DIY Fume and Smoke Extractor

DIY Fume and Smoke Extractor

Hey everybody this is Doug with
Artfully Rogue and so I’ve got a big project coming up I’m gonna do a lot of
welding a lot of well that means a lot of smoke so in order to get rid of that
smoke I need to build an extractor fan that pulls the smoke out of my shop.
So as opposed to spending thousands on a high end smoke extractor. I’m gonna build
one from scratch using parts at my local hardware store. I started with an attic
fan, a 12 inch to 10 inch adapter, a 10 inch to 8 inch adapter, and an 8 inch to
6 inch adapter and a 25 feet of 6 inch flexible ducting and a 6 inch 90 and 5
foot of 6 inch solid duct. So I started by making the metal bracket that would
support the fan when mounted to the shop wall. This bracket attaches directly to
the fan (Music playing) the support bracket needed to swing into
place when in use and then swing out of the way so I could actually close the
roll-up door. Although the fan wasn’t real heavy I
made sure to add a few gussets to support the bracket and the weight that
it would take on. So now it’s ready for a test fit the fan diameter was 15 inches so I
needed to reduce the opening to 12 so I can attach the first reducer. Cutting the
tabs allows for better fit between the fan and the first reducer once I pushed all of these tabs down I
went ahead and added a few self tapping screws to hold it in place placing the reducer on top of the fan
and basically doing the same thing that I did to the reducer and then adding
some self-tapping screws. Once all the tabs were down and a few screws
installed then I added tape all around the seams to prevent any loss of airflow.
once that was done I was able to work on the next two adapters. This brought me
down to the six inches that would then get me to the flexible ducting. So this
is the actual fan and the reducers all set up in place and then this is a
better shot of the bracket that I made I had a hard time getting some shots
because of all the metal that was in there so now I’m making the bracket for the
five foot solid duct because I actually want this to twist left and right and to
be able to tilt up and down I made that funky little contraption
there and then I often use just parts that it had laying around in my shop –
to build the things that I do. So now trying to attach the solid ducting. I
think one more hand here would have been a bit helpful. Just adding some
self-tapping screws on the side to hold it in place. It’s not very heavy at all
and then I used some closed clamps to attach the flexible duct team to the
ninety. And now for the electrical side basic parts a couple of junction boxes
some plates a switch choose the Knockouts that you’re going to use I
always knock out all the Knockouts first so that they’re knocked out. And then you
want to make sure that you add the strain reliefs into the junction boxes.
The strain relief is designed to protect the cable and keep it from coming out of
the junction box. Here I actually have two different styles one is a quick fit
and the other one as you see here is a threaded type. Both of the same just
different styles. And then I had some cord left over from a tool that broke
years ago and now I’m finding new use for the cord. Run it through the box and
then pull up maybe about six or seven inches of that cord and then you want to
cut away that outer sheath and expose the wires that are inside of that sheath.
Next you want to cut your black wire or your hot line
pretty much is right in the middle and then with a pair of wire strippers you
want to be able to take off about three-quarters of an inch on each side
of that black line. Once you have the exposed wire go ahead and give the wire
a good twist so that all the wires stay together and then screw that down nice
and tight and you’ll do that to the other side basically that switch breaks
that current. Now I’m using a concrete drill to go into the block and I’m going
to use tapcon screws to go into the concrete block as well I mount the
junction box and then go ahead and put the switch on to the junction box I could have hardwired this into the
plug which is directly below this switch I just chose not to so I used the plug
that’s coming out of this switch and now I just plug it into the outlet that’s
directly below here so that provides my power. So this has a thermostat on it and
I don’t want to use the thermostat so I’m taking the de wires to going
directly to the fan and cutting everything else out putting that into
the new box and then wiring those together with the electrical cord that I
just ran through the switch and now the final step turn on the fan and you’re
going to hear this audio so you can see how loud it is Fan running it actually sounds a little louder here
in the video than it really is I was really surprised at how quiet it
was in the shop. So that was really a nice feature the fan was not loud. I will
probably add a protective shroud that way nothing gets in there. The duct team
is kind of temporary I want to see if I like it I might go to a solid tube the
entire way so that’s why that we’re just kind of hanging by ropes but let’s see
the test. And as you can see it sucks the smoke right into there. I was really
really pleased at how much this eliminated this smoke in my shop. Thank
you so much for taking the time to watch this video it is greatly appreciated.
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34 thoughts on “DIY Fume and Smoke Extractor

  1. It's too bad that welding up the extractor to protect you from welding fumes injured your lungs because you don't have the extractor built.

  2. I like your"s video because execution it"s simple and good working job.
    Everything as tools and parts possible buy at local store.
    In Your shop ain't. Its great and i like this !!
    Sorry for my english.

  3. Nice!

    You gotta invest in some mix gas brother. Drop that flux crap in the garbage. I’m telling you it’s the way to go.

  4. We've been looking forward to this since you talked about it on Instagram. Holy Smokes (pun intended), that thing works great!

  5. I already have about 80% of what you used in the video sitting on my basement floor to make something similar. I’m sort of glad I put this off. You have two ideas that I hadn’t exactly worked out. Or really had a different idea. The pivoting bracket and rigid tube. I have a 10×16 space to weld in and if I am MiG welding it will fill up with smoke if I don’t have a fan going and open doors. It’s 30 degrees right now. Guess what I don’t want open? Guess this will need to become a priority. How many CFMs is your fan? I have a few laying around that I think will work, but the only way to really know i suppose is to hook them up.

  6. Doug, wicked use of over the counter hardware. I was going to stop by the shop, unfortunately by the time I was buy your shop. It was like 2:30 am. I’ll try next time for a better time.

  7. Great Idea Doug..i have a neederman portable extraction unit that costs a fortune for filters. i think i will copying your idea and put one in the shop just like yours. Thanks for sharing this buddy 🙂

  8. It is probably undesirable to place the suction pipe so close to a welding torch that runs without a nozzle … Carbon dioxide (CO2) can blow off ..

  9. Thanks for this video. I have been thinking about extraction and this looks like it will work for me. I think I’ll add a remote control switch, but other than that, I like!!

  10. I’ve been planning one too. While it’s not really needed for TIG and most MIG, for flux core and the little bit of stick I do, it really is. I’ve been concerned about two possible problems.

    One is the hot particles vaporized in the welding fume. That consists of metallic compounds as well as compounds from the flux core, or stick coating. This could damage the motor, because they’re not designed for this much crap in the fume from our furnaces. So I plan on using a furnace filter in front of the fan. A furnace filter designed for oil, or even coal burning (shudder) heating systems should help, though not perfectly.

    The second is blowback from the open door. It seems that whatever I blow out comes back, at least, a lot of it, depending on which way the breeze is blowing.
    For the blowback problem, I plan to remove two panes from the window, which gives me almost the exact size opening I need. I’ll put a shutter on the outside. I found some nice furnace fans on eBay with speed controls for about $100, depending on size.

    Im not sure where you are, so some of these problems may not apply to you. But for me, in New York, it’s a problem. Good project. I’ve been waiting too long to do mine. Now, having watched you here, I’m motivated to get mine done.

  11. Got here from a electrical video because the orange tapes.
    But, maybe I am too late (3 months), you may want to add a funnel at the start of the suction tube (where the smoke enters).
    It will increase the area it covers.Both wide and distance from welding point.
    Well detailed video.

  12. I set up my shop ventilation using one of those duct fans about a year and a half ago. The problem I found is that the smoke and particulates that are sucked out also attack the fan bushings. The rig seized up after about one month. I rebuilt the fan and then had to jury rig a cover to protect the bushings. That lasted about one year and I got to rebuild the fan again. It finally died for good a few weeks ago. Hopefully you have a better experience. Cheers.

  13. Great work, I did the same thing, I would suggest you add a carbon filter to the end point, and if you decide to do that I would also suggest that you move your suction tube further from your desk to avoid burning the carbon filter.

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