Custom Stainless Steel Snorkel | Raised Air Intake – Range Rover P38

Custom Stainless Steel Snorkel | Raised Air Intake – Range Rover P38

G’day guys! Keithy here! Just thought I’d do up a quick vid – and THANK
YOU for the prompts for me to do this video. So today it’s going to be about the snorkel
on my P38 Range Rover. I’ll give you the run-down on what’s gone
into it to make it happen. How much it cost ($800 Australian – I didn’t
mention it in the video). And any issues that I’ve encountered while
running it. Hopefully you can do the same! So here it is in all its glory! P38 Range Rover Snorkel! Something that not a lot of people have done,
and done right. We’ll start in the air box. So you’ll see it’s not much different from
factory there. Bar a few little nips and tucks – obviously
the stainless has to come through and reduce down to this size for the job to be well done. It’s all sealed in there – you can’t see it
because I’ve got the cabling for my air spring valves that go over to here running through
there, so that’s a bit hard to see. What I will point out though, is that is the
drain. The water drain for this airbox. That’s a standard P38 drain and I highly recommend
you leave that in there! You’ll see that there’s been a bit of water
in here but it hasn’t come from wading. It’s actually come through the snorkel head,
I’ll explain that a bit better. You can see my airbox lid there, modified
a little bit for the air compressor intake – that’s been going really well by the way. So we’ll start from here, we’ve got a 90 degree
coming out of the airbox. Note the clearance between the body. And the fact that it runs pretty much along
this quarter panel line, level with where the bonnet joins the quarter panel. You can do it however you want obviously,
this is just a guide! Riv-nuts, straight through the panel there. Nothing special. A bit of rubber to stop it rubbing and vibration. On my previous version on my blue P38 Range
Rover, that was actually bolted down to these panel bolts to keep the snorkel secure. What it meant was that this had quite a long
length and potentially for flex, so you can see that’s quite rigid there. It’s secured quite nicely down through here. Now because of the shape of the bonnet you
can’t just hug the body, unfortunately, because as you go up, the bonnet has that weird angle
on the clam shell – you need to dodge that. So that’s why you’ve gotta stay away from
the body there. You can’t hug it. Also makes it easy to clean when you’ve gotta
wash the car. Nice little join there. Goes right up to the roof where again, it’s
riv-nutted to the roof. And you’ll see that there is nothing but daylight
all the way down. This trim panel here has to come of if you
ever change the windscreen in these things that panel has to come off. So, whatever you do, don’t go chucking nuts
and bolts through that little trim, because it’ll mean you’ve gotta take the snorkel off
every time you gotta change the windscreen. Up top you’ll see the head is angled back
towards the rear of the car a bit. Almost 45 degrees there. And the head is tapered back. Now this sock is to reduce the effect of rain
coming into the snorkel head. The taper, the 45 degree angle, towards the
rear of the car, it’s also to stop mud. You can see just here, there’s remnants of
mud that’s been flicked up when I’ve been 4wding. Now if it was facing straight back like that,
these tyres are gonna kick up some mud because they’ve got a fair bit of bloody tread on
them! And that mud is going to come up and go straight
into there, down into the airbox and wherever else it could block up in here, you know what
mud is like once it hardens. Now I’ve got a sock on here, a lot of you
are going “what the bloody hell have you got a sock on the end of your snorkel for you
dick head”? That’s to stop rain water from coming in. What I’ve found out on my previous P38 Range
Rover which was a 3″ stainless snorkel (this one is a 4″) is that when it’s torrential
rain, and I’m talking lots and lots of rain, the big lungs on the 4.6 sucks water straight
in there without problem, even if there’s a taper on the head. What I found, by putting a sock on there is
that the water hits the sock and runs down and drains off. Just one way to prevent getting water in there,
and that is the reason that you will see a little bit of dirty water in here, it’s because
it pelted down with rain and I’ve come home from a trip without the sock on and managed
to get enough water in this airbox that it has drenched the air filter and snuffed the
motor out. Luckily it didn’t suck it past here, but yeah
it was enough to make the engine stop running by itself without ingesting water, so I was
very thankful for that. I would highly recommend you keep that drain
in there if you do a snorkel. Seal everything else up – seal all the pipework
through here and make sure that’s dandy, because you don’t want to go through a water crossing
and fill this airbox up with water from the front of the car. You want that water if anywhere, to come through
the snorkel. I can tell you now that this doesn’t ingest
water through deep crossings, I’ve been up to window depth in multiple crossings and
opened the lid after the crossings and there’s been no water in there. At all. So that’s a bit of an insight as to what’s
gone on here. See if I can look in here for you. You probably won’t see anything. I can’t see anything! That’s it guys! It’s not the prettiest thing to look at, but
it’s a lot better looking than the Terrafirma one, I’ll tell you that! And it’s very functional, and having the 4″
it’s a lot quieter (air velocity noise) than what the 3″ was, so if you’re going to do
it, do it once and do it right, I recommend the 4″. So guys I just wanted to say thanks for pushing
me to get that done, there’s a few of you who’ve been asking what it’s all about, so
yeah now I’ve done that video I hope more of you get out and do it! I think they’re a great thing and the Terrafirma
snorkel (and no offense to Terrafirma because they do make some good products) but theirs
looks like shit! It look atrocious, and granted the staineless
one that’s on my P38 Range Rover isn’t the prettiest thing around, but it’s a darn site
better looking and it works, and it’s got a good volume, so if you’ve done engine swaps
– LS motor, things like that, then it’ll probably work well, there’s plenty of volume there,
even for turbocharged motors. I want to see a few more! If you guys have got any ideas for things
you want me to knock up a video on, I’ll get to it! Still working on the 2″ Suspension Lift one
– there’s one more thing I’ve got left to do before I’m happy to put up a video. Same with the tyre review, I’m just waiting
for the right time! As can see it’s lovely out there, but it’s
also 35 degrees, and about 90% humidity, so it’s quite hot to be taking the wheels off
my car right now! We’ll get there! Hopefully once I get some cool days. Thanks very much, and I’ll see you around
the traps! Happy New Year guys!

5 thoughts on “Custom Stainless Steel Snorkel | Raised Air Intake – Range Rover P38

  1. Nice vid mate might have to do this with mine….. do you do anything else to prepare for a water crossing ….asside from the water blind happy new year and safe driving

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