Hello! I don’t play hockey and it’s not about sports. But one of the attributes, namely the puck, I need today. Lost in a box with trash from the past. Air bag from the LIAZ-677 bus, bought a brand new one, of good enough quality. Next, I take the remains of a square pipe and cut off 100mm and 95mm. The segments are prepared and neatly located on the countertop, you can proceed to the next stage of manufacturing. Sheet metal 6mm, purchased once on metal reception, the condition is comparable to the life lived and time, the face of an old man is about 90 years old. I mark out circles in the amount of two pieces with ease I draw a caliper. The next is the plasma cutter, an irreplaceable thing on such parts. I cut one and then the second circles. Of course, it was not possible to cut perfectly evenly, and I cut it with a small allowance specially, in order to trim it later, we will clean it on a grinder tool. I clean the burnt surface with a metal brush. The second side is less damaged by corrosion, which is very important for the future adaptation. Pancakes are ready, in the same way I cleaned the second. What else had to be bought, and not done on my own, are two flanges. They have a special landing recess under the pillow. In the presence of a turning, such a need would not have been. But for now, as it is. I use the flange as a template for marking under the holes and head to the drilling machine. So far, only on one i drill a small diameter. And already this circle I will use further as a template for drilling the second part. Having put three welded points I reliably fixed them among themselves. After passing the same drill through all the holes – I change it to 10mm diameter and everything is new. I cut off the potholders and then clean the excess. Also from the remnants of 6mm I cut a small rectangle. In the place of contact with the circle on the part i take off chamfered for welding. I put on a mask! For some reason, a helmet on my head! Quickly i correct this mistake and start welding! The part is welded, after I clean the weld! What … battle ax? Where from? And the mace .. Helmet with horns? Guys, it’s the Vikings! A mobile game that has become the sponsor of today’s video, and with your permission, I would like to thank the developers! Vikings is a strategy in which everyone can prove himself in exciting battles. Build your kingdom, create clans, fight and get support from allies. That is why I still play the Vikings! Imagine, more than 20 million players from all over the world have already plunged into the harsh world of the Vikings, full of grandiose battles of thousands of armies in real time. 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Do not forget to watch the video to the end, as well as look for me in the game under the nickname TeraFox. Forward! Half an inch pipe, it is necessary to cut 180mm. Also a 16mm stud, which is tight, but still fits the inner diameter of the pipe. I decide to fix it by welding through the drilled holes in the pipe. Perhaps holes could be made smaller and this would not have affected the moment of fixation. While the part cools, I proceed to the following. Sheet in 10mm, i mark the center and draw the next smale circles with a caliper. Further along the knurled, to the drilling I make the next holes. I change the drill bit heavier, or rather 16 and drill a small diameter. Circles need to be cut, as well as last time I will give an allowance on the outer edge for subsequent processing. Now, while these parts are cooling, I proceed to the processing of the pipe with a stud. I knock down slag with a bit, which does not hold quite tight. For further processing, I thread the hairpin, on the sides of the washer with nuts, in a vice and tighten it tightly. I insert it into the patron, since the diameter allows and align the ends of the parts with the help of a grinder tool and petalled wheel. After grinding, i can remove and disassemble. Then I realized that the stud on which I was planning to tighten the nuts was a mistake, because they would simply be tightened when the wheels rotate. Instead of a hairpin, a regular round metal. I will drill through a single hole on each side, this will eliminate the nuts. Sheet metal deuce. Marking under 15 mm strips. These strips will play the role of limiters on the walls of pipe sections. But first they need to be prepared, noting the location of the holes, which I will subsequently drill. Welding on one side, I deform with a hammer, I adjoin the next one and so on in a circle. With the rest, I acted easier by holding the pipe in a vise. So turned out to be much more convenient. As the saying goes: “Clever thought comes after”. The first copy is ready, note there is no welding at the bottom of the strip – this is important. After the 50th pipe, I take 40 and 30. I repeat the exact same process on the outer walls. Now the remaining strip pusk into the manufacture of small corners. Also, these corners can be made from the same square pipe. To whom it is convenient. For each pipe size, a suitable corner size is accordingly. In the 60mm pipe, the limiter will only be inside. I position it on the very edge and then weld inside the gap between them, as well as weld the edge. With a petal circle for metal, i took everything unnecessary. I smoothed the seam inside the pipe with a file. So all the segments are processed and ready. A 60mm limiter is only inside. 50mm inside and out. And 30 mm has a stop only on the outside. A pipe with a stud should join the protruding part. In a simple way, you need to weld it to her. Nut 16, screwed onto a stud for ease of placement in the pipe, I weld inside the upper part. Now me need a bolt, not available, but there is a nut and a stud. Of these, I make a bolt. I bend the inch pipe a bit at the edge. Marker marked the part of the pipe that needs to be cut. The edge itself needs to be flattened, under the hammer the pipe lends itself easily. The opposite edge is to be prepared for welding pipe a half inch thread. This is if the billet are not available in a suitable size. Welded, cleaned and return to the opposite edge, which I weld above the hole in the round part. At this point, the seam should be airtight, which I tried to do. Pipe 20 * 20 two pieces of 120mm. They will need to be welded at the bottom of the assembly. And the final step will be the welding of the handle just below the existing thread. The handle is in place, now let’s still look at the principle of operation of the telescopic limiter. Like nested dolls. The difference is that when they are turned over, they will not fall out. Now I place this telescope on the base and weld it. Since the two pipes were slightly shorter than the others, I was on the one that 50 * 50 i welded the restriction plate, which did not allow the shorter ones to fall through. They to height restrictions. Let’s just say a little 10mm reinsurance. The second circle I carry under the drill for the hole is ultimately under 16mm. I decided to shorten the homemade bolt due to excessive length. I will only weld at the top. The bottom should be a snug fit and I will not break this moment by welding. The 10th round pipe was loaded into a pipe bending machine. I’m going to make a ring of small diameter. Due to restrictions on the ceiling, I go down to the floor. The machine is not designed for small diameters, so that’s all I squeezed out of it. I tried to reduce the diameter in a vice, but to no avail. I took a circle with a bolt and decided to repeat the form by welding the round timber, continuing to bend it. And if you suffer for a long time, something will turn out. As a result, we got such a ring. Another strip of metal number 2mm. Already having experience, I take the puck and also bend, but it is much easier than the previous round. Now this ring simply needs to be welded, given that the head of the bolt should be in the center. In the puck itself, I drill a hole and attach the same nut – i mark the boundary of the recess. Chisel bite into the rubber, cutting off all unnecessary. For fitting I stuck a nut, everything fits. The next part is ready. In general, all the details are ready and now it remains to paint them. Now all that is left is to collect. But something tells me the assembly will not work like clockwork, the reason is that the very rigid walls of the pneumatic ballon will bring surprises. And then my assumptions come true, the ring that you just need to put on one of the pillows decently resists. But as we know – if you suffer for a long time, something will work out. In the end, squeezing the pillow on both sides – everything worked out! In the end, squeezing the pillow on both sides – everything worked out! I slide the flange over the very stiff neck of the pillow. The neck is several times denser than the walls of the cylinder. It feels like there is a metal amplifier inside. If I had not seen such flanges on the finished jacks, I would be sure that the flange is definitely impossible to wear. Well, so far I have been trying unsuccessfully to realize my plan. After about 20 minutes, I finally realized that it was impossible to do it in two hands. I had to call for help my second half, and i regretted, that he had not done this before. Things started and very quickly we put on one flange and proceeded to the second. The result was not long in coming. Now the telescope from square pipes needs to be lubricated before assembly. In stock was lithol. I apply generously to the walls, so that everything would be on the ointment. I also decide to treat the spot of contact of the neck with the flange with lithol for a more tight connection. I screw the lid and can be bolted to the flange. Again, not everything is smooth. The thickness of the neck prevents two parts from freely connecting. I had to tighten the clamp and only then screw in the bolts. Absolutely the same thing at the bottom of the jack. Next wheels. The locking scheme is very simple. Washer and regular stud. This is quite enough. On the washer from the side of the recess, i chamfered with the expectation of a weld inside the ring. At the end of the pipe, it remains to screw the ball valve. I also seal with a rubber strip before screwing the fitting under the quick-release. The handle is the most common handle from a bicycle handlebar. And the assembly is complete. I check for performance. Everything is working. There are no sounds of air passage. Outwardly, no worse than those jack-screw in stores. According to the characteristics of the cylinder is designed for 0.7 MPa i.e. 6.9 atm and a maximum load of 2640kg. 360mm height limit. In the maximum folded state 170mm. Let’s check it in real conditions under the car. I lift it slowly because I don’t know what to expect. All the same, homemade after all. But we see that it was not worth worrying, everything is fine! Pneumo jack works perfectly. The height is decent. In no case do not neglect safety measures and additional stops under the bearing parts of the car during repairs while being under the machine. The pneumatic jack is quite popular at tire service because of the speed of lifting and durability. But even in my garage I will tell you to use such a thing is very nice. The purpose of this video is not about how to save money on this tool, but to show the manufacturing process and the principle of operation of the device from the inside. We all understand perfectly, I hope that it would be purely economically easier to go and buy a ready-made jack. I recommend subscribing to my channel and clicking the bell icon under the video so as not to miss further videos. Each of you, I think, will find something useful for yourself. Andrey was with you, bye!