Dryer Repair – Replacing the Disposable Thermal Fuse (Whirlpool Part #3390719)

Dryer Repair – Replacing the Disposable Thermal Fuse (Whirlpool Part #3390719)

Hi, it’s Steve from PartSelect. Today we’re
going to show you how to change the thermal fuse on your dryer. It’s a pretty easy job;
all we’re going to need is a Phillips screwdriver, a quarter inch nut driver, a putty knife,
a pair of needle nose pliers, and maybe a pair of wire strippers. Let me show you how
we do it. Since we’re going to be working around some
electrical circuits the first thing we need to do before we start is disconnect the power
to the dryer. If it has a cord on it, simply disconnect it from the socket; if it’s hard-wired
we’ll need to locate the breaker and turn that off. Next up will be to remove the two end caps,
simply lift up on the top, tilt them forward; they hook on the bottom with a small tab and
there’s two more on the top as well. So remove both of those. That will expose a couple of Phillips screws,
one on each side, that we can remove. Next we’ll rotate the console: pull it forward
than rotate it backwards. That will give us access to three quarter inch hex head screws
we need to remove. Next we’ll slide the main top forward, and
then lift it completely off of the dryer. Now the next step in this repair will be to
remove the lower access panel. With our putty knife we’ll just go in about three inches
on either side, depress the spring clip, and pop the front panel forward, and you can lift
it off the two hooks on the bottom, and set that aside. Now if your model has a door that lowers down
you’ll need to remove two springs. And then next we’ll remove the two quarter
inch hex head screws that are located at the bottom of the door panel. Now if your model of dryer has an auto-dry
feature you may need to remove this wire that goes to the sensor bars. And as well we’ll
remove the wires from the door switch. Some switches will have two wires on them, and
some will have three; so take note of the location of each of those. Now we’re ready to remove the front panel
and bulkhead assembly. Simply lift up a little bit, pull forward; you’ll probably have
to lift the drum a bit to disengage it from the front drum rollers. The next step will be to disengage the belt
from the idler pulley. The idler pulley is located directly behind the blower here. Simply
roll the belt off of the idler pulley, just pull the belt forward. You may need to pull
the idler arm to the left a bit to pull the tension off of it. Make sure it’s disengaged from the motor
pulley as well; now we can lift up on the drum to disengage the rear drum rollers, and
then pull it through the front of the cabinet. Now with the drum out of the way we have easy
access to that thermistor. So take note of the wire terminals; if there are quarter inch
terminals on that thermistor we’ll need to add the 3/16ths terminals to the wires
so it would be a matter of cutting those old terminals off, stripping back about a quarter
inch of wire, and crimping on the new terminals. Just remove them from the old thermistor. It’s held in place with two quarter inch
hex head screws. Lift it out. If there’s any damage to the
bottom of that thermistor check to make sure there’s nothing stuck down in that blower
housing that might be damaging it. Set the new one into place; replace the two
quarter inch hex head screws. Replace the two wires, make sure they fit tight. And then we’re ready to reassemble. Now we’re ready to reinstall the drum. Slide
that through the opening; make sure it’s engaging the rear drum rollers. Next we need to connect the belt to the motor
pulley and the idler pulley. So we’ll put some tension on the idler pulley spring by
pulling it to the left, lay the belt over top of the idler pulley, and then roll it
underneath the idler pulley and then over onto the motor pulley. Make sure it’s fitting
firmly on the motor pulley and centered up on the idler pulley. Now we’ll engage this portion of the blower
housing with the spring clip in front of the blower; we’ll have to lift up on the drum
a little bit to make sure it sits into the drum rollers. Make sure our springs are intact. Start by installing the two screws on the
top, and then the two screws across the bottom. Next we’ll reconnect the door springs if
yours is a tilt down door. And if you have an electronic dry model we need to reconnect
the wire to the sensor. And next the lower access panel. Make sure
the two slotted holes on the bottom engage the clips. And now the wires for the door switch. And
we’re ready to put the main top on. Now we’re ready to put the main top back
on. A couple of hooks at the front on either side that will engage this portion on the
top so we’ll need to line those up and slide the main top back; just lift up on each corner
to make sure we’ve engaged those tabs. We’ll reinstall the three quarter inch hex
head screws. Next we’ll rotate the console back into
position making sure that we engage these two hooks on the bottom of the end caps with
the slotted holes in the main top. Push it back into place. Install the two Phillips screws. Take care
not to over tighten these. Next we’ll reinstall the end caps; locate
the bottom tab and insert it into the slot, line it up and just snap it into place. Now we’re ready to reconnect the power,
and our repair is complete. Told you that was an easy job. Thanks for
watching, and good luck with your repair.

8 thoughts on “Dryer Repair – Replacing the Disposable Thermal Fuse (Whirlpool Part #3390719)

  1. Great step by step – except when I got to 3:49, the fuse is well enough exposed that it can be swapped out without removing the drum. Used a 1/4 socket drive on the far nut and a T-handle on the one just under the drum. Close quarters, but can be done! This video and a $4 part salvaged a 16-year old machine and saved a $100 service call.

  2. Thank you!   I thought the thermal fuse was blown but it turned out to be just a broken belt … there is a broken belt bypass which cuts power to the motor. Followed your instructions on opening the dryer … tested the thermal fuse, and start switch while it was disassembled. Then identified locations of other components and cleaned the interior.

  3. Great step by step instructions – felt great to diagnose the problem, order the part and get it install without a service tech!

  4. Add another thank you to the list.  Your DIY just saved me quite a bit of cash for either a Tech to R&R, or buying a new unit altogether.  Thirty minutes and $13, many thanks!

  5. Thank you – our 16 year-old Kenmore Elite dryer suddenly stopped heating yesterday. After some research into possible causes, I watched this video, took all components off except the drum, checked the fuse (which was blown) and eventually replaced with new fuse+thermostat. There was a lot of heavily packed lint in the front panel dryer air duct that connects to the blower wheel housing, so in a way this repair was fortunate to offer access for getting that clean. Very easy overall, as you said.

  6. Thank you so much for this video!!! We were at a total loss trying to figure out how to get to the thermal fuse and thought we were going to have to give up and call for a repair service. (Which was aggravating, knowing how cheap the thermal fuse is!) Found your video and ended up being able to fix it ourselves.

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