Flux-Cored Welding Tips and Techniques

Flux-Cored Welding Tips and Techniques

In certain situations such as welding
outdoors, you may find that conditions prevent you from using an external
shielding gas. When this occurs it may be necessary to use the flux core arc
welding process with self-shielding wires. There are two main types of flux
core wire. Flux core wires that do not require external shielding gas and flux
core wires that require external shielding gas. Consult with your local
welding distributor to determine what type of flux core wire is best for your
application. You should be aware that this process will create more smoke and
spatter than MIG welding with solid wire. With some types of flux core wire, you
may need to switch the polarity of the weld circuit. Consult your wire
manufacturer to see what polarity is right for your wire. Consult your manual
for the correct procedure to change polarity of the weld circuit. For this
example, we will use a wire that does not require shielding gas. This wire requires
the machine to be set to straight polarity, which is DC electrode negative.
For straight polarity, the cable from the work lead is connected to the positive
stud. And, the cable from the drive motor assembly is connected to the negative
stud. Since shielding gas is not required, you
should turn off the gas. You may opt to remove the nozzle as well. If your
voltage is set too high, it will be difficult to remove the slag. When set
correctly, you should easily brush the slag from the weld. Make sure you wear
safety glasses during this procedure.

28 thoughts on “Flux-Cored Welding Tips and Techniques

  1. great set of videos brother, good visuals, clear voice… i give these a 9/10(coulda been a 10, lacked a bit of info though)

    do the same for stick and tig and you're my best friend 🙂

  2. smellycatpoop, I dont know what your setup was but I have been using flux core almost exclusively for years now and I have been nothing but happy with it.

  3. like he said on the vid you can not use gas in places with violate air such as out side that is the hole point of flux-core

  4. Argon regulator……$150 (one time expense)
    bottle of low cost Ar+20%CO2 shield gas……$20
    30lb. spool of low-cost E71t-1 dual shield wire……$30
    cardboard wind shield w/ duct tape…….5 cents

    Making welds that are 100% stronger, tougher, faster, cheaper, far better looking, and lower-spatter. in other words, better in every possible way ……….priceless!

    Note that a 30lb spool of that "self-shielded" garbage costs $75-$120. Still think you're saving time and money?

  5. @farmboy30117 Some machines have the instructions printed right on the inside by the spool. Some have a switch whereas others have to be set up manually as in this vid.

  6. @TSorovanMHael i tried to go get argon bottle it was like 300 bucks where could i maybe find one online or somwhere for cheaper have regulator already cant find a bottle for cheap give me some ideas if you can, i bought this thing a week ago and it is like im trying to chase the wire and i put it on slow and burn it cant get it set right, it is hobart 140 but all i can do is spater or bead i can weld with stick alll day and i remember highschool using mig doin bend test is it welder or me thanx

  7. @coalandnuclear Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I forgot the bottle, that's a one-time expense too. doesn't really figure into the net cost of materials at the end of the day. I disagree about stick welding. The physics and chemistry that goes on with self-shielded FCAW are quite different from stick. For example In the former, wire manufacturers are forced to add excessive amounts of oxygen scavengers such as Si, Mn, and Al which in these amounts increase brittleness and impact sensitivity.

  8. @coalandnuclear all those dexoidizers simply aren't necessary in stick which by design the arc area is better protected from O2 in the air than self-shielded FCAW. Even under ideal conditions, it's difficult to get rid of porosity and worm-tracks with self-shielded FCAW. In normal steels, such excessive amounts Si, Mn, & Al would be considered detrimental impurities. Finally, penetration is a function of joint design, material thickness, travel speed, weld position, and most of all weld current.

  9. @coalandnuclear If your hard-wire MIG welds have poor fusion and/or penetration, usually it means you're not drawing enough current. One reason that dual-shield / self-shield penetrates better, is that elements in the flux such as potassium increase the conductivity of the arc, and increase the current vs. MIG. But the most common reason is that welders with MIG try to use "short circuit transfer" (a low-current process which lacks cleaning action), on material too thick to be appropriate.

  10. @patron4life1 Most weld gas suppliers will charge a deposit and a one-time fee to "rent" one of their cylinders. usually something like 150-200$ for 3-5 years. This covers upkeep on the cyl, which by law, needs to be tested and the valves rebuilt every couple years. Some of them will even refuse to fill cylinders they don't own for liability reasons. Anyway, you pay the rental, then you can take the cyl. back and refill it as often as you like and they only charge for the gas.

  11. look liek a lot of work to just switch the polarty I get a high current switch to do the switching saving time and ware and tare on the termals every time you have to take the nut off and then take it off. but I like the video good infor to learn

  12. I would rather use a stick welder with 7018 i find that is makes less soot and and a nicer looking weld bead

  13. I have a Millermatic 130 can I dual shield weld with it? I was wondering if you have a recommended wire and setting if it’s possible? I’ve been running regular steel wire .030 with c02. I’ve heard that the 110v welders don’t have enough power to dual shield and there’s not much info out there on my older 130 Millermatic.

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