Dryer Repair – Replacing the Thermal Fuse (LG Part # 6931EL3003D)

Dryer Repair – Replacing the Thermal Fuse (LG Part # 6931EL3003D)


It’s Steve. Today, we’d like to show you how to change
the thermal fuse on your dryer. It’s a really easy job. All we’re going to need is a #2 Phillips screwdriver
and maybe a pair of needle-nose pliers. Let me show you how we do it. To do this repair, the first thing we’ll need
to do is to disconnect power to the dryer. Simply unplug it, and next, you will need
some access to the back, so you may need to pull your driver forward and be careful not
to damage the vent.Our first step will be to remove the main top. Remove three screws that are located underneath
the lip at the back. We’ll just need to remove those. First of all, we need to remove the main top,
it’s held in place with three screws across the back underneath that lip. Simply remove those. Once we’ve removed the three retaining screws
at the back of the main top, we can then just pull it back a little bit, and then, lift
it off of the cabinet.With the main top removed, our next step will be to remove the control
panel or console and it’s held to the machine with two screws, one on either side. We remove those first. These screws are a little bit different than
the remainder of the screws, that we’ll be taking note, so keep them separate. Next, we’ll release the wire harness from
this connector on the top of the bolt kit. You separate those and pull it out through. Then across the back of that control panel
housing, there are three or four little tabs that clip onto metal bracket. We need to pry up with our hands on those
and pull back. Pull forward until you release them. There are also a couple of tabs on the bottom
and you just shift that slightly, lift up on it and then pull it out.To do this repair,
we also suggest that you remove this mounting panel on the front here. It’s held in place with one screw on either
side and then a short one down through the top on either side. We’ll go ahead and remove those next. These screws are a little shorter than the
rest of the mounting screws, so keep them separate. Before we can remove the control panel mounting
bracket, we need to remove four screws across the top of the front panel. With the control panel tilted down out the
way, we should move two on the right-hand side. You will have to hold the control panel just
to the side, enough to remove that screw, and then by holding the control panel out
the way, we can remove two on the left.Next, we’ll remove the remaining two screws that
secure that control panel mounting bracket to the cabinet. There’s two on the face, one on both sides. Pull the control panel away and remove the
one on the left. Now, next we’ll remove four more screws that
secure the top of the front panel to that mounting bracket. While supporting that control panel, we’ll
tilt the top of the mounting bracket away from the cabinet. Just lift up slightly and pull it away. You will note that there’s a hook on both
sides of that control panel mounting bracket that fit into the little vertical slots on
the cabinet.With that released, we can then disconnect the door switch harness. Just reach down in through the top and pull
the harness away from the switch. Set it completely off to the side. Next, we’ll remove the front panel. To do so, we’ll open the door up. We’re going to remove two screws located down
in the lint filter area. These two screws are specific to this location,
just keep them separate. As you remove the last screw, support that
front panel so that it doesn’t tilt forward on you. Then we could tilt that whole panel forward
and lift it off of the base. There are two clips on the bottom that holds
the bottom of the front panel in place. We’ll set that aside.Next, we’ll remove the
harness to the light bulb. Simply unplug it and then we’re going to remove
the bulkhead. In most models, it’s held in place with four
screws, one through each of these tabs on the sides and some models will have screws
into the blower housing as well. If your model has those, you’ll need to remove
those two screws. We’ll also need to disconnect the sensor harness
to the moisture sensor. If you press that locking tab, then separate
it, and then, go ahead and remove these screws. We can lift that bulkhead away from the cabinet. Just lift up on it, each of these tabs that
has a little t-shaped hook on it. You need to disengage those from the cabinet. Lift up slightly on the drum, and then pull
that housing away.With the front bulkhead removed, we can set that aside. If your existing belt is broken, we simply
just need to lift the drum completely out of the dryer and then we can install the new
belt. Our next step will be to remove the belt from
the idler and motor pulleys. We’re going to reach it on the right-hand
side. You will feel the belt as it comes down off
the bottom of the drum, then wraps around the idler pulley. We went through from the left side and you’ll
feel that same idler pulley. We’re going to push the pulley bracket to
the left, that will release the tension. Just roll the belt off of it. The belt is now free and we can lift the whole
drum assembly out through the front. We can use the belt to support the weight
and we can set that aside.Now with the drum out of the way, you can now access that thermal
fuse. We need to pull the wires off of it. If they’re on there tight, use your needle-nose
pliers. Grasp just the terminal and pull those off. Then using our Phillips screwdriver, we’re
going to remove the two mounting screws. Retain the screws, but discard the old thermal
fuse. We’ll position the new one in place on the
side of the heater housing. This might be a little bit of a trick. Then simply reinstall the retaining screws,
tighten them securely.Reinstall the wires and before we do that, we may inspect those
just to make sure there’s no signs of any arcing or corrosion, and if there is, we’ll
need to replace them with the proper type of terminal and make sure they fit on nice
and snug. If need be, crimp them with the needle-nose
pliers if they appear to be a little bit loose. Now we can start to reassemble the dryer. Using the belt to support the weight of the
drum, we’ll just lift whole assembly into the dryer and we’ll fit the back of that drum
onto the rear drum rollers.Then again, just make sure that that belt is groove side against
the drum.Next, we need to reinstall the belt onto the idler and motor pulleys. We’ll do that by reaching in on the right-hand
side and on the left side, locate the belt and again feel to make sure that we have no
twist in it and that we have the groove side facing the drum. Locate the idler pulley and then we’re going
to tilt that idler pulley to the left and we’re going to bring the belt across the top
of the idler pulley from the left side across the top of the idler pulley. Wrap it around it, back to the left and then
loop it over the motor pulley. That will put the groove side of the belt
into the motor pulley and the flat side of the belt onto the idler pulley.Then we’re
just going to rotate the drum a couple of rotations. You should see the blower wheel rotate at
the same time, that will help center the belt on the drum. Just keep an eye on it, make sure that stays
with the groove side against the drum. Double check, make sure it stay flat side
on the idler pulley and groove side on the motor pulley. Now we can put the front bulkhead back on.When
reinstalling the front bulkhead, we need to make sure that these little t-hooks properly
engage the openings in the lip of the cabinet at the front. We also have to make sure that the drum sits
firmly on the front drum rollers. We lift up on the drum as we position the
bulkhead. We need to make sure that that little t-shaped
hook fits into that slotted opening and this should drop down so that the screw holes line
up. We then replace the four screws. Remember to reconnect the sensor wire to the
harness, then push it infront that you can hear the locking tab engage.Again, we should
rotate that drum just to make sure that it’s fitted firmly around the front of the drum
and the belt is not bound up. We can go ahead and put the front panel back
on. When installing the front panel, we want to
make sure that we engage both of those tabs on the bottom of the frame, the slotted openings
on the bottom of the front panel. Just tilt it into position, then while supporting
it, open that door and then we’ll reinstall the two screws into the filter housing. Tighten those securely and then close the
door up.Next we’ll reconnect the wire harness to the light bulb. Make sure it’s firmly inserted, and then we’ll
pivot the mounting bracket and control panel housing down into position. You want to tuck the wire harness for the
door switch out first. Then we need to position that mounting bracket
in behind the lip of the front panel on both sides. There are also a couple of hooks on the side
of that mounting bracket that will fit in the slotted openings on the cabinet on either
side. Make sure they’re properly engaged and then
we’ll install the two screws through the top. The top screws are the two short ones. Tighten them both firmly.Next, we’ll put the
two side screws in for that mounting bracket with the control housing temporarily out of
the way. Next, the four screws across the top of the
front panel. Again, you will need to hold that control
panel housing out of the way while you put two screws on the left side into position. With all the screws tighten securely, next
we need to make sure that we reconnect the wire harness to the door switch. You’ll note that there is a groove on one
side of that connector that will face towards the drum. Make sure it’s fully inserted into the door
switch and then we can reposition the control panel.Let’s note there are a couple of tabs
on the bottom that will fit into these slots on the top of the front panel. The easiest method to put that control panel
back in position is to tilt it forward at the bottom, tuck the control panel into that
opening and then you can lift up, line up the slots on the bottom make sure it’s centered. Then we’ll just squeeze the top of it together
to engage the clips across the top. We’ll install the two retaining screws from
mounting bracket into the control panel housing. We’ll tuck the wire harness back into the
retaining clips. Now we can put the main top on.When installing
the main top, I want to make sure that we engage these two spots with the little plastic
stabs that protrude from the top of the cabinet. Line it up side to side properly, set it back
about an inch, gap between the back of the control housing and the top, and then, push
it forward and that should engage the top. Install the three retaining screws across
the back. We’re now ready to push the dryer back into
position, reconnect the power and our repair is complete.

15 thoughts on “Dryer Repair – Replacing the Thermal Fuse (LG Part # 6931EL3003D)

  1. I have a high efficiency LG dryer DLE4801W that has the controls at the back/top (the kind that doesn't have pedestals).  Would the procedure be basically the same?  I also read somewhere that some people can get to the thermal fuse through the vent hole in the back.

  2. I found out what was wrong with my LG dryer (model # DLE2050W) using repairclinic.com's videos but used your video to take apart and put back together my dryer. And it was easy with your thorough instructions! Thank you so much for posting this video. I repaired it for under $15 by myself. Ever so grateful.

  3. Was very helpful, I disassembled my LG gas dryer a couple weeks ago and it took 10 days to get the parts , so watching the video helped me to recall how to repair and put the appliance
    back together. Thank you.

  4. Thanks for the awesome movie. I don't consider myself handy, but you made this super easy to follow. And I just saved a boat load of money fixing it myself. Thank you!

  5. The Best dryer repair video yet. no unnecessary commentary common to too many how to videos , high quality video , and reminds me of my grandfather who was the Maytag man

  6. Steve does a great job showing all steps. Good clear video and audio. Accurate descriptions of all necessary steps to repair a dryer yourself!!

  7. GEEZ!!! I gotta take the whole thing to bits just to change the freaking fuse!? AAAAH GEEZ MAN! ………. yeah yeah yeah i get it, "it's not that hard". I have like 1.2 feet of work space and the thing has some extra drawer on the bottom, it is about 2 feet taller than this 1. But SERIOUSLY this looks like it is going to be a NIGHTMARE! 🙁

  8. Bill here…I just did this home project. I thought it was going to be the Heating Coils, but once I had it all apart, I was able to test the coil (good), but found that both of the Thermostat sensors were bad. I also found that one of the drum rollers was shot. So, about $35 later, and it's working great! The one thing I would have suggested, was to really clean everything while it's apart. Amazing how much doghair, dirt, and lint were all around the motor, coils, and inner workings.

  9. Outstanding. This was one of the most straight forward and comprehensible how-to videos I've ever used. It saved me much time and trouble!

  10. I cannot say enough good things about this video. Without it, I would not have had a clue as to how to repair my LG Tronn dryer. But this video is 100% accurate, and very simple to follow. Probably saved lots of $$$$ from not having to have a repair service come out.

    I did not know for certain that the thermal fuse was the reason it did not heat. So taking it apart was necessary. I removed the fuse, checked it with a volt meter and found that it was bad. So I ordered the replacement part feeling confident that was the right move. It was!

  11. Maybe it's just my dryer, but the "pull it back a little bit" part was very difficult. The top would not slide easily…had to pry it off.

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