6049-C Setup and Use

6049-C Setup and Use


Hi, I’m Kurt Lammon with Polyvance. Thank you for your purchase of the 6049-C
Nitro Fuzer Lite nitrogen plastic welder. This is a fully capable nitrogen welder for
the budget-minded shop. In order for us to reduce the cost of the
welder, we packed it and shipped it in two boxes, so there will be some assembly required. The welder itself comes in this box. Let’s take a look at what we get here. Inside the box you’ll see the welder itself,
which is fully assembled and ready to go. We’re going to install the welder onto the cart. This will be the part that we need to assemble. And inside this box you’ll also find your
nitrogen bottle regulator, the airless plastic element – airless plastic welder that goes into the front of the welder, power cord, the tips for the airless plastic welder, and a full selection of plastic welding rod – we have 13 different types of plastic welding rods that comes with the kit. The next step will be to assemble the welding cart. Okay, now let’s take a look inside the box
that contains the welder cart. And inside this cart you’ll find all of the
components necessary to build the cart. I’m not going to unload all of this right
now, but I did want to show you that there is a complete instruction booklet that shows
you exactly how to assemble the cart step-by-step. And it will be helpful to have some tools,
for example, a seven-sixteenth inch wrench with a speed driver and a Phillips head screw
driver for sure. But the assembly of the cart should take about
half an hour. Alright, now that we have the cart box unpacked, you’ll see that we have a total of 18 different components, including a bag of your nuts and
bolts and a bag for the bottle chains. We have the power strip, the air manifold,
and all the sheet metal parts, which are all made in USA – very high-quality stuff. We’re gonna follow the instructions on building
this cart using the nuts and bolts provided. The only thing that’s tricky is that you want
to make sure that you put the legs on the proper side. They look very similar or identical, but they
are mirror images. You can see these two holes are flipped, so
you want to make sure that these holes point toward the front of the cart when you assemble it. Now that we’ve finished assembly of the cart,
it’s time to install the welder onto the cart. And that is done by putting the welder up
and we’ll use these two sheet metal screws to secure the welder to the cart. So we want to put the cart on up on the shelf,
put the sheet metal screw through, and then you kind of line it up on the bottom, screw
it in by hand loosely until we get everything lined up. Put the second screw in, make sure they line
up with the hole in the bottom of the welder. There we go! And just kind of get everything lined up so it’s not in a bind, then we’ll use speed driver with a five-sixteenths. Okay, now that the welder is secure, it’s
time to hook up the plumbing to the welder. First we want to connect the air – the compressed
air – this is the manifold for the compressed air and the fitting here where you need to
connect this green tube from the fitting to the back of the welder to the air input. So we just insert that one end into the air
input, run it through the hole in the bottom of the shelf, and then we’re going to connect it to the air fitting on the back. The final plumbing task will be to install
the nitrogen bottle regulator to the nitrogen connection on the back of the welder. So we’ll run the green tubing up through the hole in the back here, up through the hole in the shelf, and then we will, again, insert it into the quick disconnect fitting on the back of the welder. Finally, now that the plumbing is connected,
we need to establish the electrical connection between the welder and the power strip, and
you’ll just insert the end of the power cord into the back of the welder, the other end in the power strip, and we’re done. The final step will be to install the airless
heating element. This is great for smoothing your nitrogen
plastic welds, and it’s also essential for repairing the urethane plastics – the old, yellow type bumpers – you’ll use the urethane welding rod with an airless welder to repair
that, not the nitrogen welder. The airless welder comes with two welding
tips: the flat tip with a point on the end, and also the one with the hole that feeds
through – it looks like a little foot. We’ll put this one in the toolbox back here,
and we’ll thread on the flat pointed tip; this will be the one you’ll use to smooth
your nitrogen plastic welds. Screw that in there. We’ll put this into the holster over here
and plug this into the front of the welder. Now we’re ready to use the plastic welder. The next step will be to install your shop’s
quick disconnect plug into the air manifold on front. Next, put a nitrogen bottle in the cradle on
back and secure it with the included chains. The 125 cubic foot bottle, which is about
three and a half feet tall, is a good compromise between size and ease of handling. Next, install the included nitrogen bottle regulator. Do not use any thread tape on the threads. This seals on the conical face of the tip,
not on the threads. Tighten the locknut securely. Back to the front of the welder, if you want
to install a whip hose for your air tools, then remove the plug in front of the air manifold
and install your hose. Polyvance sells a whip hose, part number 6040, which includes an inline air blower at the
tool end for convenience. When you’re ready to start your welder, chuck
up your shop’s compressed air supply. Inlet pressure can range anywhere from 50 to 125 psi. Be sure to use clean, dry compressed air. If any oil or water gets into the inner workings
of your nitrogen welder, it will damage the heating element and other components. Such damage would not be covered by warranty. Always establish your air and nitrogen flow
before turning on the power to your plastic welder. Although the welder does have a pressure safety
switch, it’s always good practice to get airflow through the welder before you turn on the heat. Note the manual valve for switching between
air and nitrogen. With the red handle pointed to the air side,
turn the flow valve until you have about 12 and a half liters per minute of flow indicated
by the flow meter. This is a good level for the air side. You shouldn’t have to adjust the air because
you won’t be using air to weld, rather it just keeps the heating element at a steady temperature. Now that you have the air side set up, it’s
time to set up the nitrogen side. Switch the valve to nitrogen. You’ll see the ball in the flow meter drop to zero. First we have to open the bottle valve to
get some nitrogen inlet pressure to the welder. Before you crack the bottle valve, loosen
the T-handle on the pressure regulator to prevent any pressure spike from damaging the regulator. Open the bottle valve. You can see this bottle has about 900 psi
remaining in it. Now turn the T-handle in to establish about
30 psi of nitrogen pressure to the welder. With the red valve pointing to the nitrogen
side, open the flow valve and float the silver ball about halfway between 10 and 15 liters per
minute. This is a good flow rate for your average bumper cover. If you are welding a very thin area, you can reduce
the flow to about 10 liters per minute. If you are welding something thicker, like
a heavy truck sidepanel, increase the flow to about 15 liters per minute. With Polyvance’s nitrogen welder, you get
full control of the welding process. Before we turn the power on, let’s make sure
we have flow on both the air and nitrogen sides. We can feel the flow coming from the tip,
and verify using the flow meter that there’s about twelve and a half liters of flow on
both the air and nitrogen sides. Plug in your power cord, make sure your power strip is on by looking at the lighted red switch on the power strip, and make sure your
welder is plugged into the power strip. Turn the power on to the welder with this
switch on the back of the welder. Note that the green “pressure safe” switch is glowing because we have sufficient airflow through the welder. Adjust the temperature of the nitrogen side
to match the plastic you’re working with and the nitrogen flow you plan to use. For polypropylene welding with the standard
flow setting of twelve and a half liters per minute, we will set the temperature at about six and a half. You will be able to feel the air start getting
hotter immediately. Allow about five minutes for the element to
warm up completely before use. Turn on the airless plastic welder to help
smooth out your plastic welds. Set the temperature at the “PP” setting on the dial. It will take about five minutes for the airless
welder to get up to the proper temperature. While your welder is warming up, select the
welding rod you want to use for the job. Select the rod to match the plastic you will
be welding. The kit comes with thirteen types and profiles
of welding rod. Since polypropylene is the most common type
of plastic you’ll be working with, the kit comes with six different profiles of polypropylene,
five of which are in the organizer case. After you finish welding and are ready to
shut off the welder, turn off the power first and let the air continue to run for about
five minutes to cool down the heating element. This will help to prolong the life of your
heating element. Also, shut the valve for the nitrogen bottle
to prevent any leakage. For some quick training on how to use the welder, scan the QR codes on the Training Videos info sheet with your smart phone. This will take you to a three minute video
on how to do the basic repair methods shown. The 6049-C does NOT come with free courtesy training, but Polyvance offers several paid training options. Please call 800-633-3047 or go to Polyvance.com to see all of the training options and other plastic repair and refinishing products
that Polyvance offers.

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