Cross Cut Sled w/ Finger Joint Jig Insert

Cross Cut Sled w/ Finger Joint Jig Insert


Man these old jigs take up a lot of space! Grrr, warped and unusable! Let’s make a new one. Some scrap plywood (from failed attempts at kerf bending) Cleaning up the edges. Some scrap 2×4’s Jointing the faces smooth. Squaring up the ends Routing a chamfer. This will let dust collect there and not affect the workpiece’s contact with the square face. Creating a low profile notch in the back fence. A nylon threaded insert (just in case, since it’ll be close to the saw blade) Drilling a hole for the threaded insert. Hammering in the insert. Some oak for the runners Cutting just proud of the width of the track. Sneaking up on the correct width for a perfect fit. Marking the correct height. Again sneaking up in the correct width for a perfect fit. All major parts ready! Runners in place. Using fence (know to be square with the blade) to line up the sled onto the runners. Super glue for an immediate connection. Could/should use wood glue if you’re not in a hurry. Predrilling, countersinking, and adding screws to fasten more securely. Test fit. Good! Adding the front fence Using T square against edge that was referenced against the fence (should be square) Not entirely important, the front fence will not be used to reference cuts off of. Predrilling, countersinking, and adding long screws. Cut through most of the way Use the cut line to get the back fence as square to it as possible. Predrilling, countersinking, and adding long screws. 5 Cut Test (link in the description). If not square, adjust as necessary. Once the fence is square, secure it down with lots of screws. Wax the bottom of the sled for good movement. Test run. Perfect! Crosscut sled function is good! Now lets make a finger joint module! Cutting some hard maple to act as the body of the module. This module will be able to slip into the slot that was cut into the bottom of the back fence. Marking the height of the notch. Slicing almost all the way through. Leaving a small lip on the back edge. This will hold the finger joint template and slip into the slot in the back fence. Cutting another slide of hard maple. The slice is exactly the size of the blade’s kerf. Cutting out a piece small enough to fit into the fence’s notch. Gluing the slice to the body of the module. Cutting scrap 2×4 for a safety block. Marking an arc that will let the block pivot. Cutting off the waste. Hogging out a recess that will let the finger joint module clear. Cutting a notch that can hold the finger joint module when not in use. Safety red Lining up with the blade’s path. Predrilling Overdrilling the block’s pivot Fastening with a long screw A home for the module A thin strip of maple Predrilling mounting holes Gluing on an offset strip Assembling the spring latch How it works With the recess exposed, you can now insert the finger joint module There is enough wiggle room to adjust the spacing as necessary Replace the safety block Secure the finger joint module with the eyebolt A test run Awkward angle to maneuver, but it’s a perfect fit! Resetting to the cross cut function Voila!

100 thoughts on “Cross Cut Sled w/ Finger Joint Jig Insert

  1. 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏…
    Amazing…thanks for sharing and…congratulations 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

  2. Thanks for sharing. Having limited space, I love a multi purpose jig or tool. Definitely making one soon, but with a bit wider finger maybe.?.

  3. Top job, comments reviewed and taken into consideration..Just need to convince WarOffice to let me invest in a proper table saw instead of the site saw I have now..!

  4. Awesome build. But when you attached the fence. You should’ve used the square on the other side. Since you know the table saw fence is square to the blade and that is what you used to set up the table, you don’t know that both sides are parallel to each other

  5. I'm a rookie at all of this crap, but I love watching builds come together. I wasn't sure what you were getting at, but the reveal at the end was well worth it. Excellent video…

  6. Nice video. Looks like you made the rails to thick and the board is not sitting flat on the table. I think you need to cut them thinner and put washers under when glueing them on.

  7. I see the doodad that keeps the red block from spinning clockwise. What keeps it from flopping around counter clockwise?

  8. Nicely done. I was trying to figure out how to make a sled with a box joint jig in it. Now I have seen it.

  9. Nice work BUT: The strips of wood which guide the board should – in my opinion – be 2 millimeters shortor/thinner than the depth of the table grooves. The board should slide on the table, not on the strips.Cheers.

  10. WoW lovin the Vid…………….. Perfect Just what i was looking for ….. watched it compleate as it was 'exactly what i was looking for' . kept me emmersed till end. Thank's again… M.G

  11. crazy….
    I almost broke my head trying to figure out what the little pieces you were doing, so you wrap up the video with a great demo.
    Brother, you're very ninja, congratulations.

  12. I saw the title and thought, "should I worry about the fact that there is a finger joint in the cross cut sled?" I try not let my cross cut sled get anywhere near my finger joints!

  13. Very nice piece! One of the things that caught my attention were the runners – as opposed to the majority, you made them slightly proud of the track, thus the sled only contacts the table with the runners. I guess you made it so to reduce drag on the surface – something I have to try and compare the results.

  14. I agree with Brian Smilde. I would also like to add that you used as inexpensive materials as possible. I too liked and subscribed.

  15. 🌟 🌟🌟🌟🌟's. I plan to build this..soon. Do you have an email address or website. I would like to ask you a few questions about my used table saw..The blade does not stand up to 90 degrees. Of course I have some workarounds..but they are not
    perfect. I have had to get rid of
    several table saw sleds. Subscribed.

  16. Excellent job … I am going to work it at small scale for another purpose that i have in mind and like Mr. Brian Smilde wrote I am totally agree with way you record your videos…No background music and no need of explanation because you show everything pretty clear… Keep it up 👍👍

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