24K Gold Plating Stainless Steel – Brush Plating with Universal Plater Kit


Okay Rob, we’re going to talk about gold
plating stainless steel using the Universal Plater. Okay, as Terry said
we’re set up here with the Universal Plater. This is set up particularly for
doing stainless steel. So we have Electro Clean here, we have the Woods
Nickel Strike here, and then our 24k Brush Gold solution, the standard brush gold. We do have it set up with the larger conversion bit which goes from
this little eighth inch to a bigger, so that we can have the bigger sleeves the
purpose is to carry more solution. As we’re going to be doing a larger item
and also it just helps with doing electro clean and woods sometimes to
have a bigger sleeve carry more solution. So we have that on our Woods Nickel
Strike as well and then our gold we just have the standard quarter inch gold sleeve on a conversion bit. Over here we have the piece we’re going to be doing
which is a 316 stainless steel so polished stainless steel finish and this
is one of the hardest stainless steels to plate the 316. So if you can do this,
then you can pretty much do any steel and this is the way you would want to
treat any steel item that you’re going to be plating. Okay, so let’s just move
right ahead. We’re going to cover the concept of wetting out, that’s something
I really want to highlight. We call it wetting out and that is the
electro clean step. See if you squirt water on stainless steel it’s just like it’s a wax.. it’s like it’s a waxed car. The water just beads up and falls right off of it. This is a major problem. If you try and put gold straight on it
will not stick, it will not adhere, it’ll take forever to go on,
you shouldn’t even move forward as long as your stainless steel is doing this.
Now the electro clean step luckily fixes that. What kind of voltage should we
want to have for the electro clean? well let’s try, let’s start out at 6 volts. What do you think of that? Yeah, six or seven, yeah
you’re good. I’ll start out six. Okay, you’ve shown us that the water just runs right off. Yeah we’ll highlight that again. I’m going to go over the
wetting out. Okay, so we’ll start down here. We’ll do like a.. like a
four-inch section k? Okay. So we’re just going to start. You’ll see a voltage drop
on the machine maybe by a volt. That’s okay, that means that the currents flowing that’s actually a signal that
your.. your sleeve is soaked and that it’s working properly. Why don’t you hold still for a sec,shouldn’t there be some bubbling at the surface? yeah it’s kind of hard to see
with the woolie but yeah..yeah, you would see some bubbling. Okay. If you had a flat sleeve ah.. the voltage drop shows me that the.. so we dropped down from our six and now we’re down about five point one volts while your
electro cleaning, okay. Yeah and if you weren’t getting that drop then your
sleeve may not be soaked. Prior to putting the sleeve on I actually took it
over to a sink and ran it under running water and ringed it out in my fingers.
Just for the first time use. It really helps the sleeve to absorb the
solution. Okay, so we we are going to Electro clean. You kind of.. you’re okay to
overdo this. You know notice I’m not timing it. I’m just going over it. I want
to make sure that I’m getting everywhere very well, because anywhere that is got
that beading or breaking is not going, you may as well not even continue if you
have that. So let’s check it at this point. It’s probably been, i don’t know, half a minute- 45 seconds. We’re squirting the water on and notice, no longer is there
water breaks. Over here where we haven’t got, see that? It’s just a huge difference. Yeah, the water just falls right off, whereas over here, it stays wet. That’s why we call it wetting out and if on this piece, if I
were to have an area over here where it’s breaking, after a second, see even up
here on the top edge it is a little bit. But that may
just be because it’s sat for a second. I mean this looks pretty good but if there
were a question, you know I’m just going to go over it again for a second right
there. Why not? It doesn’t hurt. Let’s go over it a little bit more. I believe this is probably electro cleaned sufficiently at this point. So make sure you rinse off between steps, well. Now you’re rinsing with what kind of water? It’s distilled water. I recommend that for every step. You’re using like one of those squeeze bottles. Yeah just a squirt bottle. You can get them for a couple bucks. Okay, now we’re
going to just get that water off, see it still wet out. Now I’m going to immediately move on to the Woods Nickel Strike, still at six volts, and I’m going
to do about the bottom four inches here. I’m just going to quickly go over it for,
you know, to get everywhere just real quickly. Maybe 15 seconds. While you’re
doing that, I’m going to.. okay, so we’re getting about the same kind of voltage
drop with the Woods Nickel Strike as you did with the Electro Clean. Now should I expect to be able to see anything at this point? No, you shouldn’t see anything. If you’re seeing burning, hazing, anything like that you’re probably too high on
the voltage but you also don’t want to overdo this too much. Just a quick layer,
it applies a non-visible. You may be able to see a difference, probably not. And then after that step, you know, it doesn’t look as hydrophilic, which is odd,
but we’re going to move straight onto the gold plating now. Now what voltage
do we want to be out for the gold? We want to adjust our voltage down to let’s do four
and a half. 4.5, okay. Let’s see if the gold just..
should go right on and then one to three seconds, the area you’re plating
should begin turning gold. If it doesn’t, there’s some sort of issue. It shouldn’t
be taking 5-10 seconds to turn gold, okay. See we’ve already done that two square
inch area right there. I mean it just flies on and that’s what you want to see. It’s
a very consistent look. You’re not going to have splotchiness, you don’t want to see any of that. If you’re seeing that, that’s probably insufficient activation or
Electro Clean. You know, people can really have an issue with that and it’s almost
always that. Either the Electro Clean or activation. Now notice on the Electro Clean step, I Electro Cleaned about six inches. I came about halfway up
the strip to about here. Now I did the Woods a little bit less, about five
inches. Now I’m going to gold plate only about four inches and that’s to make
sure the area i’m gold plating has been fully activated. So this area now is..
looks beautiful. I hope you can see it good in the video there. It’s a very
uniform, nice layer of gold. Looks great! Tip it back and forth a little bit. Looks great! Roll it. Yeah! Okay. Toward me. That’s good, okay. Okay, so now the.. that area is gold-plated and you know that’s what you’re looking
for. Now to move on and to do.. if I were gonna do this whole piece, I would just
move on here. Electro Clean this section. Do another 5 inch-6 inch section and
then, you know, do not for a good minute. Then Woods Nickel Strike a 5 inch
section. Do that just for 20 30 seconds. You know, hold your piece so your Woods
isn’t running down into your gold too much. Try and always angle your drip
edge well. Then rinse it off and then we would go plate a four inch section and it
would look the same. You won’t see a line here. You may want to taper over
into the gold. There’s a half inch or so that you’ll have a uniform
plate. Those are the main points we wanted to cover in this video. If you have any questions, please comment or give us a call. But that’s plating stainless steel with Universal, with Electro Clean, Woods
Nickel Strike, and 24K standard Brush Gold. Thanks!

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