Easy to Make Coffee Table with Lift Up Top

Easy to Make Coffee Table with Lift Up Top

Today’s show is sponsored by Microjig maker
of the gripper. Work safer. Work smarter. And Bora. Tools that perform. Hi, I’m David Picciuto and today I’m going
to show you how I made this coffee table out of walnut plywood, aluminum legs and this
cool lift top mechanism. Check it! We’ll start off by making the legs out of
3/4” aluminum tubing. We’ll first make the two side assemblies
and attach them with 4 long supports What I like about using aluminum is it’s
soft enough to cut with ordinary woodworking saw blades. I’ll cut all my pieces to length using my
miter saw. Then I’ll chamfer the edges to allow a channel
for the brazing material. Before brazing it’s very important that
the aluminum is clean. Clamp up the tubing and start heating the
aluminum with a propane torch. Aluminum will start to melt at 1200 degrees fahrenheit but
the brazing rod will melt at around 700 degrees. So we want to get the aluminum hot enough
to melt the rod without melting the tubing. Getting the tubing hot enough may take 4 to
5 minutes. You’ll know when it’s hot enough when the rod starts to melt on contact. Rub the brazing rod along the channel until
it’s filled in and finish it off with some more heat. If you don’t get the aluminum hot enough
the brazing rod will just clump up and not stick to the tubing. This takes some patience
and practice as my first few tries resulted in failures and ugly joints. You’ll want to repeat the process on all
4 sides of the tubing for a strong joint. Then I’ll sand, primer and paint my legs
flat black. The top assembly is a simple base, sides,
front and back, accent pieces and a top. I’m making the top assembly out of 3/4”
walnut plywood and since a full 4’ x 8’ sheet would never fit in my basement I need
to cut it up outside. Here I’m using the Bora Clamp Edge and Bora
Saw Plate which turns any circular saw into a track saw. This makes breaking down the large sheet of
plywood easy and gives me a perfect straight edge to work from. Once I get the pieces rough cut down to a
manageable size I can then finish everything up in my basement. I can use the clean edge
cut with the circular saw up against the fence and rip my panels to width. Crosscutting plywood with a combination blade
almost always results in tear out and I find the easiest way to prevent that is just cover
the plywood with painters tape. The tear out tends to happen more so on the
bottom side but I like to play it safe and cover both sides before running it through
the saw. I’ll then finish cutting up the fronts,
backs and sides. To cover up the exposed edges of the plywood
I have some 1/16th inch thick walnut that I’ll rip into 3/4 inch strips. You could
also use a 3/4 inch thick walnut board and rip thin strips off of that or even purchase
some pre-made walnut edge banding. Now I’ll just glue it down to the exposed
edges of the plywood and clamp it down with some painter tape. Once dry I’ll clean up the edges with a
flush trim saw, block plane and some sanding. On the bottom I’ll mark where to pieces
will be so I know where to dill the screw holes. On the top side I’ll use painters tape to
mark the inset. This will also protect the wood from glue squeeze out. I’ll then add some glue to the bottom of
the pieces and set them in place using the blue tape as reference. Let that sit and dry for a bit, flip it over
and add some screws for reinforcement. Glueing it before adding the screws allows for perfect
placement. I’ll then add some corner accents buy just
gluing and taping them in place. For the legs I’ll just drill holes and screw
it in place. I’m using 1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws because of their large head. For the Rockler lift mechanism I’ll just
set it inside and use the same screws to secure it in place. The easiest way I found to attach the top
is to set it in place and slowly lift it up and allow the mechanism to raise with it. Make sure the wood doesn’t slip, clamp it
down and screw it in place. As you can see here it has a very easy open
and close action. I’ll then take it all apart and and finish
the wood with boiled linseed oil and a few coats of polyurethane. Put it all back together, add some rubber
feet and some rubber bumpers and that’s it! I really liked how this turned out and will
be a great addition to our living room. The lift top can be used for dining in front of
the television as well as bringing my laptop to perfect height while sitting on the couch. If you have any questions please ask them
in the comments below. And be sure to visit my website for the companion article that
goes with this video. You’ll find more detailed instructions, links to all the supplies as
well as plans for this project. If this is your first time here please subscribe
as I put out all kinds of tutorial videos on woodworking, crafts and art. And if you
want to help support the show you can do so by becoming a Patreon member at the link below.
$1 a month is all I ask and that gets you advanced viewings as well as Patreon member
only videos. Thanks for watching! Stay passionate and make

29 thoughts on “Easy to Make Coffee Table with Lift Up Top

  1. have you ever had a allergenic reaction to linseed oil and that yellow wood glue ?

    i had glue in a cuticle(i thought i had gotten in all off my hands). then when i went to apply the linseed oil, some of which had gotten on my finger(in the cuticle). my finger swelled up to about x3 times it's normal thickness. scared the heck out of me. i ran into kitchen and placed finger in cold running water. i dug out the glue from cuticle and swelling in my finger went down immediately. to this day, my finger is still stiff and the very tip joint. AND now i wear full hand,eye and breathing gear.

  2. My first few tries resulted in ugly joints too. But after the first few joints, I no longer cared what they looked like 😉

  3. Would the brazing technique work and be strong enough to build a small carrying/ briefcase, trustworthy enough to hold 10-15lbs?

  4. Ya…$150 for the lift mechanism? Not even close to being a practice purchase. You can go to the store and buy a cheap lift top table for less and take its mech

  5. Hello I think this video is awesome and will be using it as a guide for building a sit and stand up desk. My only question is, is there a way to attach a lock to the hinge? So I could lock the desk in place when it reaches the standing height, that way if I bump into it, it won't come crashing down? I'm looking into using a gas strut to make it easier to lift and lower, I just can't figure out how I would make a handle locking mechanism. Similar to those varidesks, but on a bigger scale.

    Any help would be much appreciated! Even just names of the parts or what the technical term for this stuff would be great, I just don't know what it's called or what exactly to google to get information.

    Thank you for your time!

  6. The video was very well done. Nice product placement with the appropriate information. The table is pretty cool, too 🙂

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