’ve gotten way up into XL check with your
easter catalog or the eastwood website just do a simple search for for gloves
and safety equipment and masks and things like that so ok same thing they’re ok here’s some here’s
a mouse here’s another use for for the
pre-painting prep this isn’t set up yet while we wait for the rest of it to set
up and use my pre-painting prep to come down through here and it’s not an
aggressive solvent but it’s a nice degreaser nice cleaner and down here I don’t have to sand it off now again
around on the outside I don’t have to bring an abrasive in here now we’re ready to go applying fillers is something that you
just have to you got to go through the steps you’ve
got to have got to have some failures – – to make your successes happen but
it’s not that hard to do if you simple basic rules and and well oh i’m getting a call get a question
hopefully this is kevin hate yes okay while we’re letting this setup
we got a couple of questions so thanks for thanks for hanging with this guy’s
what’s the first question that ok the question is what do I prefer body
filler over over bare steel or body filler over epoxy that question is too
full now I’ve been to numerous training classes that say that epoxy over top of
your steel is a beautiful bond and is an impermeable bond and it’s a moisture
proof bond then they tell you that your fillers over top of epoxy is actually
it’s a chemical cross-linking rather than a mechanical cross-linked
mechanical just being at the the filler hanging out of scratches so you have the benefit their of
creating a layer in between epoxy is glue it’s glue and spray glue so it sticks to
anything and everything sticks to it when it’s used properly so a great
method of doing bodywork and having a good seal is putting a coat of sealer on
it and then put in your body work over top of it nothing wrong with that that’s
absolutely permissible and sometimes necessary some later model vehicles have
galvanized sheet metal which thank goodness they started doing that because
in the back in the day they didn’t galvanized anything set the rockers in
the cowls and and it shows that you you you guys that are doing rust repair at
home you know so it’s subjective and the answer to
that question is the best way I can put that is is if you got a late model
vehicle and you’ve got a galvanized panel yes put a layer of epoxy on it before
your body work because that way your fillers are guaranteed to stick even
though it’s a DTM you don’t want to have a an interference layer in there if
you’re blasting a car and you’re a weekend warrior like most of us are and
you want to do it a piece at a time if you blast the car epoxy it then you
can wait and do it at your pace you can do a paddle a weekend or two panels a
weekend or a pick and choose the time that you want to do that if you blast a
car you want to do your body work over bare steel you’re exposing your vehicle
to flash rust so there’s not really a one of the other thing it’s very
subjective it’s a great question yes epoxy is a
great tool to utilize you’re doing when you’re doing all this type of repair but the way i like to use it best is
when i get my car black back from media blast whether I’ve done it or farmed it
out I epoxy the crap out of all of it and
then I get to choose when I want to work on it I’m not panicking hoping the
panels on flash rust so it’s a great tool if you’re doing a small spot repair like this I don’t know do we need to
epoxy and maybe it’s it’s not really knew enough to have a whole lot of
galvanized on it but it does so so spot repairs no big jobs yes hope that makes sense oh okay great i’m matt has got back with me matt is is
a technical guru at eastwood and these seas fielding questions and stuff working with me here I talked about the
application window on epoxy there’s a five day window from the time
that you spray your poxy down it remains glue for five days and allows you to put
fillers on top of it without sanding that’s a beautiful thing so you can prep
your panels and then you can spray epoxy five days five days you can put fillers
on and you’re going to have a superior bond on top of that epoxy then you would
if you were just hanging on aggressive sand scratches after that then you have to braid it
again and either reapply the epoxy buy yourself another five days or
scratch it down through with 36 and and just start the repair from the metal up
so great question and thank you for that tip map we’ve got another one ok right ok the question is if you have a seam
that utilized seam sealer from the factory and you want to do a custom
trick and you want to fill that seemed what are the procedures with doing that
though the thing not to do is wipe it with aluminum or wipe it with Short
Strand filler and just hope because those seams are there not only for the
assembly process but also to accommodate the the Flex eNOS of these vehicles
especially unibody vehicle can look over here what we’re talking about is this this seam right here if I want this is a
cool custom effect i want to smooth that this is actually removable panel so what
I would do would be to remove that prep it all but if it’s not removable if the
quarter panel is on there like a the back of the mustang I did this on jaded basically I prepped
and I feel welded it some people use tag that’s a good TIG
welder I particularly preferred mig welding it’s just a medium that I’m most
comfortable with but i would make well this I would dress it down I wood metal
finish the best I could then I would come back since it doesn’t need to be
flexible anymore ever I’ve eliminated that capacity from this particular joint I’m going to use my fiberglass Short
Strand and we give myself that waterproof barrier and then come back
over top of that once i shaped and contoured with the premium filler than
the glazing putty then my poly and then finally and
possibly a 2k after that but essentially well the same fiberglass fillers and
then you can start your surfacing so that’s that’s a great question and we
appreciate that ok this is dry here it’s smoking a little bit it’s
still smoke it so I’m going to take another wife down
with the aerosol injector cleaner and again chassis clean works great for this
as well and I’m wiping the top off I can still see a little bit of
weirdness there that just sets it up and get it keeps my paper and gives me a
longer life in my paper and I’m just going to do one end of this but you can
see how nicely this stuff feathers out and how easily it powders we’re just going to do one end of this
and matter there there any other questions in queue yeah ok ok that’s a great question the question
is do you need to to resend or ria braid the metal after media blasting before
you either go with fillers or epoxy and that’s a loaded question it depends what
your media black or you want your blast media is if you’re using aluminum oxide god forbid using black beauty on a car
but that’s that’s an obsidian black stuff very very aggressive it’s profiling the metal meeting pitting
it meaning scratching it is profiling the middle enough to where you don’t
need any further abrasion however if your soda blasting if you’re
using or urea-formaldehyde which those two or even dry is dry ice is a very
popular blast me anymore you do you do need to re-establish a
scratch pattern or a tooth or a profile on that metal if your blast media is heavy you don’t
you’ve already got abrasion if your blast media is very kind to the
surface and doesn’t profile it yes absolutely you need to reintroduce
some sort of a tooth to facilitate the bond of whatever you’re putting on top
of it so another great question thanks man now on that edge I’m sorry go ahead ok one more . now we
got another question in queue i’m down to 180 here now like I said
there’s a nice milky edge there come down to 180 which is going to give
me the ability to both finalize my shape
but also to feather out and set myself up for primer surfacer I haven’t paid
much attention back here but it’s kind of blocking out on its own and man alive
that feels nice so again this is showing you the steps
the stage is where you can step out for your different types of filler and a
little more handiwork here and i’m going to call this guy done and I probably
guide coat again but now you can let your primer surfacer is take over and do
that’s that final stage of being able to to create the surface that you want so
Matt had another question yeah

65 thoughts on “How To Apply Body Filler – Mixing, Spreading, Sanding & Tips – Part 2 of 3 – Kevin Tetz at Eastwood

  1. Don't forget to Subscribe to our YouTube Channel to get all of our great How-To videos!  Are YOU an Eastwood Guy?

  2. Are YOU an Eastwood Guy?  Check out this video from Eastwood to find out:  Little Kid with a Sawzall – Cutting a Cake – Are You an Eastwood Guy?

  3. Question can you wet sand  the bondo? one of the prepper in my shop wet sand the body filler often. n i thought bondo absorbs water like a sponge.

  4. I have a 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix. Rusted over,  where I sanded smooth,  years ago. I'm going to paint it myself. How can I get rid if the rust and go back to where it was prepared d to be primed. Do you have any shows showing prepping after rusting?

  5. P. S. . Should I use sand my sand blasting gun on the rust? Great series of how to, by you guys. I will be clicking in from now on. Thanks for the great things you guys do. Please keep up the great work.!

  6. Hi, this is Tric. My old 64, G.P's., hood, trunk, and top is just  – guess,  you call it –   flash rusted. It's not eat through, – just rusted from where I sanded it years ago. I sanded it perfectly, but cash stopped any further painting of the old car. My question is – should I use chemicals,  to remove the rust, or do you guys think I should sand it back down to the bare metal again by hand, as I did in the past? I will be looking into Eastwood suggestions for help also.

  7. He is so right about wearing protective gear, and proper ventilation. I built a paint booth to paint my old 64 GP.. I didn't have any ventilation ; I almost gas  myself to death. I was dizzy,  from no ventilation. So take care.

  8. Subscribed. This info will be help on my upcoming mustang project. Replacement inner fender panels and fill in some holes from EFI system. Any pointers as to doing the tight areas under the hood of a foxbody mustang?

  9. Thanks Kevin, lots of valuable knowledge for a 'greenhorn' like me, I am burning my food on the grill because I can't pull away from this broadcast !!!  John

  10. I am thankful for this channel.. I am going to sand back to the original primer.. should I put a epoxy primer on the entire panel before fixing dents, or just go to metal in the dents and epoxy primer the metal before filling dents?

  11. You fucked up the work you sanded to soon!!!! you needed to use a chees grader and or a wood raff file first and wait longer before sanding. To speed up your work just add more cream hardener then you did and you will be good to go. All this so called new world stuff is very much an over kill one don't need what the new world is pushing on use to do it the right way the first time. I have been doing body work, airbrushing & custom painting longer then your company has been open. I stared in1960 from my Ma & Dads back yard before I went on to start my two pro shops. "CLASSIC AUTO WORKS" and "EAST-SIDE CHOPPERS".

  12. Its a bit harsh ROBERT CAMMARATA, its only a demo. This stuff is fine for the DIY man but he would have to use dust extraction in our country. Im not sure about 36 grit for fuck's sake lol we start with 80-120 and finish with either 120 or 180. (Depending on how fussy your painter is) but if I sent that into my painters they would have a purple fit. Also no way would that come down to a fine finish in 2 swipes unless you are fortunate. Its ok Kevin but its draconian to me for sure. Solvent cleaning the top layer. Dust it up man, it'll sand ok.

  13. what other common solvents can be used to get that stickiness off the filler before sanding? could denatured alcohol work okay?

  14. Kevin is great and Im sure the Eastwood co is a reliable brand but Id never use 36 for prepping, especially on a car thats going to receive base coat application.

  15. I want to know how I should sand two panels on my car to get the sides of my car as smooth as possible… I have a mustang and I'm unsure if I should sand over the fender and door at the same time or focus only on the door, then the fender…

  16. i like the way you show us the tricks. my weakest is body work the paint job is only as good as the body work thank you and eastwood

  17. went way to far down with the 36 grit… now you got raw medal around it…. no matter what you do you gotta fill all that in

  18. When your mixing body filler with the hardener, you not only want to mix it good, but good and fast! After that you need to cover the entire area you just sanded down to bare metal. It's important just to get the filler on there first and then you can work on making it look neat and smooth.

  19. Body filler sticks best to 36 grit sand paper scratches. 80 grit is not good enough. This is what I've learned first through teachings of men that have done this for over 30-50+ years and plus my own personal experience. Another important thing is that "professionally"… body filler should only be 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch thick. So try to work the dent out as much as possible, via stud gun, hammer dolly, etc.

  20. Kevin you keep saying cardboard when referring to a mixing board!! You should know better than using cardboard for a filler mixer as the cardboard sucks out needed resins from your filler and hardner!!

  21. I've always used the Evercoat Lite Weight. It hasn't failed on me yet. Main thing, and I hate to sound redundant, but keep body filler as minimal as possible. A 16th- 8th of an inch thick. Use the blower to expose the "pin holes". Repeat as necessary and then apply the icing.

  22. It has been a few years ago, but my auto body instructor had planned to show the class I graduated from some of Kevin Tetz videos! My auto body instructor has been in this field for 25+ years. Kevin Tetz really has some great videos and I enjoy them. When he says a paint pattern should look like a "football" shape (somewhat)… he is right. It takes experience to get the right air pressure and then the speed of moving the paint gun, and how you overlap. Many instructors do not teach that. I know with painting a vehicle, you have to go faster than primer. If not, there will be "orange peel" like a mofo! Then you need to get your distance correct from the tip of your spray gun to the object you are painting. Main thing is distance, shape, and speed once you get your paint mixed correctly. I'm not a know it all! God knows I have messed up on painting. I'm just telling you guys some stuff that you probably won't hear on most videos.

  23. Is there any difference between red and blue cream hardener for the filler other than just the color? Any reason to use one over the other?

  24. at 6.52 when feeling the surface…he looks away which instantly bring "touch" into it…fantastic

  25. Well I hate to disagree with you about the gloves I put on rubber gloves I can't feel anything in my fingers and I can't pick anything up or annually I have to use my bare hands but I guess for that so you don't get the oil on it I'd have to get used to doing it with gloves on

  26. Great video ,Why do you use the glazing putty on something You already filled & why dont I see that many people using it Is there a specific application for its use

  27. Ive Already epoxy car. Do i have to take to bare metal to use filler? Or can i just scuff epoxy?

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