Hello everyone! As promised, I will now show how to make this elbow. It is twisted as a cone. It is not a proper forged elbow, which would be whole and spherical. This one is easier to make, and the shape is nice at the end. The only difference is that this one has a riveted rondel, and I will be making it one-piece. The elbow will have three ribs, And such a nice rolling. First thing, we need to cut out a blank. Everything starts with a cutout. Here I have a finished cutout. I made a couple of test ones, which turned out to be not very successful. And by trial and error, I got the correct one. Here you can see that there’s an inside part which will be hidden under the other edge. Like so. Also you see the round cutout, because if you bring these lines together with a sharp angle, At the end this place always breaks, and it is hard to work with the cone which appears here. It is always sharp with a small crack. It is almost impossible to make it without the crack, When forged cold, the crack is small, or if I heat it up, there’s still a crack. Of course, I can weld it and it’s not a big deal, but I would like to make it with no welding. With no additional work. On this elbow as you can see the round hole will be closed with additional detail. This is justified when working with titanuim. It does not like this kind of work, to be bent, which is not always precise. And it will crack sooner than any type of steel. And I have no possible way to weld titanium. And no wish, as welding of titanium is quite harmful, as far as I know. This type of detail looks nice within this design, and is not hard to make. Now let’s go ahead and cut it. The steel type is 30hgsa, thickness 1.2 mm. If the elbow is made as a standard, in a shape of hemisphere, the minimal thickness is 1.5 mm. Because when stretched, the material becomes thinner. And in this case there will be no thinning, and is is pretty good. I have the centers marked on the cutout, And they should be drawn right away. The ruler, or the cutout, in this case, should be put and the edge of the marker line, not on the center, as the marker is quite thick. And such a shift is done so that the line will be as centered as possible, not on the side, 2-3 mm from the center. It is better to take the marker which makes a thinner line. It is not quite comfortable now. I will cut this part out with a chisel. The important part is to hit with caution, not to damage the anvil. The mark is seen on the other side. For the start of the work, this is enough. The edge is uneven and has some notching which can make a crack, but after the folding, this part will be easy to even out with an angle grinder. And now I would have to file it down, which is not quick, which is why I won’t do it. And now we start forging it evenly. As you can see, the pit here is now round, but oval. Which makes the shape more oval than spherical. This can be used to make such shapes, as a cone. I’m turning the detail while I forge it, and I’m putting the detail so that the lines would turn in this direction. This way the detail forms a come by itself. The side rib continues farther then the elbow line, and comes to the rondelle. This way the thin place here is strengthened. It is important to fixate this edges, so we can correct the shape without them moving. Now we can continue. The drilling is done on the upper part. And now this part will be like an example for the next one. To get the same distance, we draw a line approximately like this, So that when we put it together and don’t see the bottom part, we can see that the lines line up and this way we know that this is the correct spot. It is very important to attach the upper edges, so that we can correct the general geometry. And everything will stay in its place. You can see that the blank is quite crooked, but there is a decent resemblance of the elbow.